Zrób Sam na szydełku ☆ Mesh Top ☆ tutorial krok po kroku

[Music] Hello, my voice is not perfect yet, but today we are making a Mesh Top, which is a mesh sweater perfect for the summer, just to cover the blouse. It is not supposed to keep us warm. Let's see what we will need. [Music] Okay, so today we need 5.5 mm crochet hooks. As you can hear, my voice is not back to 100% yet, but I have to start this sweater. So during the video, you will probably see how my voice is probably improving, and I will be using a yarn that has not been here yet. See how it works. It is shiny. It is a yarn from Yarn RG Summer Dream, and it is a very nice yarn because it is a yarn with 30% viscose and 70% cotton, so it is great for various summer blouses and tops. I have two skeins, and these two skeins are mine. They will be enough without any problems. I divided them into four smaller ones, 50 g each, because here the yarn is 100 g and 350 m. I weighed it, and each of my hanks is 50 g, so I will use 50 g for the front, 50 for the back, 50 for one sleeve, and 50 for the other sleeve if you want. If you want to make the top mesh longer, you will definitely need at least one additional ball, if not two, because it depends on how long you want it to be. And it all depends on how wide it will be. Of course, I will show you how many centimeters I have, depending on your structure. It is known that this mesh will be built especially for you. Of course, we do not give up the scissors and measure, so let's start. Why 5.5 mm crochet hook for such a thin yarn? And this is because the mesh top has large holes, and I want it to be even lighter than one made with normal crochet, so these stitches will be looser than standard ones, so don't worry. Of course, if you want it to not have such large holes, use a smaller crochet hook, but it is obvious that then it will be more work at the very beginning. I measured the width and decided that I would definitely do it. I'll make the chain a little wider. I'll show you everything. I'll measure everything. I'll make 82 chain stitches here, plus two more, because the whole pattern will be made with chain stitches and double crochets, so the beginning must have even more stitches. So let's do 82 plus 2, i.e., a total of 84 stitches, and I'll jump and show you how many there are centimeters. So I'll show you all the time so that it's clear and understandable. So we create a chain, and it will work out soon. [Music] Okay, I made 82 stitches, and I'll make two in a moment, which is important for this pattern. The number of stitches here must be divided by 3 plus 1. What is it? It means that the pattern we create has three pips in each part, so if we want it to be equal, then [Music] it must be divisible by 3. For me, it's 82 pips. If I subtract them, it's 81. 81 is easily divisible by 3, so I know it fits. Why in this way? As I said, the pattern here is three stitches, but on the side, we will have two stitches, so 2 + 2 is 4, hence the divisible by 3 plus 1. And now I add 2 to these 82 stitches to create the beginning, i.e., hop. Now in the third stitch, I will make the first double crochet in a moment. Of course, I will measure to make everything clear. The yarn over, I stick in the third stitch, hop, and I have the first double crochet. And now I will measure so that you can see how much I am creating here. Of course, it won't fit all of it on the screen, but I will try to make it as visible as possible. Of course, I stretch because I know it will be a little wider in a moment, and after stretching, it gives me 62 cm. My waist is not twice 62 cm, but I decided that I just want this mesh top to be wider. No, it has to fit completely to my body, but it has to be loose. After measuring, I'm about 80 cm long, so I know that 62 plus 62 is not 80, but over 120, so I know that it will be looser and will fall on my shoulders. Because that's what I'm starting to create now. This is the front, and I immediately say the back is exactly the same. So now I start creating my pattern. The pattern that we will use here is quite a simple pattern, which, as I said, consists of a total of three stitches. So now I have to skip two stitches and make two here stitches, i.e., I make two chain stitches and then back and forth, and without any additional stitch, I make the second double crochet. I know that it diverges; it's supposed to be like that on purpose, remembering that later, after wetting it, it will definitely be a little wider. Now, again, two half double crochets and two stitches on each side. My pattern, as I said, consists of three stitches, so yes, I made one stitch here, but it is for this part. [Music] Stitch, so this is different. They are treble stitches because here we will not increase. Here there will be in each, then again two double crochets there. There will be no addition; it will not expand because, well, we will repeat the same pattern. I say the same thing here: there is a stitch, a stitch, and a stitch. Why are there not two here? Stitches separately so that the bottom wouldn't be cut any further. If we made separate stitches for each double crochet, it would be even wider, and in the next one, it would become narrower. So it's better to have the end a bit narrower so that it doesn't diverge than to have the whole thing go up. Okay, so I repeat this pattern all the time. So I make two chain stitches again, hop here, I pass two chain stitches, and again in the third stitch, I start to see that in the next rows it will be much more pleasant. I repeat until the end of the row, and we will meet at the end of this row. I will show you how to finish and how to start a new one, and then I will tell you how many rows I have made. So we repeat for now, i.e., we skip two stitches, we make two stitches at the end, we will definitely do it in this place. Later, there will be two stitches, and in the last stitch, we meet. Okay, we have the end of the first row, and as you can see, we are left with one more stitch, and after making two chain stitches, at the end, we make only one double crochet. Hop, one double crochet. Well, here the threads are a little loose. Okay, we have it, and now two chain stitches, one, two. We turn our work, and in the first stitch, we make one double crochet. Hop, double again, two chain stitches, and here it will be easy because here we make two double crochets between each two double crochets. See, hop, one and two, and again two chain stitches and again two double crochets, two chain stitches, and two double crochets, hop, and again here two double crochets. So the next rows will not be so troublesome. How to start it on a chain? See, show the viewer how many centimeters there are currently without any stretching, just nicely. Here I will arrange it so that we have it from edge to edge. Practically, the sun is coming in, and now I check from edge to edge. Here I get 52 cm without stretching. Any stretch, it comes out as you saw before, almost 62, and for me, it's perfect. If you want wider, you do it. Remember, three more stitches every three, every three. If I had 82, you do 85 or 88 or 91, and only then do we add these two stitches at the beginning of the row to start our top. So now we make how many rows? As many as we want. I want this top to end under my bust, so I will make 25 rows. I'll show you what it looks like right away. You can also start the other side. Remember, I divided the skein into two, i.e., the front. It will be made of 50 g and the back also of 50 g, which means that we also divide 350 in half, which gives 175 from what I count correctly, because 300 for p is 150 and 50 for half is 25, so 25 + 150 is 175, and that's enough for me. The width here is these 82 stitches, and the height is 25 rows, so I'm working it. We'll meet in a moment when there will be two such parts. I'll show you how to connect and start the sleeves. Ok, this is what both parts look like. As I said, 82 stitches for 25 rows. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, and at the end, there are two parts, so I already put both parts here.

