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[music] You want healthy, glowing skin, but with all the products, trends, and conflicting [music] advice, it's hard to know what actually works. I understand.
Dr. Anna Kantser and Dr. Tina Medor discuss the science behind injectables and skincare, focusing on microbiome, ingredient penetration, and product efficacy.
Ask about this video. Answers come from its transcript only — with the timestamp, so you can check them.
Generated from the transcript and can be wrong — check the timestamp.
Key Takeaways
- Effective skincare depends on molecular size, formulation, and skin condition.
- The skin microbiome is crucial and should be supported, not destroyed, by cosmetics.
- Injectables and skincare complement each other for optimal skin health and aging.
- Marketing heavily influences skincare product prices, not just ingredient quality.
- Restoring skin barrier can reduce product penetration, affecting visible results.
What the video covers
- Introduction to the complexity of skincare and the importance of science-backed advice.
- Dr. Anna Kantser's background in aesthetic medicine and her clinic in London.
- Discussion on the golden age of injectables and their role in skin volume restoration and collagen stimulation.
- The significance of the skin microbiome and its impact on skincare formulations.
- Explanation of molecular size and ingredient penetration into the skin layers.
- Differences in skincare product pricing linked to formulation quality and marketing costs.
- How skin health affects the effectiveness of skincare and injectable treatments.
- The paradox of skincare efficacy during skin barrier restoration.
- Emerging trends in injectable peptides and precision medicine in aesthetics.
- Practical advice on SPF application and the realistic expectations from skincare and injectables.
Chapters
- 00:00Introduction to Skincare Challenges and Podcast Overview
- 03:43Importance of Skin Microbiome in Skincare
- 06:54Ingredient Penetration and Cosmetic Formulation
- 09:54Skin Health, Aging, and Skincare Efficacy
- 12:56Safety and Future of Injectable Peptides
- 19:28Proper SPF Application and Skincare Myths
- 22:22Marketing vs Science in Skincare Products
- 27:42Patient Expectations and Injectable Treatment Results
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
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I [music] am Dr. Tina Medor, a former cardiologist and specialist in skincare development and cosmetic [music] safety expert. I've spent years studying the science of skin. Welcome to Med Beauty podcast, where we uncover what really matters, break down the science,
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[music] and give you real expert-backed skincare advice. Whether you're looking to [music] achieve radiant, healthy skin, curious about anti-aging, or want to understand [music] what's really in your product, you are in the right place.
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Rooted in science and the truth about what your skin [music] actually needs. We'll have in-depth conversations with leading dermatologists, medical experts, and skincare [music] brand founders to bring you the latest innovations, evidence-based insights, and industry secrets that truly [music] make a
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difference. We are so happy you are here. So, let's go. Hello and welcome to the [music] Skin Relief podcast. I am Dr. Tina Med, and today I am in London and very happy to present to you Dr. Anna Cancer, the founder
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of Dr. Anna Aesthetics Clinic, one of the founding members of the Royal Society of Medicine aesthetic medicine sections, and a general practitioner with a special focus in dermatology and specialist in aesthetic medicine. I dare say that Dr. Anna is one of the
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people and doctors who represent the new generation of aesthetic medicine practitioners. Thank you so much for joining me and for inviting me to your beautiful London-based clinic. It's really a pleasure for me, and I wanted to talk about injectables in aesthetic
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medicine. Unprecedented. Yes, we are living in the golden age of injectables, where we can restore volume, stimulate collagen, and improve skin quality like never before. Many patients who spend thousands on Botox, skin boosters, fillers ask whether they really need
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skin care or is skin care just a marketing upsell. Today we will try to answer this question. And before answering this question, I wanted to ask you, Tina, why you are so passionate about skincare and what is the main focus of
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your cosmetic line? Thank you so much for this question because I understand that many people see me as an unusual doctor because I am not practicing aesthetic medicine like it is usual for aesthetic medicine, you know, injectables and laser treatments, quick fix, quick fix,
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quick fixes and let's say high-tech treatments of aesthetic medicine. I am specializing in topical applications, so skincare and at some point a dermatological application, and it was my focus since the very beginning. I started in the mid-90s,
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and my focus first and foremost is the skin microbiome since the very beginning or the start of the microbiome science and human microbiome project started in 2007. So I was absolutely fascinated by the whole idea and also new opportunities of
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peptides. Why, you know, we hear a lot about microbiome. Why microbiome and skin? Because actually skin and gut, there are two organs mostly researched and studied and repopulated.
