Anthony Bourdain explores Peru's food scene in Lima and the countryside, from ceviche and home cooking to a visit to cacao farms and the rise of premium chocolate.
Key Takeaways
- Peru's cuisine is extraordinarily diverse, drawing on coastal, Andean and Amazonian ingredients and immigrant influences.
- Lima has become one of South America's premier food cities, driven by a generation of world-class chefs.
- Premium chocolate's rising value has complex effects on Peruvian cacao farmers, raising questions about fair distribution.
- Traditional home cooking and modern chef-driven innovation both play important roles in Peru's food identity.
What the video covers
- Bourdain opens by framing Peru as a country that has long driven outsiders to obsession, now joined by fascination with fine chocolate.
- He visits the home of Marissa, a beloved caterer and cookbook author, whose weekend gatherings showcase traditional Peruvian dishes like tiradito, causa de cangrejo and fish braised in chicha de jora.
- In Lima, chef Javier Wang's uncompromising ceviche and wok cooking illustrate the city's world-class seafood and fusion influences, including Chinese and Japanese immigrant traditions.
- Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino's restaurant Malabar highlights the rivers, ocean and landscape of Peru through diverse, novel ingredients.
- Gastón Acurio, a leading chef and culinary dynasty figure, appears as a guide to Peru's modern gastronomic movement.
- Bourdain travels with Eric Ripert to examine the origins of premium cacao, following a designer chocolate business Ripert introduced him to.
- The episode examines how cacao farmers' livelihoods have changed, comparing past soybean and coffee income with current chocolate-driven economics.
- Bourdain questions whether the premium chocolate trade benefits growers or amounts to exploitative opportunism, breaking down how the money is distributed.
- A hike up steep hills with local guide Don Roberto leads to the cacao trees, emphasizing the physical labor behind the product.
- The episode closes with a wood-fire cooking session using ingredients from a morning market, returning to basics.
Chapters
- 00:00Peru's Obsessions and Chocolate Intro
- 02:50Weekend Feast at Marissa's Home
- 07:10Ceviche and Seafood in Lima
- 09:40Lima's Culinary Scene and Gastón Acurio
- 11:50Malabar and Peru's Native Ingredients
- 16:40Cacao Economics and Farmers' Livelihoods
- 24:20Hike to the Cacao Groves
- 36:40Wood-Fire Cooking and Closing
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
Speaker A
Peru is a country that's historically driven men mad. Mad for gold, for coca, for its magical ancient history. But now there's something else drawing outsiders to its hidden mountain valleys. We love the stuff. We obsess about it, gorge on it, and fetishize it.
Speaker A
i'm talking about chocolate once a common treat it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine making the pursuit of the raw good stuff all the more difficult i'm joining that hunt in remotest peru but not before i've re-immersed myself
Speaker A
I'm talking about chocolate. Once a common treat, it's now becoming as nuanced as fine wine, making the pursuit of the raw, good stuff all the more difficult. I'm joining that hunt in remotest Peru, but not before I've re-immersed myself
Speaker A
chef of the world famous restaurant le bernardin in new york to look at where chocolate comes from particularly our chocolate a very expensive limited run designer chocolate bar business that eric got me into last year so that's why we're in peru but before
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in the booming Lima food
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has exploded in the last decade with scores of world-class chefs cooks and restaurants it has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of south america let's do it half hour raise the house that's it so
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[Music]
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about an hour south of lima is where they spend their weekends is like peru's julia child james beard rolled in a one thank you for having us a caterer cookbook author beloved icon of peruvian gastronomy this is the yuca oh yeah i'm going in to
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the cool scene on my shoulders
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no sounds like paradise wow look at this every weekend marissa opens the house to an ever-changing mob of friends visitors drop-ins and family this is fantastic they do not skimp on the food delicious delicious things pour out of the kitchen
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[Music]
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this is from the coat beautiful tiradito de pejare basically raw king fish fillets dressed with aji amarillo and lime juice perfect and that is fresh scallops and lemon juice garlic and aji limo drum fish braised in chichi dehora a
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[Music]
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and that's just the beginning there's so much more food there's no way we can show it all much less describe it it's incredible overwhelming invariably fresh and delicious and thrillingly different than what i'm used to yeah it's fantastic i could frankly get
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[Applause]
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neighbor it's so good so has peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and this delicious and we're just discovering it or has it changed over the last it's changing anyway but you know what you're eating now it's the traditional
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[Music]
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there is a lot of ingredients good ingredients all year round is very good what do you do when you're homesick for peruvian food and you're traveling there's really no we take some always some chilies with us in the
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[Applause]
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to visit incredible meal so happy all i can say is if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip it's gonna be okay [Music] lima city of kings home to a third of peru's people
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[Music]
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see chef javier wang the uniquely non-conformist seafood specialist famous for his incredible and uncompromising ceviches and his flaming wok if peru has a national dish it's probably ceviche the freshest fish only needs the right cut a little citrus and no heat
Speaker A
I'm in Peru with this guy, Eric Ripert, the guy. He was looking at this. He went into the tree. That's funny.