need [Music] Okay, so today we need he sewed 5.5 mm crochet hooks, as you can hear, my voice is not back to 100% yet, but I have to start this sweater, so during the video you will probably see how my voice is probably improving, and I will be using a yarn

that has not been here yet, see how it works it is shiny it is a yarn from yard RG Summer Dream and it is a very nice yarn because it is a yarn with 30% viscose and 70% cotton so it is great for

various summer blouses and tops I have two skeins and these two skeins are mine they will be enough without any problems . I divided them into four smaller ones, 50 g each, because here the yarn is 100 g and 350 m. I weighed it and each of my hammers is 50 g, so

I will use 50 g for the front, 50 for the back, 50 for one sleeve and 50 for the other sleeve if you want. If they wanted to make the toop mast longer, you will definitely need at least one additional boot, if not two, because it depends on how long you

want it to be. And it all depends on how wide it will be. Of course, I will show you how many centimeters I have, depending on it. what is your structure, it is known that this mesh will be built especially for

you, of course we do not give up the scissors and measure, so let's start Why 5.5 mm crochet hook for such a thin yarn And this is because the mesh toop has large holes and I want it to be even more lighter than one made with normal

crochet, so these stitches will be looser than standard ones, so don't worry. Of course, if you want it to not have such large holes, use a smaller crochet hook, but it is obvious that then it will be more work at the very