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Yeah. Microbiome hosting surfaces, and I would not take a risk to say that they are most populated because just recently, a few years ago, we were thinking that the blood is sterile. Now we know it is not. We've been thinking that the brain
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is sterile or the womb is sterile. It is not sterile even during pregnancy. So there will be a lot of discoveries upcoming in the next years. So probably your cosmetic is more to support microbiome than to destroy it,
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and that's the beauty of the cosmetics that respect microbiome. I think then we should change the whole paradigm of skincare because if we have been seeing skin as an isolated organ, now we understand that the skin is part of the human body,
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and any kind of biological object on our planet, we are ecosystems. So it's, you know, I love to think about the microbiome as a two-way street because we have our microbiome, so we are a planet for our microbiome. But at the same time,
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we are a very small part of the microbiome of our planet Earth. We cannot separate us.
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We need microbiome. Microbiome needs us, and when we care about the skin, we should keep microbiome in mind because it is part of the skin. It is a living layer of the skin. And many of my patients ask, do skincare products really work
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and whether molecules can penetrate deep into the skin. That's another great question, and yes, skincare can really work, but there's a lot of skincare which is not. It depends very much on the formulation, on the vision of the formulator, and
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there are many factors which define the penetration of ingredients into the different skin layers. First, size matters. Everything which is smaller than 500 Dalton of molecular weight will penetrate into the skin easily. You cannot stop it.
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So the molecule to create this little molecule is so important. Retinol 140, glycolic acid 128. So they kind of hit on the top. They just go like a train into the deepest layer of the skin. Ionic acid is 6 million Dalton.
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So for all money on the planet Earth, it cannot penetrate. It's placed on the top.
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But also when we speak about ingredients with molecular weight slightly higher, like I would say up to probably 5,000 Dalton max, you can make them penetrate into the deeper layer going through stratum corneum using different types of enhancers. We have
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600s of them, right? So you can use different formulations, and it's what defines a good cosmetic chemist. That's my second question because many creams seem to contain similar ingredients, but the price differs. And why are expensive brands, let's say,
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why are they so expensive? Is it because of the technology of the cream creation? Obviously, some brands are just marketing, right? Especially, I'm sorry to say this now on the camera, the cameras, but I think that many of the influencers created brands. It is
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marketing because, you know, all this investment in Google advertisement and meta advertisement will take 90% of the cost of the product. And also officially, in the last year, the report of 2025 is louder, 52% of the cost of the product
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is the cost of marketing. And L'Oréal, same professional brand story can be different. I think it's important to tell your honest opinion, and even if it's upsetting for someone, I think we're here to discuss really the science
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behind the products. Why then some people have great results and some people don't? Sorry. Is it because they use some products in the right way and others don't? We have already discussed the quality of the different
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creams, that molecule matters. Formula matters because you can use great molecules, but formula created by an experienced cosmetic chemist can stay on the top of
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the skin just because it is not created with penetration in mind. And there is a whole line of science about penetration of ingredients into the skin, and quality of the skin matters. Paradoxically, when you have a client with very dry,
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thin, irritated skin, you can have great results from the very first days because the skin is over-permeable.
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And if you need something to penetrate deeper, it's always ready to take everything.
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Exactly. You put it on the skin, it just goes deeper into the skin. But when you restore the barrier, it becomes more difficult.
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So it is a paradox of skincare. It can work amazingly in the first weeks, but when you restore the healthy skin, care can be less efficient, less noticeable. I find it with injectables when people are coming with good
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quality skin and we do some treatments, they see less result compared to those who never done any treatments because their skin is responding with so many results and they can see the actual difference. I think that's also the
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factor of skin health itself and, you know, hallmarks of aging. Now we are speaking about 12 hallmarks of aging, which
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So 12 of them they can be very prominent in someone else's skin. For example if the person is aged exposed to the stress has some lifestyle habits which are not beneficial smoking some alcohol use.
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Yeah. and some choice of the food and diet. Yeah, it can. And you can have very healthy person who probably at the same age sleeps well, is physically active, using good skin care, eating well and not so much stressed. And once
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again, when the hallmarks of aging are not very active on the skin, the skin is regenerating better. And paradoxically, injectables materials can be resorbed faster.
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Yes. So, it's really a two-aged sword. Yes, that's true. Um, I want to ask you, what is wrong with retinol?
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You you know me. Yes. People see me as a uh retinol warrior. I'm not. I actually I love retinol.
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Retinol is one of the most researched ingredients in the cosmetic science. It is a great ingredient. The problem with retinol first it is systemic absorption which cannot be excluded because the molecule is very small. It's absolutely biologically identical to the human
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body. Vitamin A it's at a form. So our body can use it not for the skin only because retinoic acid what makes our body to renew not only the skin but our intestine and even our brain. So when
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you eat well, when you have the naturally high level of the vitamin A and you start to use topical applications with retinol, good quality of retinol, it can bring the risk of the overdos of vitamin A.