Speaker A
it too much ahead of time the whole place is served whatever menu he's doing that day same for everybody and today the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice so that's what we're getting generally thicker pieces to stand up to the spices
Speaker A
Chef of the world-famous restaurant Le Bernardin in New York, to look at where chocolate comes from, particularly our chocolate, a very expensive, limited-run designer chocolate bar business that Eric got me into last year. So that's why we're in Peru. But before
Speaker A
yeah me neither i don't like pain except which is paint with the pepper brutalized with the pepper i like that's that's really okay tiradito a flounder dressed with pecans lime ahilimo and sesame oil which clearly eric likes this is totally going
Speaker A
we get all Indiana Jones, we're spending some time in Lima, as we like the capital city just fine, and we have both, from previous trips, friends here. Lima is the cultural hub and culinary capital of a country that
Speaker A
20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers and their influence is felt here particularly in the food to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent it's that influence and the ingredients of amazonia and the andes that really distinguishes
Speaker A
has exploded in the last decade with scores of world-class chefs, cooks, and restaurants. It has long been considered to be one of the best food scenes in all of South America. Let's do it. Half hour. Raise the house. That's it. So,
Speaker A
his name is juan i mean unless he's a retired porn star this shouldn't be good but it is we're gonna have a sweat on that one yeah i might have a couple more beers after this piece goes sour and then have a nice nap
Speaker A
yeah, five minutes. One of our friends here is chef-restaurateur Gastón Acurio. He's one of the best, most successful chefs in the country. His family is something of a beloved culinary dynasty in Peru, and Pucusana, a small fishing village
Speaker A
colander coolanted it's like cilantro but it's long leaves much more powerful in flavor it would be wrong to not point out that peru along with brazil is at the forefront of a movement celebrating the incredible and unique larder
Speaker A
about an hour south of Lima, is where they spend their weekends. It's like Peru's Julia Child, James Beard rolled into one. Thank you for having us. A caterer, cookbook author, beloved icon of Peruvian gastronomy. This is the yuca. Oh yeah, I'm going in to
Speaker A
ingredients pedro escofino is at the cutting edge of exactly that territory his restaurant hamas explores the rivers the ocean the landscape of peru highlighting a range of products that are stunning in their diversity and to us anyway their newness wow this
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say one is fortunate to enjoy her hospitality. Would be an understatement. Pilar, Gastón? Oh yes, yeah, definitely. Warm, generous, welcoming beyond belief. So soon? Normally we have lunch late, not like five months. Do you nap before lunch or after? Both. No,
Speaker A
the almond is very very soft like the flavor of it it complements really well and this one is fresh water shrimp dashi made of taro root and a fresh water shrimp whole different flavor spectrum right oh no it's almost like you need a new
Speaker A
no. Sounds like paradise. Wow, look at this. Every weekend, Marissa opens the house to an ever-changing mob of friends, visitors, drop-ins, and family. This is fantastic. They do not skimp on the food. Delicious, delicious things pour out of the kitchen,
Speaker A
cocktails too cashew uh caipirinhas oh we're gonna be wasted yeah we'll be fine oh wow so this is also tradition this is called patarashka they season the fish they put it on leaf and they cook it the fish is catfish in the amazon we
Speaker A
a torrent, a deluge of traditional Peruvian favorites. This is causa with crab meat, the yellow potato, and avocado. We love avocado. Causa de cangrejo is like a terrine of crab meat, eggs, avocado, and mashed yellow potatoes. Okay,
Speaker A
and the sauce is a reduction of fermented wild manure for fermented yeah this is i say toxic or poisonous poisonous yeah yeah so they let it ferment and it becomes you can eat it these fish are unbelievable when you see
Speaker A
this is from the coast. Beautiful. Tiradito de pejerrey, basically raw king fish fillets dressed with ají amarillo and lime juice. Perfect. And that is fresh scallops and lemon juice, garlic, and ají limo. Drum fish braised in chicha de jora,
Speaker A