beginning. I measured the width and decided that I would definitely do it. I'll make the chain a little wider. I'll show you everything. I'll measure everything. I'll make 82 chain stitches here , plus two more, because the whole pattern will be made with chain stitches

and double crochets, so the beginning must have even more stitches, so let's do 82 plus 2, i.e. a total of 84 stitches, and I'll jump and show you how many there are. centimeters so I'll show you all the time so that it's clear and understandable, so we create

a chain and it will work out soon [Music] okay, I made 82 stitches and I'll make two in a moment, which is important for this pattern, the number of stitches here must be divided by 3 plus 1 What is it? means that

the pattern we create has three pips in each part, so if we want it to be equal, then [Music] J must be divisible by 3, for me it's 82 pips, if I subtract them it's 81 81 is easily divisible by 3 so I know it

fits Why in this way, as I said, the pattern here is three stitches but on the side we will have two stitches, so 2 + 2 is 4, hence the divisible PR 3 plus 1 and now I add D to these 82 stitches to create the beginning, i.e. hop yid now in the third

stitch I will make the first double crochet in a moment Of course, I will measure to make everything clear, the yarn over I stick in the third stitch hop and I have the first double crochet and now I will measure so that you can see how much I am creating here,

of course it won't fit all of it on the screen but I will try to make it as visible as possible, of course I stretch because I know it will be a little wider in a moment and after stretching it gives me 62

cm, my waist is not twice 62 cm but I decided that I just want this m top to be wider no it has to fit completely to my body, but it has to be loose, after measuring I'm about 80 cm long, so I know that 62 plus 62 is not

80, but over 120, so I know that it will be looser and will fall on my shoulders. Because that's what I'm starting to create now. this is the front and I immediately say the back is exactly the same so now I start creating

my pattern the pattern that we will use here it is quite a simple pattern which, as I said, consists of a total of three stitches so now I have to skip two stitches and make two here stitches, i.e. I make

two chain stitches and then back and forth and without any additional stitch I make the second double crochet I know that it diverges, it's supposed to be like that on purpose, remembering that later, after wetting it, it will definitely be a little wider, now

C again, two half double crochets and two stitches on each side, my pattern, as I said, consists of three stitches, so yes, I made one stitch here, but it is for this part [Music] stitch, so this is different, they are TR stitches because here we will not increase, here there will be in

each, then again two double crochets there, there will be no addition, it will not expand because Well, we will repeat the same pattern, I say the same thing here, there is a stitch, a stitch and a stitch, why are there not two here? stitches

separately so that the bottom wouldn't be cut any further, if we made separate stitches for each double crochet, it would be even wider, and in the next one it would become narrower, so it's better to have the end a bit narrower so that it does

n't diverge than to have the whole thing go up. Okay, so I repeat this pattern all the time So I make two chain stitches again, hop here I pass two chain stitches and again in the third stitch I start to

see that in the next rows it will be much more pleasant. I repeat until the end of the row and we will meet at the end of this row. I will show you how to do it. finish and How

to start a new one and then I will tell you how many rows I have made, so we repeat for now, i.e. we skip two stitches, we make two stitches at the end, we will definitely do it in this place, later there will be

two stitches and in the last stitch We meet, okay, we have the end of the first row and as you can see, we are left with one more stitch and after making two chain stitches, at the end we make only

one double crochet Hop one double crochet Well here the threads are a little loose, okay, we have it and now two chain stitches one two we turn our work and in the first stitch we make one double crochet

Hop double again two chain stitches and here it will be easy because here we make two double crochets between each two double crochets. See, hop one and two and again two chain stitches and again two double crochets two chain stitches and two double

crochets hop and again here two double crochets so the next rows will not be so troublesome how to start it on a chain o See, show the viewer how many centimeters there are currently without any stretching, just nicely

here I will arrange it so that we have it from edge to edge, practically the sun is coming in and now I check from edge to edge Here I get 52 cm without stretching any stretch it comes out as you saw before, almost

62 and for me it's perfect. If you want wider, you do it. Remember, three more stitches every three every three, if I had 82, you do 85 or 88 or 91 and only then do we add these two stitches at the beginning of the row to start our top, so now we make How many

rows, as many as we want. I want this toop to end under my bust, so I will make 25 rows. I'll show you what it looks like right away. You can also start the other side. Remember, I divided the skein into 2, i.e. the front.

