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Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown | Paraguay | S04 E03 | All Documentary

Anthony Bourdain explores Paraguay in Parts Unknown, searching for his lost great-great-great-grandfather Jean Urbain Bourdain, while sampling local food and uncovering the country's dictators, Nazi r

Key Takeaways

  • Paraguay's history is marked by authoritarian rule, from colonial-era dictators to the Stroessner regime, shaping the national character.
  • Paraguayan food reflects its mixed Spanish and Guaraní heritage and its cattle-based economy.
  • Utopian and immigrant colonization efforts left lasting cultural traces, but many ended in failure.
  • Bourdain's personal search reveals how family history can be elusive, incomplete, and mythologized.

What the video covers

  • Bourdain sets out to trace his great-great-great-grandfather Jean Urbain Bourdain, who emigrated to South America in the 1850s and was reported dead in Paraguay.
  • The episode opens at Lido Bar in Asunción, a working-class gathering place where Bourdain samples traditional Paraguayan dishes such as sopa paraguaya, chipa, and empanadas.
  • Paraguay is presented as a little-known country of about six million people, largely hot jungle and scrub desert (the Chaco), with Asunción as its remote capital.
  • The country's history is discussed, including a long succession of dictators beginning in 1811, including Francia, the López father and son, and Alfredo Stroessner, whose regime relied on secret police.
  • Madame Eliza Lynch, Irish-born companion of Francisco Solano López, is profiled, including the notorious riverboat incident involving food thrown into the river.
  • The episode covers utopian colonies, such as the Nueva Germania and Nouveau Bordeaux settlements, and the broader reputation of Paraguay as a refuge for fleeing Nazis.
  • A private investigator, Pedro, is brought in to help search for records and possible gravesites of Jean Bourdain.
  • Bourdain reflects on his own family history, including his father dying at 57 and the possibility that he is the longest-living male Bourdain.
  • The episode highlights Paraguay's cattle economy, beef culture, and history of smuggling and counterfeiting.
  • The episode closes with Bourdain's reflections on the country's contradictions and his sense of its unusual charm.

Answers

Questions about this video

Why does Anthony Bourdain travel to Paraguay in this episode?

Bourdain travels to Paraguay to trace his great-great-great-grandfather Jean Urbain Bourdain, who emigrated to South America in the 1850s and was reported to have died there. He combines this personal search with exploration of the country's food and history.

What is Lido Bar in Asunción known for?

Lido Bar is a long-standing gathering place in Asunción where working-class Paraguayan food is served to people from all walks of life. Bourdain describes it as the city's central switchboard.

Who was Madame Eliza Lynch?

Madame Eliza Lynch was an Irish-born woman who became the companion and later the influential figure around Francisco Solano López, Paraguay's president. The episode describes her as ambitious and socially driven, and notes her notorious riverboat incident.

Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown

00:00
Speaker A
i'm told you're a man who can help me. Sometime in the mid-19th century, in the 1850s, my great-great-great-grandfather Jean Urbain emigrated to South America. I was reported to have died here. He might have been a seeker of utopian dreams. You know, my aunt used to tell stories. He was into arms smuggling, or who knows? You know, no idea.
00:34
Speaker A
dreams you know my aunt used to tell stories he was into arms smuggling or who knows you know no idea [Applause] [Music] i took a felt the cool rain on my shoulders [Applause] [Music] oh [Applause] [Music] for most people paraguay is an empty
01:51
Speaker A
[Applause]
02:13
Speaker A
from the oppressive heat [Music] a thousand miles upriver from the atlantic ocean sits asuncion paraguay's remote capital city [Music] known largely for being a post-war refuge for fleeing nazis and a long line of extremely unpleasant dictators this place of all the places in the
02:49
Speaker A
[Music]
03:12
Speaker A
first started paraguay yes lido bar in asuncion has always been like the central switchboard a gathering place [Music] ladies and orange vests cook and serve old school paraguayan working class food to people from every walk of life this place is very unique
03:34
Speaker A
I took a... felt the cool rain on my shoulders.
03:53
Speaker A
used to be cattle and smuggling these days it's still cattle and some smuggling you see a lot of beef is what i'm saying hmm that's good [Music] this country is a mystery to to most people what little we know of the
04:08
Speaker A
[Applause]
04:20
Speaker A
pedro is a private investigator one of a team of people i sent out looking for the mysterious lost bourdain what kind of investigations are you called upon to do normally is uh counterfeiting ah this is sort of the counterfeiting capital of
04:34
Speaker A
[Music]
04:48
Speaker A
so general alfredo strussner was the last of his kind in paraguay of german heritage he ruled the country until 1989 with a quiet bavarian charm but behind the scenes was another thing utilizing an outfit of ss trained secret police referred to as
05:06
Speaker A
Oh.
05:22
Speaker A
country crazy tragic violence let me put you this way things are changing a lot and now things are getting striking sometime in the mid 19th century 1850s emigrated to south america first in argentina but apparently came here that's really
05:46
Speaker A
[Applause]
06:02
Speaker A
you know my father died at 57. his father at i think 20 in his 20s i believe i'll be 58 in june i think i am the longest living male bourdain possibly ever so you're lonely in the world i am
06:19
Speaker A
[Music]
06:29
Speaker A
chocolate they've been waiting for his relatives to claim his property maybe not [Laughter] [Music] i'm trying to make some sense of this country you lived here how long i'm since 22 years too long maybe here what a strange and nice country
06:57
Speaker A
For most people, Paraguay is an empty space on the map of Latin America. A country of only six million, where a vast percentage of the land is steamy hot jungle or a huge scrub desert known simply as the Chaco. Only a few large cities offer a respite from the oppressive heat.
07:15
Speaker A
want something paraguayan yes beef it's arroz rice with fried beef with the egg on top oh done it i'm there good and there is a soup whose name is boribori that's very very old paraguayan stuff little corn balls well that looks good
07:38
Speaker A
[Music]
07:59
Speaker A
germany that means you will never go out yeah and then in 89 the wall break down and say wow you will go i haven't seen anything of this country yet but what i read was the world's backwater filled with bombed out banks that had
08:14
Speaker A
A thousand miles upriver from the Atlantic Ocean sits Asunción, Paraguay's remote capital city.
08:31
Speaker A
seldom in the history of the world have i seen any country where one after the other you've had absolutely the most maniacal insane suicidal group of piss pot dictators century after century you are right even in the stresno times that the better
08:48
Speaker A
[Music]
09:14
Speaker A
[Music] how was the soup i liked it yes was the weight of my wife well cooks it i like it better with chicken but chicken is more for saturday [Music] foreign was a very poor country the spaniards came because they thought
09:53
Speaker A
Known largely for being a post-war refuge for fleeing Nazis and a long line of extremely unpleasant dictators, this place, of all the places in the world, is where my great-great-great-grandfather Jean Bourdain disappeared without explanation sometime in the 1850s.
10:18
Speaker A
married to a paraguayan woman and when her fathers come in they automatically talk gurani and i'm more or less out uh probably mestizo society yes was it francia yeah gotta love it a nearly 200 year succession of dictators began in 1811
10:47
Speaker A
[Applause]
11:11
Speaker A
today 95 of paraguayans are of mixed spanish and guarani blood and we usually speak the two languages right so central market mercado cuatro cuatro this is the big one the biggest one the most popular one [Music] i'm hungry what's good here we opted for
11:46
Speaker A
I'm told you're a man who can help me. How do you do? Pedro. I call you Tony. Please. You're, for the first time in the country?
12:08
Speaker A
in paraguay so maybe this two comes from this size colonies from all over the world so you invite them give them the catfish soup garden [Music] that soup soup is very unique our dictator lopez his favorite soup was a corn soup and one day he ordered
12:39
Speaker A
First started Paraguay. Yes. The Lido Bar in Asunción has always been like the central switchboard, a gathering place.
12:56
Speaker A
other certainly left their marks on this country lopez was pretty much known that for putting a wrong stamp on a letter you get shot so the cook didn't want to get shot he showed up in front of lopez and said