as far as restaurants and it is this really prove it and we have a chili pepper made with russian nuts and these are ants wow they're huge they're huge ants okay yeah yeah totally you're not loving that are you no
Speaker A
a corn-based beer. They look fantastic. Spicy or not? This is very spicy. Very spicy. Oh, that sounds good. Oh, and stuffed rocoto peppers filled with ground beef and raisins, served with queso parmesano. [Music] Wow, are we lucky or what? We are lucky,
Speaker A
around and you look at the toilet and like all these ant heads floating around in there it'd be cool yeah we'll be super cool i can't wait [Music] so now that we've confirmed what we already knew that peru's food
Speaker A
and that's just the beginning. There's so much more food. There's no way we can show it all, much less describe it. It's incredible, overwhelming, invariably fresh and delicious, and thrillingly different than what I'm used to. Yeah, it's fantastic. I could frankly get
Speaker A
what these ancient peoples were like how they lived wow i mean this is like the real stuff i think so wow right i mean it's the real yeah gold necklaces you see why the spanish just freaked out when they came here
Speaker A
out of the chocolate business right now, put up a pup tent on Marissa's porch, and pretty much dig in for the duration. This is living. Those little fish are amazing. They're so fresh. I want to be her next-door
Speaker A
yeah i should have known that turns out things could get pretty interesting back in the day oh yeah those guys could get crazy get wild and apparently very kinky the erotic gallery oh there you go that's a conversation starter i take
Speaker A
neighbor. It's so good. So, has Peruvian cuisine always been this diverse and this delicious, and we're just discovering it, or has it changed over the last... It's changing anyway, but you know what you're eating now? It's the traditional
Speaker A
didn't think of first oh that's man chicken i'm not sure i understand this one tony i think we frown on that these days [Music] oh wow they're doing it under a blanket this must be after the spanish arrived
Speaker A
food. There's so many products in Peru that are unfamiliar to people in the States. When you eat this food, it's not like, well, this is something like... No, it's not really. It's not kind of like anything. It's really all its own.
Speaker A
somewhere or something i'm betting this was right out of the table come on in have a cup of tea sit down [Laughter] here's some animal and animal action this is pretty awesome uh yeah no this is interesting yeah i'm happy we made it here tony
Speaker A
There is a lot of ingredients, good ingredients, all year round. It is very good. What do you do when you're homesick for Peruvian food and you're traveling? There's really no... We take some. We always take some chilies with us in the
Speaker A
jack street meats and as anybody who knows me is well aware i love me some sweetly the street food in peru is starting to disappear because you know the neighbors they go the neighbors complain complain our friend koke brought us to
Speaker A
luggage. We're the perfect smugglers. I believe you do it, man. I hate to say goodbye to this, but it is what it is. Things to do, places to go, wild and apparently extremely rare cacao trees
Speaker A
popular with the spanish conquistadors as it is today that looks good which is to say i must have some damn traditionally a mix of beef hearts and other animal parts chicken hearts they're like a gizzard and just tried right marinated in garlic
Speaker A
to visit. Incredible meal. So happy. All I can say is, if people are anywhere near this nice on the rest of this trip, it's going to be okay. [Music] Lima, City of Kings, home to a third of Peru's people.
Speaker A
that's good [Music] man that's awesome yeah bee party yeah that is some magic right there hello hello it's very garlicky the marinade is nice chicken that is seriously tasty delicious the beef part of the chicken heart is the
Speaker A
[Music] Locals escape by hanging out at the beach, and why not, when you can maybe get a tattoo while you're at it? Is that sanitary? You've been here before? Oh yeah, man. [Music] I take Eric's suggestion. We head over to
Speaker A
there it's our next stop the staging area for our trip to the mountains to find our cacao chocolate i mean we know we like the stuff but how is it made where does it come from [Music] columbus was the first european to
Speaker A
see chef Javier Wong, the uniquely non-conformist seafood specialist, famous for his incredible and uncompromising ceviches and his flaming wok. If Peru has a national dish, it's probably ceviche. The freshest fish only needs the right cut, a little citrus, and no heat.