It will be made of 50g and the back also of 50g, which means that we also divide 350 in half, which gives 175 from what I count correctly, because 300 for p is 150 and 50 for half is 25, so 25 + 150 is 175, and that's enough for me the width

here is these 80 two stitches and the height is 25 rows so I'm working it, we'll meet in a moment when there will be two such parts I'll show you how to connect and start the sleeves ok, this is what both parts look like as I said 82 stitches for

25 rows r 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 and at the end there are two parts, so I already put both parts here and I just spam almost the last stitch by

accident Okay, now what are we trying on? and we look at how much space we need to have for our head. At the beginning I had it wider, but later I decided that it doesn't have to be that wide because we remember that after

the first soaking, i.e. blocking, it will definitely expand a bit, so we can always make it smaller, we can always make it smaller yes plus minus 2 cm Or even 3 cm to make it a bit smaller, of course I don't recommend it too much because it varies, the yarn is trying

to be arranged okay I made markers where, looking from the edge, this is the eighth space, i.e. one two 3 4 5 6 7 and 8 and I know these moments will be there connect how we connect it and there is great freedom here we can

connect it simply with half double crochets we can also connect it with double crochets when we connect this is what we will have I haven't connected it yet I prefer to start making the sleeves here, of course we also measure our

arm so that it is Wi how much we have in the circumference of the hand, i.e. at the bicep at the beginning, so that it doesn't turn out that later it is simply too tight, of course, I have already measured it here and for me it turns out that about half of the rows are my hand and now

in how we will connect it, of course I'm showing it to you Okay, so I checked, I measured my hand and if I don't stretch it, it's very important because these are two different ones, if it's not stretched, we have about 12 cm here,

but if I take it and stretch it, it will stretch because I I know that this mesh toop will definitely change its shape over time, it will definitely stretch. It's just freshly made now, and freshly made, the yarn is not yet arranged

the way it will be, for example, after the first wash, I have it here, it's exactly 10 10 space, i.e. once d TR 4 5 6 7 8 9 and 10 you can't see it because I have two layers here

with Where's my face we start from the armpit why because when connecting the rows it's better to be less visible than more visible Well we don't want it to go wrong it's better for the arm to go under the arm, it won't be visible anyway,

but if something went wrong with this connection, it's better for it to be hidden, how do we start, we'll do it so that in each space there will be these two stitches, i.e. the pattern is the same, but it will be different for the first stitch and the last two

because here we will do it so that in the next row these two spaces will be as if they were one. I'll show you in a moment what I mean. I'm going to make a chain stitch.

I'm going to do everything separately, i.e. first. this side and then the other side Well, because I want to make a sleeve, everything needs to be connected, I have akat here, I have it tied with a thread, I have a marker here so that I know where the end and the beginning

of this row of mine is, I put it underneath, I have this stitch and now I pull out the yarn over, I pull the yarn over, the hop and now I make something like here for two stitches, hop and once again, so I have the first double crochet, the thread that

stays here, and I'll just tangle it in here, so that the pattern won't go this way, but this way. So what we have here at the end will be here in a moment, and he it will also want to stretch

why That's why we have to catch it here in such a way that it doesn't try to go wider than the part that we created here, so the pattern will be the same except for the first stitch, the last one and here

the edge stitches. On both parts No sharpness You are important So now after the first double crochet in the 10th space I normally make two chain stitches and a yarn over and in the next space I normally make two

double crochets as I said and repeat until the end of this first part, remembering that in this last space it is already at the edge this front or back part, because it all depends on which sleeve you are going to make, we make one, i.e. there will be one

double crochet here and we will meet here soon, so we work two doubles as before, so this pattern goes the same, two double crochets, two stitches, two double crochets, two stitches and I I'll jump here in a moment and I'll show you what to do in this last stitch And what to do in