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Yeah, as we know vitamin A can be a throgenic uh component and it's not allowed to use in pregnancy if you are using for obvious reason strong retinal topically even. It's still a discussion about it because actually there are only
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eight cases will been formally recognized as retinal teriy so embryo harm but eight cases it is not zero not so me personally I think that we should be careful and also when retinol journey started in topical application in the 80s they we've been
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very limited in the choice of ingredient now we have a lot of ingredients we have self retinol like category. So you can replace retinol to avoid it. And me personally I think that retinol should stay in dermatology should be used
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safely under the medical control. But speaking about the skin care especially preventative skin care we can go safer.
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I have a recently a patient who was um chatting with a very famous beauty expert on the plane and he told he asked her tell me one thing one thing which I can do and which will give the excellent
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results she said very strong retinol the one that you get from the pharmacy use it once a week that's the best thing and when I heard that I thought probably your skin will be shocked when you apply it on the face and for a couple of
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months you'll be burned And you can achieve the same amazing results using either very low concentration of retinol or using amazing molecules like enzymes. I think many of your cosmetic brands uh cosmetic products they have so active components.
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Can you tell a bit more about the actually active components? First of all, if someone asks me what is the best thing to use for my skin, I will ask about their skin, right?
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Because it can be different target. Retinol can treat acne pigmentation. It can be used as an anti-aging ingredients and so on. But if you go deeper into the skin needs, if it is someone who is really worried about the skin aging, I
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will go probably first for microbiome rebalancing because now that's a lot we can do. There are different prebiotics, probiotics. So we can regrow useful and we can delegate big part of our work to this micrllora which is able to
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synthesize hyaluronic acid and to do a lot of things and to protect skin cells and so on. And another thing I will probably consider peptides also we have a lot of them and some remodeling peptides. What is the magic about
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peptides? I think they're everywhere now in uh but can you tell a bit more why peptides? What do they do? What is the magic magic of peptides? And they can be used as a language. They are messengers.
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With peptides, we can gently speak with every cells in our body. And obviously as a skin care expert, I'm speaking with the skin. But now peptides, it's kind of the new hope and the pharmarmacology.
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And look, GOP1 drugs peptides, weight loss drugs is peptides. Absolutely. You we just now we learn how to speak with the brain center to ask it do not eat too much. We can use peptides which is speaking only this
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overexpressed pigment cells which are already harmed by the old violet asking them to go back on the normal way of the melanin production and now we have about thousand of peptides so we have this dictionary I think it's
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a future of medicine as well there are many injectable peptides not yet approved it's UK yet I think it's developing extensively it's absolely absolutely transformed medicine. We are on the edge of the real precision medicine when many of conditions can be treated
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much safer, much more efficient without drastic side effects because peptides what are peptides? Chains of amino acids which used like a letters because you know you changed the uh sequel sequence of three letters in the word. It's a
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different different language. Yes. Same with peptides and now we can speak with our body and once the word is used am I know acid absorbed and used to build muscles yes in our body or vessels so it's everything genius is very easy um I want
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to ask you about pigmentation because you mentioned peptides for pigmentation I want to ask you some of my patients they apply religiously their SPF But the still they develop pigmentation. What do you think is the problem? I noticed I
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think on your website there are recommendations how to use skin care and one of the recommendations for was for SPF and I want to you to actually tell about this. We still don't have SPF. I'm working on the formulation for 14 years.
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I'm still not want the perfect one. No, because you know there a lot of really good quality SPF products in the world and I don't see the point to add another one just the same. So I want to do something
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different but SPF now I will say something very controversial. Why sunscreen it is an illusion and it is a dangerous illusion. Sunscreen it's a lost wire of the sun protection. People should not see sunscreen as an only sun
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protection. It doesn't for that's that's the problem because they apply SPF and they think they're protected and they don't uh forget about other methods like wearing a hat or staying in the shade.