Speaker A
beans in a drink he was considered the drink of the gods like most expensive delicious things from abroad the largely inbred and frequently syphilitic european royalty did their best to keep what was fast becoming a craze for hot chocolate
Speaker A
What's the most common thing that people do wrong? The quality of the ingredients. You don't do a ceviche with something that is not ultra fresh, right? The cut is very important, the thickness, right? And when you do the ceviche, you don't do
Speaker A
under the sun ooh what man you got your animal skulls whoa that's tempting haircut uh i'm good wow those are the raw beans and that one is the toaster toasted and then she grinds it and then she put it in a mold gracias
Speaker A
it too much ahead of time. The whole place is served whatever menu he's doing that day, same for everybody. And today, the flounder he got from the market is particularly nice, so that's what we're getting. Generally thicker pieces to stand up to the spices
Speaker A
he's got more of a spiritual side than me so it's all the ingredients that you need for the shaman to um to bless the heart rest of the cacao okay so he's got us shopping for what i guess you'd call
Speaker A
and acids. First up, an octopus and flounder ceviche. I don't know what to tell you, man. It's damn good. Oh, that was good. Is this one very spicy or not? Have you ever been spanked in your life and enjoyed it?
Speaker A
this one is amazing it smells really good and it supposedly purified the house yeah smells like hippie no but it's interesting the shamans are very very well respected in the inca culture they cure everything they do ceremonies good yeah
Speaker A
Yeah, me neither. I don't like pain, except which is pain with the pepper. Brutalized with the pepper, I like that. That's really okay. Tiradito, a flounder dressed with pecans, lime, ají limo, and sesame oil, which clearly Eric likes. This is totally going
Speaker A
mountains we're stopping off to meet our shaman he's going to teach us how to do the bath for the plants and for us okay vibrations [Music] oh close your eyes we cleaned you and you wish you a lot of success
Speaker A
to the Berlin. Oh really? Yeah. So you're not like foraging and the cat skills for your inspiration? You basically just rip your ideas off of small businessmen? Javier: Estupendo. Chinese and Japanese immigrants came to Peru in great numbers in the 19th and
Speaker A
paltrow's colon after a three-month juice cleanse to a successful harvest but we're not done we got to transport this stuff to our trees and finish the job ourselves i know you're not going to believe it but the energy has changed
Speaker A
20th centuries as contract laborers and farmers, and their influence is felt here, particularly in the food, to a greater degree than anywhere else on the continent. It's that influence and the ingredients of Amazonia and the Andes that really distinguishes
Speaker A
meet-up with this guy chris curtin master chocolatier and our business partner in this knuckleheaded adventure one of life's great joys eating in a peruvian market i love markets for breakfast it's nice so sopa de gallina basically a hen soup
Speaker A
the food here as something special. Well, what is this tofu? Uh, this is a very kooky combination. I mean, is that pineapple? Where'd that come from? That's not tradition. I mean, he looks Asian to me, right? I believe he's probably... Dude,
Speaker A
much what we're here to look at yes absolutely where where it comes from what's involved eric ate some of chris's chocolate heard about these wild cacao trees he was sourcing from in peru and promptly got me involved in this
Speaker A
his name is Juan. I mean, unless he's a retired porn star, this shouldn't be good, but it is. We're going to have a sweat on that one. Yeah, I might have a couple more beers after this piece goes sour and then have a nice nap
Speaker A
chocolate bar good thing for the world or exploitative opportunism yet to be determined what do i after all know about chocolate next the freaking nothing that's good like that right like oliver twist there yeah we used to eat like that at the
Speaker A
midday. Now. [Music] One more day in Lima, the chance to delve a bit further into the cuisine before things get a little more old school. It's a special cocktail that we prepared here. It has a kind of plant that we find in the jungle. It has
Speaker A
vigilante dudes who run a roadblock here outside of town it looks like a shakedown but they're a welcome sight this hill where cars have to slow down was where all sorts of high women and miscreants used to waylay
Speaker A
culantro, culantro. It's like cilantro, but it's long leaves, much more powerful in flavor. It would be wrong not to point out that Peru, along with Brazil, is at the forefront of a movement celebrating the incredible and unique larder
Speaker A
