Water in Skincare: Toners, Serums, Essences and Gels

Dr. Tina Medor explores the vital role of water in skincare, its unique properties, and how it enhances ingredient effectiveness and skin health.

Key Takeaways

Water is a crucial carrier and enhancer of active ingredients in skincare.
Water-based products offer desirable textures and benefits for various skin types.
Preservation is essential in water-containing products to prevent microbial contamination.
Water’s unique properties make it indispensable beyond just being a solvent.
Effective skincare formulas must account for water evaporation and ingredient stability.

What the video covers

Water is the most common and misunderstood ingredient in skincare, serving as the main carrier for active ingredients.
Water's unique physical properties, such as hydrogen bonding and phase behavior, make it essential for life and skincare.
Water dissolves many key skincare actives like niacinamide, panthenol, caffeine, peptides, and botanical extracts.
Different types of water (purified, distilled, thermal, mineral) are used in formulations but labeled simply as 'aqua'.
Water-based formulas provide lightweight textures, fast absorption, and are beneficial for oily, inflamed, or rosacea-prone skin.
Water promotes microbiome health but also requires preservatives to prevent microbial growth in skincare products.
Water evaporates after application, so formulas must be designed to work post-evaporation for efficacy.
Toners, serums, essences, and gels differ mainly in water content and texture, impacting their function and skin interaction.
Water is not just a solvent but a connecting medium that enhances ingredient penetration and product performance.
Proper formulation, storage, and packaging are critical to maintaining the integrity of water-based skincare products.

Chapters

Why is water considered an important ingredient in skincare?

Water is the main carrier in skincare formulas, dissolving many active ingredients and enhancing their penetration into the skin. It also provides desirable textures and helps distribute ingredients evenly.

Does the presence of water in skincare products mean they are less effective or just diluted?

No, water is not just a diluent. It is essential for dissolving water-soluble actives and creating lightweight, fast-absorbing textures. Properly formulated water-based products can be highly effective.

What challenges does water present in skincare formulations?

Water promotes microbial growth, so preservatives are necessary to ensure product safety. Additionally, since water evaporates after application, formulas must be designed to remain effective post-evaporation.

Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown

Speaker A

Hello, I am Dr. Tina Medor, and welcome to the Skin We Live In podcast. Today, I want to talk about water. I know how it sounds. What can she say about water? What don't we know about water? Water in skincare is such a topic. But actually, water, yes, it is the most common ingredient in skincare. It is underestimated by so many people. It is the first ingredient on countless labels, and it's one of the most misunderstood ingredients in skincare. Water is the most familiar substance on planet Earth. There are three substances which are most powerful and most common on our planet. It's CO, it's hydrogen, and it is water itself. But at the same time, we forget how extraordinary water is. Physically, water is absolutely unique, and even now in the 21st century, not all abilities and qualities of water are properly scientifically explained.

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Molecules of water, they are tiny and very simple. Two molecules of hydrogen bonded with one molecule of oxygen, but they cling to each other via hydrogen bonds, which are very unusual, and they form this dynamic molecular network.

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That's why water can absorb an absolutely unusual amount of heat without rapidly changing temperature.

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That's why it behaves so differently. That's why it changes phases under different conditions, and it has such a strong surface tension. Then some insects or even small animals can run onto the water surface, and it's why it dissolves so many substances. Water is the best dissolvent and best solvent, even in skincare. And water is one of the, if not the one, best enhancers of active ingredient penetration into the skin. Also, very interesting that most liquids become denser as they freeze, and water does the opposite. When water freezes and transforms to the ice phase, ice expands and floats. Liquid water is densest at 4° Celsius. It forms an insulating layer on the skin surface, and this anomaly, which is as far as I know not clearly explained by science, helps to make aquatic life on planet Earth possible through the winter time. So water is not just the background of life. It is not just the background of skincare. Speaking about the role of water in life on planet Earth, it is an active participant.

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Water controls the shape of proteins. Water transports nutrients, and water cools our body through sweat. Water moderates the climate through the oceans and cloud formation, rains, and hurricanes. It provides the medium for all cellular chemistry in all living beings on planet Earth. So water is life, and when you see water in skincare, you should remember that water is unique. It is both a substance and a system. It is not only the substance itself. It's a connecting medium. It connects molecules. It connects cells. It connects organisms that form weather, climate, life itself.