13:10
Speaker A
[Music]
13:37
Speaker A
houses of the notorious madame lynch right exactly journalist poet and author guido rodriguez alcala has written books on paraguay's history now who exactly was madame lynch a murky background would you say there's a lot of talk about that
13:53
Speaker A
Ladies in orange vests cook and serve old-school Paraguayan working-class food to people from every walk of life. This place is very unique. Yeah, I've been here for more than 50 years.
14:11
Speaker A
built one of south america's first railways its steam engines taken out of service only a few years ago and he sent his son francisco solano lopez to europe in his mission his father had sent him out to get
14:26
Speaker A
All right, let's get something to eat. I'm hungry.
14:59
Speaker A
his son to marry a paraguayan woman and do everything by the book right paraguay's soon to be first mistress madam eliza lynch was the already married daughter of an irish doctor ambitious social climbing fond of nice things clothes imported from france they say
15:20
Speaker A
Okay. Empanadas: big envelopes of dough filled with beef, onion, and hard-cooked egg, deep-fried to perfection. Cattle is the big business of this country. It used to be cattle and smuggling. These days it's still cattle and some smuggling. You see a lot of beef, is what I'm saying.
15:43
Speaker A
tried to treat her and she wanted to be treated as the princess yes tell me about the down lynch's famous boat trip on one of her more notorious ventures as hostess madam lynch organized a grand outing to the new french colony
16:04
Speaker A
Hmm, that's good.
16:23
Speaker A
mean [ __ ] treated their hostess like so much trash and so she got upset through off-board all of the food which they were supposed to eat she had it all thrown in the river yes [Music] then she ordered the captain to stop the
16:42
Speaker A
[Music]
17:10
Speaker A
various groups with stars in their eyes came here seeking to create a utopia along ideological lines of mennonite paradise repopulate latin america with aryan germans british italians and we get everybody yes it started with the jesuit colonies yep
17:29
Speaker A
This country is a mystery to most people. What little we know of the country generally comes from Nazis and Germans hiding in Paraguay from war crimes. I mean, do you think that's an undeserved reputation?
17:54
Speaker A
grandfather was from near bordeaux so i'm curious about this whole episode of the settlement of nouveau bordeaux [Music] uh the paraguay river still as it was 150 years ago the country's main artery a thoroughfare for transporting people and goods
18:46
Speaker A
Well, I don't think... I don't think it's better, but Paraguay is a nice country. Paraguay is a beautiful country.
19:02
Speaker A
they could go to asuncion and start working on a construction place tomorrow has organized a trip up river to see new bordeaux what was hoped would be a new france in the choco fish we bought today 14 kilo right
19:24
Speaker A
Pedro is a private investigator, one of a team of people I sent out looking for the mysterious lost Bourdain. What kind of investigations are you called upon to do normally?
20:07
Speaker A
a fishing lure and shotgun salesman peter what are the shotguns for bandits varmints with the johann deer and water pig guppy butter that's a peacemaker any rogue nazis we could shoot now i am tempted by the offer of a cheap shotgun
20:30
Speaker A
Is uh... counterfeiting. Ah, this is sort of the counterfeiting capital of the world. In the old days, it is said that much of this counterfeiting had partners in the government. Not so much anymore. I rather don't answer that. I mean, I'm not a politician, and I live in here.
20:59
Speaker A
damn sure i'm eating on this boat trip ah the most important part of any meal cold frosty beverages i started early here cheers oh here we go thank you grilled fish in a mango salsa you have the two most appreciated fish
21:27
Speaker A
General Alfredo Stroessner was the last of his kind in Paraguay, of German heritage. He ruled the country until 1989 with a quiet Bavarian charm, but behind the scenes was another thing, utilizing an outfit of SS-trained secret police referred to as the "Hairy-Footed Ones." He tortured and tossed dissidents out of helicopters over the jungle. The list goes on. Under Stroessner, one in four Paraguayans is said to have cooperated, willingly or not, and paid informers on their fellow citizens.
21:49
Speaker A
there came about 400 people they were supposed to be about 1 000. they were supposed to be most of them farmers but just 86 were farmers who were the other people they were tailors they were shoemakers musicians teachers and
22:07
Speaker A
It's quite a history in this country. Crazy, tragic violence. Let me put it this way: things are changing a lot, and now things are getting interesting.
22:27
Speaker A
and you have all the ticks and all kinds of vermin a flat land of cactus and thorns and misery and cannibals there was the indians the guayakuru coming down the river and killing everybody there was the lengua who if you entered
22:46
Speaker A
Sometime in the mid-19th century, the 1850s, he emigrated to South America, first in Argentina, but apparently came here. That's really almost all I know for sure. Did he die by the sword? Did he die of old age? Did he die of syphilis?
23:12
Speaker A
[Music] there's nothing much left of nouveau bordeaux i'm told a small museum of artifacts the site where the colony once briefly existed is now called via highs the mental contracted them was given money for each settler perhaps there was
23:36
Speaker A
I have no idea. I'd like to know. I'd love to find a gravesite. That would be great. You know, my father died at 57, his father at, I think, 20-something. I believe I'll be 58 in June. I think I am the longest-living male Bourdain, possibly ever.
23:48