rain and mud which can mean flooded streets and streams that cut right across the roads and there's this the river in the best of circumstances a fairly adventurous way to get your vehicles across a long line across a fast-moving current
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of ingredients from the Andes and the Amazon, flavors you find no place else on earth. There seems to be a lot of interest in the last decade in the Amazon, because it's an amazing spectrum of entirely new, to most of us, flavors and
Speaker A
a cold beer and let somebody else figure it out yeah so let's go on the boat to my crew i say good luck we're headed for what looks like a bar on the other side we'd like to go to
Speaker A
ingredients. Pedro Miguel Schiaffino is at the cutting edge of exactly that territory. His restaurant Malabar explores the rivers, the ocean, the landscape of Peru, highlighting a range of products that are stunning in their diversity and, to us anyway, their newness. Wow, this
Speaker A
dry beer the marignon canyon is home to a wide range of species including and most interesting to us a strain of cacao previously thought to be almost extinct a few years ago the valley's cacao trees were genetically tested at a usda lab
Speaker A
one is... You've got breadfruit, tuna, and the cashew sauce. That is with a plantain vinegar.
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for over 40 years they're just absolutely beautiful when they start out absolutely really kooky look at pods as they just come right off the trunk of the tree they sort of look like somebody you know glued them to the side
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of a tree you know this is a once a year crop it goes continuously but this is the peak season see the way it comes out try that like the one in your mouth bite it and you see those the nibs
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inside those are the coconuts so where does chocolate come from the bean okay here's where chocolate comes from the trees produce pods you split open the pods and take out the beans the buyer sun dries the beans then
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roasts them after roasting the beans are extracted from their shells and ground up producing chocolate liquor mix this concentrate with milk sugar cocoa butter and you get what we call commercial chocolate now our chocolate bar sells for a nosebleed price that's
Speaker A
high by even premium chocolate standards so where does the money go and most importantly to me and eric are we doing a good thing here's how it breaks down the raw cacao costs one chunk labor the inner sleeve this much
Speaker A
design box packaging this much various sundry equipment and miscellaneous another small chunk chris me and eric each get a slice out of every bar that leaves this much which the retailer takes chef bleeding heart hippie here has already convinced me to give whatever
Speaker A
meager profits we make off our first bar to a local charity so what's unusual about these pods these beans extremely high quality flavor fought not around for a while this was what almost all chocolate was made up over
Speaker A
120 years ago right and now it's kind of making him a giant comeback i mean there's a chocolate here this is a once in a lifetime find now about 40 of the beans from these trees have got white cacao beans mixed in
Speaker A
the rest are purplish in color but we've heard of an ultra rare group of trees elsewhere further up the mountains that produce pods with a hundred percent all pure white beans and that's something me and eric are very interested in
Speaker A
down the road but for now don fortonato's daughter johanna has prepared us a traditional peruvian mountain meal wow juanes are rice dumplings with boiled egg chicken and achiote inside wow this is amazing and not surprisingly some kui or guinea
Speaker A
pig of which there seems to be many around for the taking this preparation served with a cacao sauce oh that's good all of this food is delicious so chocolate particular chocolate it's a luxury food item yes this is an area that's abundant with
Speaker A
coffee chocolate fruit how's life for the locals [Music] it says that 20 years ago 25 years ago it was easier for him he was planting soybeans right and coffee and he was making much more money and then he didn't plant soybeans any
Speaker A
longer and then the coffee production went down so therefore yet a financial struggle for a while and now with the cacao trees that they are planting he has no more stress and is fairly happy himself [Music] i'm in the marignon canyon of peru with
Speaker A
my friend and partner in chocolate bars chef eric repair eric and i are intrigued by these ultra rare all-white beans we heard about from don fortunato so we set up a meeting with another farmer don ed alberto elsewhere in the valley
Speaker A