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Yeah, just some lifestyle habits. And also you should understand if your circadian rhythms are disturbed your skin can be much more vulnerable to the ultraviolet during the day because with a good circadian rhythms we have natural circadian sun protection from 11
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until 3:00 p.m. If you didn't sleep well if you have circadian troubles this sun protection can be moved to the evening or to the morning time. antioxidant food if you don't have enough of antioxidant circulating in your body like a tea
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absolutely vitamin C and many of them flavonoids antoyanides actually it's easy to replace with the food because sea color eat color everything colorful it is full of antioxidants because plants pigments they are powerful antioxidants and if you don't have enough of
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antioxidants if you have bad oxidative profile It's a great great the harm of your skin and also of course other conditions like pregnancy or some people have are on medications that could trigger your skin to produce more melanin. Uh however you
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know I noticed in your advice that when you apply SPF you mentioned you need to have a good portion of it. It's like 57 ml. So if you imagine for your face you need to apply a spoon a teaspoon of SPF.
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It has to be a good amount and you need to reapply it every two hours really. So it works. Yeah. Yes. No. Because it uh it is rule created once again in '90s.
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Now fortunately we have new level of sunscreens. In the recent years we have more efficient filters and formulations.
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Now they are smarter. So 5 7 ml now it's not mandatory for new suns. Great news.
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Great. Because no one did it. No, I so uncomfortable. It's so uncomfortable and skin is so super shiny. You don't want to shine that that much. You like radiance. Not you want to look ugly. Exactly. I think it's it's
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good when you're on holiday and everyone is with this white faces and under the burning sun. But actually, if you're in town just traveling from home to work, you don't want to be looking weird. I always say that you need three
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sunscreens and uh best choice if they prescribe by you aesthetic doctors, dermatologists. So the first sunscreen it is your 9 to5 sunscreen working days because if you are like me or probably you don't spend to you go to your office in the morning and
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you're coming back in the evening. So probably 20 minutes on the suns it's best you can have but makeup great foundation with 30 35 plus sunscreen level will work and you will look great and it is important as a weekend time
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when you spend more time outdoors it can be different so it can be more powerful sunscreen like 50 plus but I also suggest to use tinted formula for women at least because first of all it's easy to see how you apply it.
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True. When it is tinted whether it's controllable and also it looks nicer. It really unifies the skin color and only on holiday.
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Sometimes if you have even have a good skin quality it it's like makeup. It gives you a little bit of a color and it's still it looks very good and natural. So talking about ingredients, going back to ingredients, do you have
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any overhyped ingredients you know that you heard of and having you here as an expert and spending decades for developing skincare, you probably know what actually what works and actually doesn't work. So any overhyped ingredients that you can name
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some hyped sometimes hypers born like a star is born and for example bol it is amazing ingredient it's retinol like it helped the aging skin to age more gracefully and it is very similar mechanism but god on the nose why bakuch
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has this hype and dozen of ingredients with the same action did it maybe it was you know because uh the ret retinols are giving uh side effects. I think when it only appeared, it was something like an alternative to a retinol. That's why
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people got to know it so much and bako was great, but there are also a lot of ingredients which are similar to bako but everyone knows bako and no one is speaking about white matrix 3000.
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Yes, true. Maybe the name is longer. Yeah, maybe the name is longer on the nose. Another uh exosomes now.
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Oh, absolutely hyped. I completely agree. Even with injectables, it's um something that are all over the place and in the UK it's allowed only to micro needle them and uh you don't really inject them. But in Asia for let's say
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last 5 years they've been injected but there's so much hype. Exosomes are everywhere. What do you think about them? I think they are very dangerous because exoomes are responsible for horizontal DNA transfer. So it is a genetic transfer from another biological
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organisms to your organisms and we don't know how it works. We don't know. We don't know. Uh they are not allowed.
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Um they in China. If in China something is banned, it must be really bad or dangerous. I mean not bad. But I recently have been on the conference at Royal Society of Medicine and there was this uh one of the doctors
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actually she was present there. Her case was discussed. She was injected with the human derived exosomes uh not in this country it was in Dubai. And from the beautiful face she got completely scarred face. Some kind of autoimmune
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process was triggered and she developed a sclerod. We don't know how it works. It's a problem. Also it can transfer prons infections creates and it can be extremely dangerous. It can manifest in dozen of years and viruses exosomes they are responsible
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for viruses transfer. And when I hear people speaking about young women who been uh well their blood was well researched, come on. You are speaking about exosomes from placenta and they are vulnerable young women who donate their placenta.
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Yeah. For this purposes because it just works like this. Let's wait and see in years. I always say there will be some brave people who will experiment with themselves and they can observe.
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Yes, I like the position of the UK in this instance. They wait, they look, they observe and then they allow if it's really safe.