this first one to make it look good in the next row I'll show you too so that we don't get lost, so we knit and we meet in a moment at the end of this first part [Music] we have focus ok ok and now Look, I have the last part I have already

done two stitches and I am making one double crochet Hop and they are still disconnected for now but I know that they will be sewn here later and this is so that we don't have too many stitches here so

already here on the other side I'm making the second double crochet so here I treat it as a unity, so these two double crochets even though they are separate and work exactly like these See there are no stitches between them Now I'm just making two

stitches and here on the other side I'm already making next parts, i.e. hop the second space and so to space 10, there I will also make only one double crochet, I will connect it with the first one that was at the beginning of the row and then I will show you how the next

rows will grow so that it will look nice here, so we work to this for me it's 10, we remember that there will also be one double crochet here, but I 'll show it to you in a moment [Music]

okay, I have the last space and the same as before, I'm doing here, grabbing the thread that comes from the first stitch, I'm grabbing it here under the hop I make one treble crochet and without any stitches I go straight through, so nothing got tangled here,

I move on to the first one, the first one in the row. Now I join it with a chain stitch, rather more precisely, it's a single crochet, not even a chain stitch, that's not the case if they lifted it for this. this stitch is probably in a bad place somewhere here, but

it's there to be joined, waiting, so I'm looking here to get it right, I know that it's like this one and two here, and here's my first stitch, it's a bit wrong here, but maybe when I lay it down more and it happened, it was

simply because I had lifted the work a little earlier and this stitch was trying to line up incorrectly, but I went through one thread once and the second thread of this stitch should also line up so nicely right about

[ Music] I see it and I can't go through no [Music] I believe okay okay I have it and now with this first stitch I connect it with a single stitch, not any chain before I said just a single stitch, so I pull the yarn over through what was

so tight here, it should work out but very I had a great dream, let's try differently [Music] Well, I don't believe that such things about hop and hop and I left and now we remember that these two double crochets, they

are supposed to theoretically look like these, so I know that I have to insert two more double crochets here, now that I have this single crochet I put it underneath, I make a yarn over, I pull it out, I have two stitches

, I pull it over, I make a yarn over, I make a stitch, and this is my first fake double crochet, and next to it I'm making a regular one, i.e. a hop and double crochets on both sides, so now I make two

chain stitches and between these double crochets I make two double crochets again, so I continue.

exactly the same pattern that was earlier on this one, just remember that when we get to the point of connection, it will look strange here [Music] for now, I still have a pole here, you can make it here too, see, as soon as

I connect it, this is what it looks like if necessary, you can see two double crochets, two stitches in a moment, of course, I will show you this moment and we also do the remaining rows in this way, so we repeat the same pattern all the time. How

long? As long as it lasts, we actually have enough yarn, remember, I divided the yarn into two smaller ones, so each one is 50 g and I would like this sleeve to reach up to my wrist, so I think

I should get about 30 rows here, or maybe even 40. How do I know that, because when I look at it, it was repeated here, here I had 26 of these parts of the pattern in a row now in a row I don't

have as many as 26, I only have 18 so I will definitely make more than 25 rows, well drink rows I think it will be even more than just drink so I think it will be about 40 rows I will jump in a moment I will show you what my sleeve looks like and whether it

actually fits I did well with these 30, maybe a few 40 rows , so as I said, let's go here, I'll show you this connection in a moment and then we'll meet again for stitching, so let's go, I'll do a quick skip here and I'll show you this part

of the sleeve here in a moment until we get to this place, there are two double crochets between other two double crochets [Music] and we look, I already have two stitches here and between these No sharpness, catch nicely between

these double crochets on two different sides, we need to make double crochets again, i.e.

one double crochet Hop and the second double crochet between here two stitches chain and move on to the next two double crochets and now in the next rows this pattern will look completely normal here, no problem. See, it already looks like

it should, where we will have to always remember about it, nowhere really. we just have to remember that here We start each with a fake double crochet and a single double crochet, so we end with two chain stitches which in a moment are joined here with a single stitch.