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And in skincare, the water connects everything inside of skincare. When you see water, aqua, on the label, it means that you have life in the bottle.

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And it means that all other active ingredients are connected through the water in this product. So when I hear criticism like, "Oh my God, water in the first place of the formulation, this product is mostly water, I will not pay for the water," I just, you know, raise my eyebrows because for me it is a good sign, the water in the first place of the formula. And if you think that water-based formulas are just expensive splash and just used to dilute active ingredients to make the product more expensive for you and more profitable for the brand who produces this product,

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you should think twice because actually we don't use water to make the product less expensive. The water is not automatically a sign of a bad formula.

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Water makes most of the interaction between skincare ingredients and most of the interaction of skincare with your skin possible. It dissolves so many things.

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It dissolves glycerin. It helps to dissolve and connect niacinamide to the cells' target. Same for panthenol, for caffeine, resveratrol, azelaic acid, peptides, botanical extracts, and a lot of other water-soluble materials. We have a lot of them in skincare formulation. And

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also it gives the product the spread. It gives the product that texture, and it can create these lightweight textures that so many people prefer. Me personally, I love lightweight formulations. I don't like this heavy old-fashioned formula. So, we need water. But water also means challenge. First challenge, then, water is the life of planet Earth, and water helps all types of life.

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The water promotes the growth of microorganisms. It is really great for our microbiome, the skin microbiome, and all other types of microbiomes of the human body. They need some amount of free water to colonize the surface and

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to maintain the necessary balance. But at the same time, if you have water in the skincare formula, it means that all types of microorganisms can grow easily in this media. So we need a preservation system. If you are

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using water-based ingredients, they should get some preservatives, and it should be properly stored and properly protected. It should be very careful manufacturing, very appropriate packaging, and the formula should be formulated keeping in mind that after application on the skin, water will evaporate. It

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will not stay on the skin surface. It will not penetrate into the skin. So the formula should work after water evaporates. So let's see what water does in skincare. What is the difference between different types of skin products such as toners or essences

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and serums and gels and whatever, and what water-based skincare means for the skin, for the skin barrier, for skin microbiome, and for active longevity itself. Yes, it is difficult to call water an active ingredient. Despite me personally, I see water as an active

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ingredient. I think water is too precious to use it only as a dissolvent. But even if you don't see water as a precious treasure, anyway, you should understand that without water, many active ingredients cannot reach the

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skin. And without water, many skincare formulas simply cannot work. So when you see the word water or aqua in Latin at the top of the INCI list on the label, it normally means that the water

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is the main carrier in the formula. It's not an active ingredient, but it is a carrier for the rest of the ingredients, but also it can be different types of water. It can be purified water, can be deionized water, can be distilled water.

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It can be spring water or thermal water or floral water or alpine water, Zamzam water. But in the INCI list, you will see aqua water. That's it. Because it is standardized by this name to use in the international nomenclature of cosmetic

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substances. In a good formula, the water is not there to make volume. It is there to dissolve ingredients in the first place. It is there to distribute ingredients evenly, and it helps to create some specific types of the product.

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Water is especially important for ingredients which do not dissolve in oil. For example, glycerin, many sugars including oligosaccharides, including prebiotics because prebiotics, most prebiotics, they are small sugar molecules that can be different types of amino acids, minerals, salts,

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panthenol, niacinamide, certainly caffeine, resveratrol, azelaic acid, betaine, beta-glucans, many peptides. Despite the peptides behaving quite well in the oil phase, they still need water. I don't know if it is even possible to create a formula

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which will be water-free and based on peptides. I don't think it's possible, and most botanical extracts need water. So water-based formulas create this feeling which oil-based formulas cannot easily create: this freshness, this lightness, fast

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absorption. That's all about water. And it can be particularly useful in different conditions like if you live in hot, humid climates. It can be extremely useful for oily skin. It can be useful for inflamed skin, for skin with rosacea.