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It is wise. Yeah. If skincare can do all these things, why injectables need it at all? That's a great question because skin care it's not all mighty, you know, for me. I imagine the skin needs as a pyramid you
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know like musful pyramid when in the very foundation you have safety you have the food access and on the very top you have spiritual growth you cannot grow spiritually if you are hungry yeah and just running from the tiger
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and so it's the same for me in my mind it's a pyramid muscle for the skin when in the foundation it is not even the skin Yeah, it is the sleep lifestyle, lifestyle, the [sighs and gasps] healthy diet and healthy food, physical
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activity and in the middle it would be the skin care because skin care can help rebalance the microbiome to restore and maintain barrier function of the skin to improve the antioxidant protection on the skin and do many ways and also to
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interact with the skin targeting some cells function. I would completely agree with you on this role distribution in the pyramids because I agree that injectables are in the top because of the amount of the injectables we deliver to people. It's not everyone has
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injectables but everyone have to look after the skin and uh use at least some basic uh elements like moisturizers like SPF. But uh when we are talking about injectables, I think injectables it's about the volume, contour and skin
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health whereas skin care I think it's about texture and skin health. So we're skin is a 3D organ and we are looking at it from different angles and of course injectables they can't treat the uh skin with a problem like rosaceia acne but
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also they can't really cover the surface and some of my patients let's say most of them they use good skin care but some of them don't use skin care at all. They they even barely moisturize the face and
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after procedures sometimes if they had a skin pill their skin looks worse and they ask me Dr. Anna I had these treatments but today I can see I can see more small wrinkles on the skin and I'm asking her did you use any creams at
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all? No, I didn't. They've been not educated properly because you know it is a big mistake of the education because skin needs help. Unfortunately, skin probably human body is not really born to live in the modern cities. Probably
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we are not evolved enough to live in the city like London under the stress. So there's lots of pollutants probably before 25 before 27 your skin is a fighter like your body is a fighter but later you need help and people think
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skin care it's just a luxury it is not a luxury it is essential it is more hygien especially where I don't have enough time and for example in dental practice god bless no one has this illusions and you
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can whiten new teeth once a year. Yeah. Without using tooth still. Exactly. That that's a very good comparison.
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Yeah. It just toothbrushing and toothpaste. It's less expensive than skin care. That's how it works. But you need skinincare. Even the simple one.
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Good cleanser, good moisturizer, sunscreen. It is a minimum for the skin 30 plus. It's it's like a three three things that you can buy and have. That will be cleanser, moisturizer, and masculine. My favorite three steps routine will be the
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gentle microbiome respecting cleanser, antioxidant moisturizing serum because antioxidants it's much easier to incorporate them in the water-based solution line and moisturizer or sunscreen or both of that. So, still simple, still minimalist, still not nine steps, not like Korean cosmetics. We
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were discussing with Tina before the podcast. Uh, we're talking about Korean steps and skin care. It's multicompinental and not everyone has time for that. I would say busy women, working women, they just simply don't have time.
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Yeah. Me, I don't have time. No, I have one minute in the morning, one minute in the evening, and maybe 20 minutes once a week. I'd say yet your skin looks amazing.
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Oh, thank you so much. Actually, I am a living experiment because when I launched my brand in 2009, everyone told me, not everyone, but a lot of people and a lot of my colleagues told me then let's see what you will think when you
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will be older because I was like 37 probably now I am 54 and I told okay I will experiment. I will not inject myself. I will not do laser or anything.
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I will see how your skin can live with the skin care but regular skin care just micro efforts every day skin is an organ which is able to be grateful it takes years but we'll see it one day and uh but I'm
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not saying to everyone that you don't need injectables because I'm experimenting on myself and when experiment it's just you know I think it's only fair because As a topical skin care developer, I think it would be not fair.
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Yeah, I agree. It's it's my responsibility to see how things works. But let's talk about injectables because I am not an expert in injectables. As I say, I never did it to myself and I never performed to practice injectables
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in my life. I'm focusing on the topical. But it is very interesting topic and now it's involving so much. So tell us more.
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Yeah, exactly. The the injectables started to appear at the end of 1990s 2000s when they just appeared on the market and developed to the degree and extent that uh most of people at least once in life they tried something and it
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looks like now in some psychology of people that it's like going and doing their nails or a haircut. Talking about injectables, I think what is interesting to talk about is about the evidence.
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What is truly working? Where's the evidence? Is it marketing as well as yourself? You mentioned there is a lot of marketing in the cosmetic industry. I would say there is a lot of marketing and aesthetic industry. Even more maybe
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I think even more. You I agree. And uh surprisingly popular procedures like vitamin injections or amino acid injections alone don't really have strong evidence base behind them. If we talk about hyonic acid and injections with hyonic acid, there is more
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evidence. There are randomized control studies on large groups of people showing the improved hydration, improved radiance, and in some cases elasticity.