I will show it quickly in a moment so that it doesn't run away, but here we will repeat for the next rows and I wouldn't like it to be the joining of the rows was visible. So what I said earlier is that they can be done

nicely enough that he won't jump, but for safety's sake it's always better to do it under the arm, so I'll finish it here and we'll meet here at the end of this row [Music] okay As I said earlier, the end of the row, i.e. the

first fake double crochet and the real one. I already have two chain stitches here, so hop. I insert myself just before the real double crochet because this is where I get such a beautiful stitch, so I only insert under this stitch, I make a

single crochet, hop. Hug and now I go in, see how I expand, there is one more thread here and now under this whole thread, even the lower thread, yarn over through di one chain stitch and again I make a regular double crochet next to it and I have the beginning of the row and again two

chain stitches and I look where the next two double crochets are and again between the posts and so on until the entire left and right sleeves are made and we meet there too, i.e.

Jakob will connect both sleeves of Weda, there is still some work ahead of us, but it will be nice, okay, one sleeve is done, and it's done. The second sleeve, in my case, the sleeves have 39 rows each, until I my butt hurts from doing so many rows at once in one day and

let's move on to sewing because that's all we have left. I'm already here. Look, one side is waiting, the other one is already connected, here it is already connected and the other side is waiting for me to show it to you, the

same here on bottom under the sleeve, on one side I already have it sewn, on the other side I'm waiting for me to show you And now each of these parts will be connected differently, the one under the arm, because these are the edges of the rows, will simply be sewn

in such a way that, first of all, all these spaces were even , so that the edge would turn out evenly, as it turned out here on this side.

See, it's even, there's no thickening, because these are Two Shores. But the general idea is that the pattern should be so that these spaces, this grid, are connected here evenly. That is, simply when sewing, we remember, we connect these squares here, all of them evenly together,

we have this sharpness and the momentum of the rivets, I will show you here what I mean, at the end, we do it, we start from here, so that later it will be easier to hide the thread at the end, and here, at the beginning, we do

not make a chain stitch, but we take it and we even tie it here, see, I'm making a knot here, secondly, secondly, we turn it inside out, i.e. not from this side, but from the other side, we sew it in. See, I take it, arrange the lines as evenly as possible

and start sewing them, so here I will arrange it every time together we fix it so that the folder Look at these chain stitches that were here between the posts, they have always been even, you can see the even holes because the chain stitches are flush with each other and we just

take it, I'll jump here under the marker and sew it through, i.e. between the threads that are here at the edge once it is a double crochet, once it is a double crochet and a chain, because depending on whether it was the end of the row or

the beginning of the row, we take it and sew it. Yes, we remember, we do it on the wrong side and we always make sure that one part and the other part are connected, so there is no greater philosophy here we sew it until the end, remember to

arrange it evenly here so that it doesn't fall apart and the thread doesn't escape from the needle. If you don't have such a large needle, you can use a regular needle as long as it has an eye large enough so that you can also sew it here. a sharp needle then

we remember, we just have to be more careful with our fingers, so here, as I said, it is always sewn from the front, thanks to which the thread fits nicely. See here, it fits nicely and I say this is the left side, so

the thread will remain on the left side and so it will be sewn through until it reaches the armpit. here I have a marker next to the feed So this is the way I call it, what we do from the other side from the other side, meaning from the top here,

see, I have already connected it here the connection looks different than sewing because it's not sewing, it's just chain stitches, double stitches made flat and I'll tell you right away it's not comfortable But as you can see, it looks perfect and very nice,

see how we do it here I started with the sleeve and I'm going to the middle and in the same way I do it on the other side to make it look even, you can't do it from the other side from here to the armpit. Thanks to this you don't have to look where

the last stitch is, it's your choice here how to do it. we can do this, you can have a thread here, you don't have to, it varies, but I'll start with a regular thread because I know it simply won't be enough after the whole sweater is finished.