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using water-based ingredients, they should get some preservatives and it should be properly stored and properly protected. It should be very careful manufacturing, very appropriate packaging and the formula should be formulated keeping in mind then after application on the skin water will evaporate. it

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will not stay on the skin surface. It will not penetrate into the skin. So formula should work after water evaporated. So let's see what water does in the skinincare. What is the difference between different type of skin products such as toners or essences

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and serums and gels and whatever and what water-based skin care means for the skin, for the skin barrier, for skin microbiome and for active longevity itself. Yes, it is difficult to call water an active ingredient. Despite me personally, I see water as an active

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ingredient. I think water is too precious to use it only as a dissolvent. But even if you don't see the water as a precious treasure anyway, you should understand that without water, many active ingredients cannot reach out the

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skin. And without the water, many of skin care formula simply cannot work. So when you see the word water or aqua in Latin at the top of the inky list on the label, it normally means that the water

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it is the main carrier in the formula. It's not an active ingredient, but it is a carrier for the rest ingredients, but also it can be different types of the water. It can be purified water, can be deionized water, can be distilled water.

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It can be spring water or thermal water or floral water or alpin water, zamzam water. But in the inky list, you will see aqua water. That's it. Because it is standardized by this name to use in the international nomenclature of cosmetic

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substances. In a good formula, the water is not there to make volume. It is there to dissolve ingredients in the first place. It is there to distribute ingredients evenly and it help to create some specific types of the product.

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Water is especially important for ingredients which do not dissolve in the oil. For example, glycerin, many sugars including oligosaccharides, including prebiotics because prebiotics, most of prebiotics, they are small sugar molecules that can be different types of amino acids, minerals, salts,

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pantino, nice name it certainly caffeine, respirator, ionic acid, betaine, betaglucans, many peptides despite the peptides they behave quite well in the oil phase they still need water it is I don't know if it is even possible to create a formula

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which will be water free and based on peptides I don't think it's possible and most of botanical extract they need water so water-based formula create this feeling which oil based formula cannot easily create this freshness, this lightness, fast

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absorption. That's all about the water. And it can be particularly useful in different condition like if you live in the hot humid climates. It can be extremely useful for oily skin. It can be useful for inflamed and skin for skin with rosacea and

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suffering from different types of dermatosis. And also it found this use in this tendency to wire products on the skin. The rule is simple. First we apply water-based product and we finalize the skinare routine with oil based skin

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product. So serum goes first. Essence and emulsions are going. The water evaporates. So that means an formula should decide itself what happens next and it creates a lot of questions. humctants, how to put them in the formulation with the

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water. It binds the water. It helps to hold the water inside. But if the air is dry, the water starts evaporate and it really trouble the function of humctants. It can really paradoxically do the opposite. Dry off the skin. If

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it's not formulated properly, if none of film making substances which help to preserve the water in the skin are used.

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The question how you use water-based product what you use before applying water-based product what you using after does it contain enough of barrier supporting ingredients to be able to use it independently without combining it with some oil based

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film forming products. So water-based products are not so simple and they should be properly understood. What does it mean when you see different types of water in the skincare? For example, in med skincare, we use an alpine water

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because laboratory producing mother skin care is located in Switzerland next to the mountain. So, collecting alpine water during the springtime. Alpine water is rich in minerals and it has this natural soothing calming anti-inflammatory capacity. So, it can act as natural prebiotics. why it is so

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precious and also the last but not least the alpine water it's one of the few water sources which are not polluted with microplastics at least yet because they a glassier which are melting creating this alpine water source it can

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be mineral water or thermal water in the skin care the name of alpine water despite I love it to my heart it does not guarantee any performance Scientifically mineral profile of the water depends completely on the exact source or

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geology. Alpine water is not the same everywhere. There are many mountains, there are many glass years. So alpine water can be different in different mountains. So this beautiful mountain story can be meaningful for the storytelling and can be meaningful for

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sensory identity but it does not mean automatically then alpine water is equal to the sensitive skin care. Thermal and mineral water they are also very interesting and they are better standardized because they are different source of mineral and thermal water

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which are standardized for the drinking water and also for the use in the skincare. There are some very famous brand using the thermal water and mineral water like vishi or avian and with really great results. There are many scientific research about the use

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of vishy water for example for the treatment of attopic dermatitis in children and it's really beneficial for the skin health especially with compromised barrier and with some genetically predisposed immune conditions in the skin. It's have undeniably has this anti-inflammatory action.

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Different spring water, different sources has different mineral profiles. Some of them can be rich in magnesium.