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However, there are no kind of long-term studies suggesting that they actually reverse aging. They act for some period of time and you need to do them repeatedly for them to work. There is more evidence around Botox more studies
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product probably and is used in in medicine to treat medical conditions like chronic migraines, muscle stoicity and uh again the effect is predictable but shortlasting temporary. uh there is more evidence about collagen stimulators like poly alactic uh acid or calcium
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hydroxyepide. There are studies that proved histoological studies, randomized control studies that prove that collagen is uh getting produced more. However, we don't really have long-term data to say that it's actually modifying the aging process. And when the substance isn't
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the skin, your skin responses and produces collagen. But but it works when it's not in the skin. That's a question how you can have long-term data if the whole story started in inund years we will.
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Yeah. Probably 100 years we will. And what I find really surprising then very often in the press media even on TV or movies uh they speaking so basically about shahad botox when they see lips augmentations. So I think first of all
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people probably should understand better what you have in your tool bucket. So that you have as a I think I man would normally call box for everything. Lips botox forehead botox breast botox everything is box it's like a name
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exactly I think the simplicity is because people like the information to be delivered in a simple way. Another way to talk why it's so simplified as I say many people take it as a nail procedure or a hair procedure and they
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are satisfied with the minimal information they have. They should understand that it is a medical procedures that should be done by a doctor. Absolutely. who has the proper education, who has a real medical trainings because oh my god, I'm sorry
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to say it, but there's still a lot of people who are looking for better price and going for people who have no certificates, no education at all. They're buying this injectables product online and it is very dangerous. So, how to recognize a
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good practitioner? Why here? Thank you. I think when you mention the price there are three main components in the price uh for the aesthetic procedure. First is the price of a product. Not all hyonic acid is the same. Hyonic acid molecule is a
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commodity molecule. The expensive part is how to make it a predictable gel from this molecule. Secondly, technology and production of the gel itself. Companies invest money in cross-linking technology. Hyonic acid doesn't stay in the skin for long. native molecule stays
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in the skin for a few days. To make it last longer, companies invest and they chemically modify the gel to make it last longer. They invest to understand how the what are the sizes of the molecule, cohesivity, density. This all
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has to be regulated. And also advanced cleaning technologies are used to get rid of toxins and elements that shouldn't be in the jaw because if you have something extra that shouldn't be there, your skin will respond with inflammation or there is a risk of nodal
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formation. So that's one part of the story. There's other part of the story who is injecting and it is a big part of the story as well. Yes, because I would say the cheaper product with the right realological structure placed in the
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right level will outperform the expensive product placed wrongly. Hence, I think the biggest kind of difference in the price is the abilities the injector. I would say you will be safer if you go to a registered medical practitioner rather than a beauty salon
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where they do nails and the nail practitioner or hairdresser does it for you because believe me they do.
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I would probably say then if it's someone who is offering great discounts for me it's a red flag.
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Yeah because good products they can't be cheap if we talk about Bex. I recently was approached on WhatsApp by Korean company or Chinese company I don't know and they were send me like a booklet with prices for bottlene toxin like 20
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per bottle if you compare with the registered products it will be like 150 per bottle so the difference is huge and you need to remember that Botox is a medical pro product and the concentration of this toxin is very
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important if it's a lot of the toxin in the bottle it can have side effects detrimental health. For me it's even it's so frightening actually because the bottling toxin it is a biological weapon.