I still have a piece of yarn left, so I have a loose thread to just do it, and now, how do we do it at the beginning?

starting stitch Well, make the first stitch, put it on the hook and now our working thread will have to go under the work so that only the double stitches are visible at the top. Therefore, it is best to insert the hook from the bottom so that the thread will line up immediately,

you see it comes out from the center can't stick out here, I'll have to zoom in so that it's much easier for me to show it without lifting it up I think it'll be OK now I hope it won't disappear here

against the background of all these colors and now to combine it, let's take the first free time, some here's a stitch on the edge and see. Even if I have the sleeve already attached here, I make sure that

everything is even, because here the sleeve and everything else fits together, so I take the first stitch, just any stitch, and just join it with a single stitch. Well, I'm tight. of course, crochet, oh no, my thread will split, I think that's it, one more thing,

okay, okay, here we go, and now [Music] let's start, how do I look, can you see me at all in the camera, okay, and now we look like this because we have stitch threads, but you have to catch me sharply we have stitches on this side, so here we have beautiful double crochet stitches at the top

and on the other side we have the same ones and we will do the same with the stitches here, the chains are there, we will connect only the middle threads.

Why do I say middle threads, because from this side it is the back thread, but from the other side as let's look, it's ours, it's like the front one, it's not convenient, but it's nice, so look, I take the first stitch and insert it under it. Look, just under the

back thread, I haven't inserted the thread into the entire stitch. I'm looking for it on the other side and I also have a stitch and I insert it only under the one that is there. from the middle Now I take a yarn over and pull it once through one stitch, then through the other and finally

I pull it through what is on the hook and again I take one from the net, the working thread underneath, I look at the next stitch and again I take only this one from the middle of our work, I pull one through, I pull

the other through and I drag what was on the crochet and in this way I work until the final moment, that is, in my case it is the middle, and if you work from the middle to the sleeve, then until you reach

the connection with the sleeve, oh, and I say it is not comfortable, but it is very nice.

Later, the connection looks like this, so we connect. We meet at the summary and we always look at which stitch is already connected. If the thread comes out of it, I know that it was already a hop. It's best to do it not in the air, but as long as the

piece lies. This will make it easier for us to find these all the stitches So here is another time waster, but in a moment it will be over and in a moment this satisfaction will simply be able to come out. We already have this joy from the finished

mop, okay, so let's look carefully at all the stitches and connect them. Because I have something here. I lost a stitch, so at the place where the chain stitches will be, it may be more difficult at times, then stretch it a little, there must be this stitch.

This is what we meet at the end. And that's it, okay, at the very end, of course, when sewing, i.e. on the side of our mop.

If we have a free thread, we take it and tie it. tie it in a knot and try to hide the threads that are left here somewhere. I know it's not very easy with a mop, but remember that this was created here and between

this seam you can definitely hide one thread from the top here at the very end after After finishing the connection, we make a single crochet, which is normal, i.e. a chain stitch. Look what happened to me.

By accident, I pulled the unfastening too hard, and I have to fix it quickly. [Music] I wanted to show you on purpose, I didn't do the last stitch, and what, I pulled it too hard. So, we do it at the end. we already have

a chain stitch and we squeeze it tightly, of course we pull the thread to the end so that [Music] we can make a small knot here and of course we hide the thread again here somewhere between this end but the needle can be hidden so we try

to hide all the threads as much as possible, not much even a piece, and in fact our mesh toop is ready to wear, the whole thing won't fit here, just about right.

You can see that there are sleeves at the bottom of the front, which is important, it's worth washing it before wearing because, as I said earlier, it will definitely stretch a little, that's normal when blocking So you have to be prepared for this, okay, I hope

I explained everything here. If it turns out that something is missing, that something is not shown well, that is not clearly stated, comments are at your disposal and, of course, social media, i.e. Instagram, Facebook and even tiktok is also there, I will reply

as soon as possible. as soon as possible I hope you will finish these mast tooops I am waiting for the markings, of course so that I can see your finished works And for now leave your thumbs up, subscribe to the channel and press

the bell to stay up to date and receive notifications And as for the next one Bye and