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So they will be more calming. Some of them can be richer in selenium which is antioxidant can be more anti-inflammatory. It can be rich in silica in bicarbonates in sulfur compounds which provides with not so nice smell but can be anti-inflammatory

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as well as sulfur is anti-inflammatory components which actually until recently was used for the anti acne formulation.

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So in the dermatology certain thermal waters they are used and they are recommended for use by official guidelines but there still supportive ingredients that's not a miracle treatments and in the skin care when you see the water name on the surface each

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water has a story each water has a source and each water has what we call mineral signature and a good example it is the famous zamzam water zam and water has this both cultural respect and absolute cultural glory but in the same

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time some scientific restraint and a bit of skepticism. What is Zamzam water? Zamzam water it is a sacred water for Muslim community. It's drawn from the Zamzam wall in Mecca. It has very distinctive mineral composition. It contains unusually high level of

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magnesium calcium sodium chlorides and bicarbonate. So it's naturally salty and it's more mineral rich than most of the drinking water. So for the formulation perspective, it makes the zam zam water kind of difficult for included in the skinincare because water

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used in skin care must meet kind of strict quality, purity, microbiology, stability and compatibility requirement. When you have too much of minerals in the water, it can be tricky. It can be different to include it in the formulation, but the

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cultural meaning of the Zamzam water for the big community of people, it's really high. So you can see product based on the Zamzam water and they very popular especially in the Middle East in some country when Muslim population it's more

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prominent. Scientifically we cannot say then it is some claim behind the zam zam water. So it's more cultural but it is still one of the proof then the water can mean so much more than just the word water behind it. What types of product

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can be formulated with the water? We have four categories of products. There are toners, essences, serums and gel.

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Just to say it honestly that's no scientific definition of the difference between toners, essences and serum. We know what are gels chemically. It's specific type of the structure but toners essences and serums they are just names. So brands

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marketing experts can just use this name for some specific product just because they like it. It doesn't mean that toners has some definition which can be very different from the serum. But still traditionally there are some standards behind this

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name. So what it is toner. Toner is traditionally the most watery product. It's used after the cleansing and oldfashioned traditional toners were strongly aringent and contain significant amount of alcohol because they've been designed to remove the excess of the oil from the skin

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especially the mineral oil which was used to remove makeup and professional makeup in the movie industry. first owners being created by Max Factors alongside with his makeup cosmetic products and hundreds of years ago makeup especially movie makeup was very

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heavy. Today toners are completely different. Alcohol is not used in the skin care products anymore. Maybe in the very small amount as the functional ingredients for the product but not as an active ingredients like it was used until 21st century and the toner can be

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in the mist form created for hydration. It can be mild exfoliating liquid. It can be calming product. It can be some pH adjusting formula slightly acidifying the skin and also modern toners can contain a lot of ingredients. plants

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extract some antioxidants. It can contain even glycerin. It can contain betaglucan or something else. So the name toner tells you very little. The ingredient list tells you much more. And for me, thermal water in the spray, it's very similar to the toners. And actually

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I quite like it because different types of thermal mineral water sensor spray they can help to hydrate the skin better because many of minerals many of salts they have this water holding capacity.

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What is important then when you spray something water-based on your skin, it can be the mist, it can be the thermal water, if it contains only humctants or minerals, it will evaporate from your skin, especially if the air is dry

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around you. If it contains some polymers, some film making ingredients, it is safer. So, it can stay on your skin providing this moisturizing effect, providing this hydrating effect. But if you're using thermal mineral water and the spray, you should finish it. You

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should close it with some oil based product or film making oil-free products to get the better hydration. And it is never a good idea to spray thermal water on your face during the fight. First of all, speaking from all your neighbors,

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please do not do it. It can be unpleasant especially if your neighbor is sleeps in the same time and also the air in the air cabin airflight cabin is very dry except for very modern flight and they are not all around us. Uh not

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every flight has this system of the climate control and humidification of the air. So if you spray the thermal water on your skin during the flight, you should apply the moisturizer after spraying the water. But you can just

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apply the moisturizer before the fight and you will be fine. But spraying the thermal water before the moisturizer can improve the moisturizing effect. So it's kind of great combination especially when you're using some simple non-expensive moisturizer combined with

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a turbo water. It can act more efficiently. It can act better. What is an essence? Essence it is somewhere in between sits somewhere in between toner and serum. It often more concentrated than toner. It's more treatment focused.