Speaker A
Yeah. And just before the launch of aesthetic procedures based on the bottling of toxin, it was very well protected in the military mostly because it's the most toxic substance. A drug could paralyze the nerves. Not to tell scary stories, but
Speaker A
in the press there were in the British press there were some side effects described by patients injected with the unregulated product ending up having problem uh swallowing. The biggest problem as I understand then bottling toxin can diffuse can be systemically
Speaker A
absorbed and can affect the respiratory function and can be very harmful. I think the official regulations are it is advised not to inject more than 500 units at the same time. So it depends on the amount of the products you're
Speaker A
injecting. It depends on the place we're injecting. If you're injecting in the neck and you go down person could have difficulty swallowing but I would say it is quite a studied project and even in pregnancy NHS would use potlinum toxin
Speaker A
injections for pregnant women who have terrible migraines and medications are contraindicated in this case we use it why not yeah it's used in pediatry used in opthalmology it's used for Parkinson's treatment it is a great treatment but in
Speaker A
aesthetic I think you can be safe when you are in a good hand practitioner by Dr. Anna and who is using good quality products with full understanding and I think with experience of 10 years believe me the more I inject the more
Speaker A
I'm careful. Yeah. I always say the bravest doctors are young doctors. Exactly. [laughter] [gasps] So how do you decide what kind of injectables someone needs? Practically I assess what is the problem, what is the need. Dynamic lines, they are normally
Speaker A
muscle driven. So put toxin could help. If it's a volume loss, contour changes, then filler or collagen stimulator. If it's a screen quality concern like fine lines and laxity uh laxity of the skin then we can use skin boosters energy based devices but
Speaker A
then of course we are assessing the anatomy the aging more for type of the patient uh then proportions are very important and uh safety profiles autoimmune conditions whether they had any treatments before side effects and it's important to assess the
Speaker A
expectations of the patient because sometimes expectations are unrealistic and unfortunately it's quite often because some people they thinking that you are fair god mother yeah with almighty can do everything and also I think that some problem and limitation
Speaker A
sometimes and remember in my French clinic once I've had a passions who asked me how to get round eyes because her husband loves big yes so and I suppose in your practice sometimes you meet patients who are asking for something which you don't
Speaker A
think can be helpful beneficial for patients. Yeah. Uh patient selection is very important and it's our duty as doctors to see whether the patients come with the right reason for treatment and sometimes they know if they're seeking for something that uh not uh helpful for
Speaker A
them and can't be achieved. I think in France they have good practice espec plastic surgeon they are obliged to sign wise if they suppose it is psychological problem like body dysmorphia. Yeah and they cannot perform any plastic surgery before than two weeks after the
Speaker A
first consultation. Yeah, it's called cooling period. When the patient wants something, it's better for them to think about this and if they're sure then they would do obviously it is not when we are speaking about when it is something which can be
Speaker A
dramatically changing can be or easily reversed easily reversed agree so better to get cooling period so it's great but let's say I have two questions first of all if it is one injectable treatment which can be good for almost everyone on like with
Speaker A
skin care, a moisturizer, cleanser and SPF would be good for most of the patient, almost everyone. Uh with the skin care injectables, I would say mostly for everyone would be good to have have a skin booster with hyonic
Speaker A
acid and some amino acids because they do improve hydration radiance and it would be nice to have this effect especially for probably some urban dwellers in the category 40 plus.
Speaker A
Yeah. And uh if they're using all the skin care and the skin care is good already then we can and they still have a problem then a bit of injectable will deliver the product deeper and boost boost the skin. Yeah.
Speaker A
And what is an injectables which is most overrated in your opinion? uh I would say probably uh the concept or of non-surgical facelift uh is overrated rather than injectable alone the concept because in many clinics you could see a
Speaker A
non-surgical facelift and we don't really know what it means often it would mean an energy based device that uh would deliver some energy to the kind of lower face to lift it up and it is a misconception of the skin when the patient is having a
Speaker A
change in the contour. It's there are multiple reasons for that and it starts from the volume loss, changes in the ligaments, laxity of ligaments, fat redistribution, muscle overactivity, all of these components they overall affect the way the person looks and only one single
Speaker A
base device can't sort it out. Best thing is the combination appro approach a bit of the petroleum toxin to relax the muscle restore the volume where you're lacking it and the skin can put some smart smart yeah not one one off
Speaker A
and this is an misconception because these energy based devices are so expensive and they can on the high street a procedure could cost 1,500 per procedure you need three of them and people really expecting to have a a
Speaker A
facelift without they didn't promised the facelift literally. Yeah. So that's understandable why the expectations can be wrong.
Speaker A
I never promise anything that I can't achieve and I think that's the reason of my success because people trust me and I would rather say that you might have an improvement but you would not be like that person in the picture. You have a
Speaker A
different anatomy, you have different lips. That's why I love you practice. so much because you promised less but you delivered more.
Speaker A
I think that's the the the gold key to success. Yeah, absolutely. And another question uh there are a lot of people who are afraid and injectables can be addictive and we see examples sometimes you know in photo and some celebrities who
Speaker A
literally say oh my god I couldn't stop. Is it true? I wouldn't call that injectables are addictive in the medical way because addiction means withdrawals, cravings.
Speaker A
We don't see it with Botox and fillers. However, people they are used to look nice and well treated and when the products are winning off, they can see their natural aging. That's why they have maybe this uh sensation that
Speaker A
actually they're age more or there is something wrong and we we aim not to create addiction as should enhance your own features that you have and you shouldn't feel that you can't live without this and I think aesthetic should make people
Speaker A
feel better about themselves. Exactly. Not to change. Yeah. Not to make it noticeable. That's a misconception. Big misconception in aesthetics. There are two positive and negative. Positive is when people think that they can achieve everything. There is no long-term data
Speaker A
that injectables can rejuvenate a aging process. A negative misconception is Botox will make me look frozen or everyone would see. You can't see it on my face. You can't see it on my patient's faces. So looks natural. It's
Speaker A
everything. It's about the balance. Yeah. And about some common sense. Yeah. I will say and I think that and we have now new generation of aesthetic doctors like yourself because you are free of all this euphoria or the first years.