[Music] now we thought it would be a nice gesture give it all the high-test culinary talent between us to make him and his family dinner in return for his hospitality what are you thinking look what they are squabs butterfly marinade grill
Speaker A
we can do that we have this nice sausage we have sausage which would be nice to throw in with stew or chorizo chicken onion maybe some peppers a little bit of spice i'm taking chorizo and potatoes so we're
Speaker A
kind of moving into the spanish what's it called uh zarzuela but uh and we can even use shrimp from the guy shrimp and chicken works that sounds like a plan [Music] you have 24 yeah successful uh yeah so far but wait until
Speaker A
uh we arrived there it's going to be interesting don't be a downer man i'm optimistic [Music] we arrive at the village where the fabled white cacao beans are said to be growing and meet with the village's unofficial mayor and our cacao farmer
Speaker A
don roberto who will lead us to the trees okay we're going to follow him what was depicted as a short walk up a slight incline turns out to be an epic hump up one hill after another when you're tired you tell us we stop
Speaker A
okay when i slump to the ground and urinate all over myself that'll be a tip that i probably want to stop another reason i hate the swiss mountains i love mountains eric who grew up in the pyrenees is up
Speaker A
the slopes like a gazelle me i feel every year of my misspent life with every step oh geez oh are we there here no no no we're not there it's a baby he's rafting because he has only 22 trees
Speaker A
i wish i could hear you over the side of my exploding capillaries okay by the time we get near the fabled trees i'm toast gasping for air ready to puke from the altitude and the exertion [Music] so tell us again what's unique about
Speaker A
these trees it's because they're all white beans which is a rarity okay so these are the only known hundred percent pure national okay and why is that good it's a new variety and gives different uh flavor profiles to it yeah
Speaker A
a good flavor profile yes i'm assuming because i just humped up a big excuse me [Music] [Music] yeah that's it there we go remember the shaman well we still have stuff to do with that package he gave us
Speaker A
we do presumably want a good crop better get right with the spirit world oh oh jeez a little shaman juice thrown around bury the purified soil and there you go chocolate magnates yeah good luck dude to a good harvest
Speaker A
the trip downhill unsurprisingly is a lot easier on me time for me in chef repair to get cooking [Music] back to basics wood fire ingredients from the morning market in this old school recycling system here little fella i'm ready for the
Speaker A
chicken okay here we go and the red wine notice how i neatly maneuvered you into the job so now we have to make the mashed potato and we're good eric's mashed potato secret around 50 butter ah the glory that is
Speaker A
france i think they call it gout okay let's do it [Music] he's the only guy who was the white cacao he asked all the farmers of the village here to do exactly what he has done so the other farmers are starting to
Speaker A
copy him right and he's happy because it's going to bring wealth in the village and the valley and the community afterwards don alberto makes a traditional unsweetened hot chocolate preparation ground cacao nibs and hot water no milk no sweeteners no nothing just like the
Speaker A
ancient kings liked it here we go gracias wow the real deal only water and this is what they they really used to cover before chocolate hit europe this is what the aztec kings would drink i will be jealous right now
Speaker A
[Music] since i have nothing you'll get yours [Music] eventually [Music] yes so did we do the right thing is it all right for two new yorkers to make money however much or however little off the work of struggling farmers
Speaker A
in a faraway land fortunato ed alberto chris everybody down the line all the way to the families who pick the pods off the trees seem pretty happy to be doing what they're doing but do i want to be
Speaker A
in the chocolate business that's something i'm going to have to figure out but for now one last thing needs to be done to fulfill our shamanic obligations guys you have to get out the guy is coming with his
Speaker A
bike and he doesn't care a bridge a bundle of eucalyptus leaves a badly working lighter gotta get right it smells like gunja [Music] you have a lighter we need to burn this stuff and pass it around our bodies
Speaker A
three times [Music] got something on it oh it's so too moist oh you got it man okay smoking not smoking i'm gonna get it hold on that's it now i got it let's do it okay ah yeah yeah it's coming i got it
Speaker A
we did it it's over okay done [Music] hey we have a problem with chocolate i tell you that getting into the coffee business [Music] you
Topics:Anthony BourdainPeruLimacevichePeruvian cuisinecacaochocolateEric RipertParts Unknownfood travel