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It's not simply hydrating products. It can get some targeted action like brightening essence or anti-aging essence. Sometimes you can see it the uh fluidity would be different. So they can feels like more oily like despite that very often that no oils in the essence

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but they can be some silicons and they became as a category of product they became very popular through their K beauty phenomenon through Korean beauty routines where skin care wearing is a part of rituals. They often contains not

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only the water but some antioxidants and active ingredients but also humctants, some fermented extract, maybe some prebiotics, probiotics, amino acid and hydrating polymers most of the time and sometimes a bit of silicons and layer multi-layering skinare routine versus

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simple three-step skinare routine like cleanser, serum, moisturizer or clean or cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen does not mean that one is better than another. Nine products are not automatically better than three products. It depends on the formulations. It depends of your skin

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needs. So it's nothing can be presumed in the skinincare like nothing can be presumed and 100% predicted in the life itself. What is serum? The category of serums they are generally designed to deliver more concentrated set of active ingredients. But the name

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serum itself does not guarantee high concentration some clinical evidence or superior performance. I call our product serum and we have two categories of serum antioxidant daily serums and active serum in this middle skinare range. Previously for the first 10 years

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of the brand existence we called serums only daily serum and the active care which now is called serum have been called concentrates and actually I like this name because that's means that they are more concentrated our active serum

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formerly concentrates they are most concentrated product in our range used in professional setting and bofacials but also in the home skincare Why we renamed it? Because when the product are presented online, it should be categorized by the category which can be

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read by Google search or by now artificial intelligence engines and concentrate been constantly hidden from all the search engines. So it was painful but we renamed it because you know sometimes you have no choice if you want to get results but for me there

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still my lovely concentrate and for me serum means higher concentration. Serum may be waterbased, can be oil based, can be emulsion, can be unhydro. So it can does not contain water. [snorts] But in the water-based serum, the water carry

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active ingredients and most of the time plays important role in the penetration of ingredients into the skin. And finally, the gel. The gel is a waterbased formula given structure by the some gel forming ingredients. They may be synthetic

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polymers. They may be natural polymer. Synthetic they are mostly uh carbomare or acryates. It can be sloven materials and cello is from the wood. It can be gum like acacia gum or zontangan gum. can be combination of different

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thickeners in the product. Gels can be transparent, they can be cloudy, they can be bouncy, they can be dense, they can be watery, they can feel fresh and light, they can feel thick and rich. So it's a large chemical category of

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waterbased product and gels are especially popular in the warm countries and there especially popular amongst male consumers because traditionally male consumers they prefer gel based and lightweight textures and gels also can be used as a waterbased serum. Serum can

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be gel chemically, essence can be gel chemically and even toner can be gel chemically if some thickener been used for the toner. So not each toner is a gel and not each gel is a toner but that they can be crossed

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between them and also gels that's the most popular form for the water base of mask especially sheet masks. Most of the sheet masks are embibed with specific gels. Why it is so important? We also in midair we also have the range of the

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mask. We have seven different sheet masks embibed each embibed with 27 ml of active gel. And for mask the most important things and the water is not only dissolvant it is a penetration enhancer safe easy and working perfectly

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penetration enhancer in the skin care. If you can increase the water gradient in the skin surface in the stratum cornum for 90 g on the cube cm and higher you will get the active penetration of water solvent ingredients

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in the deeper skin layers through stratum corn relatively easy. It is especially important for small molecules ingredients because you can really help them to penetrate not only in the deeper wire of the epidermis but they can travel to the dermis level to the

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deepest skin wires as well. So this water-based masks the water plays a very significant role in define the mask efficiency but also the quality of the water is very much defining for the formal efficiency. Obviously it's like you know everyone who love to cook knows

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then you can get the same ingredients using different kind of water and you will get different results. So the important point is that toner essence serum or gel are not levels of quality.