Speaker A
Yeah. I agree. The more experience you have, the more kind of you're expectant towards the new technologies that are coming and you want to be conservative.
Speaker A
Yeah. I think there is a last maybe question that we can discuss with you because some patients uh in my clinic they say oh doctor I can for my skinincare I can dedicate £100 a month thinking now and having discussed that
Speaker A
skin care is super important and you can't replace skincare with injectables and injectables is something that is on the top of the pyramid and it's nice to have sometimes in some cases. What would you say? Let's say we have a between us
Speaker A
to share £100 per months. What do you think you could uh introduce? You think you should be strategic because obviously you can spend a lot of money for skin care, injectables, it's not a secret. But if you are strategic, if you
Speaker A
understand what you need and how often you need something, it is easier to create some uh payment. Yeah. As well for skin care. I will say the first row go for professional skincare. I explain why because it it has the proof already
Speaker A
because aesthetic doctors clinics they will not work with non-efficient skin care because you will not be back.
Speaker A
Yeah. If it didn't work. Yeah. And retail doesn't care about it so much because people are still back. But in professional it would be efficient and if it is well chosen by practitioner good quality practitioner it will work
Speaker A
on your skin. So I will say let's go for the budget uh gentle cleanser which is not stripping your precious microbiome your precious lipids and antioxidant protection and good sunscreen which you will better sunscreen the one you are
Speaker A
comfortable to use and also you can create the budget to get some injectable help if needed. Yeah. Few times a year.
Speaker A
Yeah. So I can recall with I would say of course I can't point it out exactly but if I need to name only one I would say probably butinum toxin because it's proven it's effective. It relaxes and acts on the cause of dynamic
Speaker A
lines and it's something that you can budget. In fact, from my practice, I see that patients who let's say can't afford many treatments, they would come twice a year for Botox and good skin care, it will be their like optimum. Also you can
Speaker A
combine with a good quality skin care because look we have this myix peptides based concentrate which can prolong result it cost about 85 and it will be good for the whole year because because botox as we know it
Speaker A
stays in the tissues for 3 months and then the molecule is simply not there.
Speaker A
Some people see a clinical effect up to 6 months because the muscles are slowly kind of waking up and in that period when your injectable has window you can use the peptides yeah and uh prolong the effect and the the smoothness of the
Speaker A
skin muscle peptides will keep you sacrificial wire of muscles very relaxed for 6 months longer and it's not very budgety thing and I think there are some areas where we can't really inject because of this possible penetration and distribution of
Speaker A
the products in the corners of the eyes we have lots of small wrinkles please you can use neuropeptides which are now so effective and can mimic the injectable they don't replace each other they very well I think they they they are elaborate
Speaker A
kind of correlate kind of partnership and also the good skin care it can be not so expensive in med I will say if people ask me what I should have with a limited budget I always say cleanser Yes,
Speaker A
because a good cleanser will improve the efficiency of all types of skin care which you're using after this cleanser and bad cleanser will kill everything.
Speaker A
So spend money for cleanser. Great. So here we are. We have our routine. We discussed very intriguing provocative questions today and I'm so delighted to have this chat with you and I hope we'll have a next episode in
Speaker A
Absolutely. Because we absolutely didn't speak about so many things we should speak in the future. But right now we came to the conclusion the anesthetic doctors and buticians skin care and objectables they are not they're not replacing each other. It is a
Speaker A
collaboration. So you can have both if you think strategically. Thank you so much for this discussion. Thank you and great to see you soon. [music] Thank you for joining us today on the Med Beauty podcast. If you found this
Speaker A
helpful, [music] be sure to subscribe so you never miss an expert skincare tip. Have a question or topic you'd like for me to [music] cover? Send me a message at podcast at midderbeauty.com [music] and let's keep the conversation going.
Speaker A
Also, you can visit mebeauty.com and discover Medkare which I created. And if [music] you enjoyed the show, I'd love if you left a review. It [music] helps other find the podcast and keeps us growing. Until next time, stay
Speaker A
healthy, [music] stay glowing, and take care of your skin.
Topics:injectablesskincareskin microbiomeaesthetic medicinecollagen stimulationpeptidesingredient penetrationcosmetic scienceanti-agingSPF application