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That's not kind of official definition for some products. they're not standardized. So the different ways to organize water in the product and the efficiency of the product and the quality of the product will still depends on active ingredients on this

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product and the formula structure. So what is inside in the water-based product? Obviously it's much more than water. You will find in the water-based product first most important group humctants ingredients which acts as a water holders water magnets into the

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skin especially in the upper skin wires can be glycerin can be aloe vera leaf juice because it contains a lot of polyaccharides can be hyalonic acid which is highly hydrophilic and one of the most popular ingredients in the skin

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care right now but it can be some frightening name like sodium PCA, propanol, bulin glycol, it can be betim, it can be pentanol, it can be betaglucans, it can be inolines, it can be ura, it can be amino acids. Some of

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these ingredients they act as a natural prebiotics. For example, hyonic acid is natural prebiotics. Inoline, many of olosaccharides, aloe vera because they create this friendly environment on the skin surface which help to drive for healthy microbiome and to maintain the

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microbiome balance. Human they are not similar and not identical at all. For example, glycerin is very small and by the way very well studied, affordable, remarkably effective and uh uh glycerin you should not be afraid of glycerin in

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the skinincare formulation because sometimes people they ask like why you're using glycerin and propyline glycol in the expensive product because we don't have luxurine or golden glycol.

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That's why these ingredients they are amazing on the chemistry level and hyalonic acid it's a big molecules with a beautiful plumping and cautioning effect but it is not superior to glycerin it can be used differently so the formulation is always different and

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it doesn't make one ingredient better than another for example ura it's not expensive ingredient but it is very helpful for dry rough skin It's used for the feet skin care because it really help to fight the hypercarattosis.

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It can be used in the irritated damaged skin. So there a lot of ways to use humctants. And the second important group in the water-based ingredients you will always see them in the water-based product it is there are solvents. The

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main solvent in the product will be the water. But formulas can also contain some small amount of alcohol, propinadol, pentilen glycol, bioen glycol or some other solvents. These ingredients they help to dissolve active and help to assist the preservation

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system and also helps to product to penetrate into the skin more evenly and properly. So they affect the product efficiency as well. Another type of ingredients used in the water-based product they are structure builder because if you don't use any structure

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builders it will be the water with ingredients and it's very difficult to create the even distribution of ingredients in the water if it's not structured. If you add even the small amount of some gum or polymer, it become

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a serum and it become a gel act on the skin better. It influence how the product spreads and penetrates into the skin, how long it remains in the skin.

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It helped to keep water on the skin surface and actually it helps to make this product used as a more versatile product compared with the pure water-based toners. And finally a fourth group which is should be absolutely necessary in the

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water-based product. It is a preservation preservation support. Water is essential but water means that it makes microbial growth possible. So we need this different types of thoughtsful preservation. I promise to do some at least one episode about preservatives in

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the skinare and it preserves the product during the use. We have many categories of preservatives and skinincare and once again chemical names does not make some ingredients worse than something with natural names. the story it's more complicated and also it may sound

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contradictory but water does not mean hydration in the lasting way automatically because okay we wash our face and our body with water and it is undeniable then water evaporate from our skin and it doesn't hydrate our skin as active ingredients

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we still need to use some cosmetic product for hydrate our skin. But hydration in the skin care comes from the combination of the water, humctants, different types of active ingredients and also external condition which creates the environment for this product

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acts on your skin. So water gives a product the starting point. All the rest give the characteristic of the product.

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So if your skin is dehydrated, you still needs water and water-based product. But in the same time, very probably you need to wire it with oil based product as well or you should look for the water oil emulsion, some moisturizer

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which can play both. In your case, if your skin is not dehydrated severely, it's not severely dry, it can help. But if you have marked or severe dryness of the skin, you should wire the product water-based with oil based. And water is not a

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miracle. But without water, we cannot create the skin care. We cannot create any microbiome friendly skin care product because our microbiome needs water. So we can call water active longevity ingredient just because it's absolutely irreplaceable. Water is the

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life and water is the life in the skin care. So when you see the water and aqua on the skin label now you know that it means a lot for the skin care products and for the skin care quality. It is not

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just the first ingredients. It is the stage on which active and functional ingredients can perform delivering you the best results from the skin care.

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And in the next episode, I will try to bring water and oil together be and I'm planning to speak about creams and martians. Thank you so much for listening. If you still have questions about the water and the skin care,

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please leave comments wherever you are listening to this podcast. Please follow the skin we live in podcast. Follow our socials. Share this episode with your friends who can be interested in the skincare or who simply loves water and

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subscribe to our podcast to help a lot to develop more episodes. Thank you.

Topics:water in skincareskincare ingredientswater propertiestonersserumsessencesgelsskin microbiomeactive ingredient penetrationskincare formulation

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