Speaker A
anything you'll live like kings it's elections just reach up in the trees and fruit and gold bars are dropping in fact they was thrown out in the coast and say here you are that's your land go ahead these poor french guys show up right uh
24:22
Speaker A
So you're lonely in the world?
24:41
Speaker A
the settlers quickly discovered that farming is hard work and that the conditions in the chaco in no way resembled the new france of their dreams it was a big snake so they get broke and they decide to leave the colony
24:58
Speaker A
I am lonely in the world. Yes. If I could solve the mystery of the elusive Jean Bourdain, that would make me very happy. By the way, it would be terrific if you found out that he owned a huge ranch in the Chaco. They've been waiting for his relatives to claim his property. Maybe not.
25:17
Speaker A
cattle country turns quickly to dust [Music] so [Music] so you guys have some information perhaps on the elusive jean bourdain here i don't know what he did here of course i'm hoping for something you know extremely glamorous a river pirate gun runner drug smuggler
26:19
Speaker A
[Laughter]
26:40
Speaker A
i contact with another historians and genealogists around the world and the history of your family is very interesting so really yeah okay interesting yeah your family your grandfather jamborden came to montevideo following the song okay the facts as i know them
27:01
Speaker A
[Music]
27:17
Speaker A
arriving there he is in that time he works with a chocolate with a hammock hat maker i'm pretty sure he said hat maker which i have to say disappoints me like a lot and here you see chapalier the whole elusive wing of mysterious
27:35
Speaker A
I'm trying to make some sense of this country. You lived here how long?
27:54
Speaker A
assumption madame lynch might have been good for business i'm trying to put this in a light i could be enthusiastic about like how clearly forward thinking by relatives work his customers as a hat maker the very people who treated maram lynch with such
28:07
Speaker A
I'm since 22 years. Too long, maybe.
28:22
Speaker A
okura french fashion there was money to be made they were i'm bummed brought after this episode with the new bordeaux group came the triple alliance war jamboree died in 1858 yes before it was a good time to die because
28:44
Speaker A
Here, what a strange and nice country.
29:08
Speaker A
rather unkind to his siblings his two brothers were tortured and killed right and the sisters were jailed taken into tiger cages tiger cakes and the mother was given some beating right 60 something you're 60 something year old mother
29:27
Speaker A
[Music]
29:45
Speaker A
expansionist ambitions he dragged paraguay into the triple alliance war he essentially challenged all three neighbors brazil argentina and uruguay to war this doesn't seem like a good idea in what would become the bloodiest war in latin america's history
30:04
Speaker A
Go to Paraguay, find a German to show you around. Not so crazy, or unrepresentative. People came to this country from everywhere, to, as Emerson called it, make their own world.
30:22
Speaker A
because otherwise he was going to be enrolled in the army lopez eventually he was hunted down madame lynch survived yes she survived but with her money i mean she was allowed to keep her possessions yes [Music] in history it's hard to find a more
30:45
Speaker A
Peter, I'm Tony. Nice to meet you. So, what's good to eat here? I suppose you want something Paraguayan?
31:13
Speaker A
000 people so that's why you could easily understand why there was nothing here for 100 years [Music] jean-bordeaux dies here yes before they replace a alien saguaro an adult natural of france by the name of juan bourdain right uh cause of death not
31:56
Speaker A
Yes. Beef. It's arroz, rice with fried beef, with the egg on top.
32:55
Speaker A
greasy savory juicy and nasty this is it the legendary libido right that's what today's people eat in the streets of asuncion an egg a little runny please some kind of meat like beef patty thing throw on your lettuce of tomato two
33:15
Speaker A
Oh, done. I'm there. Good. And there is a soup whose name is sopa paraguaya, that's very, very old Paraguayan stuff. Little corn balls.
33:28
Speaker A
in my stomach now sandwich it awesome awesome good good awesome all my greasy meat dreams have come true that's good and at the last moment and the last thing i give a steaming loaf about anymore is my long dead relatives
33:45
Speaker A
Well, that looks good. It looks very good. Ah, yeah, that's good, man.
34:07
Speaker A
bringing 200 boxes of fireworks fireworks fireworks like firecrackers there is not even more than 200 or 300 wealthy families who sometimes in a birthday would crack a little bit uh-huh suggesting something untoward weapons weapons yeah he was a merchant of death
34:36
Speaker A
[Music]
34:50
Speaker A
a cover job was he a hat maker slash arms are all these local researchers historians and geniuses on the money here was great great great grampy and arms dealer so hat baker needs 200 tons of gunpowder i've got you now shop or down i've got
35:11
Speaker A
I'm trying to make some sense of this country. You've lived here how long?
35:32
Speaker A
here in recoleta the rich people cemetery yeah we can pretty well say on which area he remains [Music] he is there wow [Music] well i guess we'll have to go look huh definitely yeah [Music] sorry little buddy there's no escaping
36:33
Speaker A
22 years.
36:48
Speaker A
been in the family going all the way back to the triple alliance war hard no good life we are pretty happy here we have everything 20 years ago the juggle was not used and the last years it's booming where's
37:07
Speaker A
Why'd you come here in the first place?
37:28
Speaker A
asado if you have the sausages chorizo marcia eat this all day and i will plus barbecue you are complete [Laughter] [Music] [Music] that's awesome so were there a lot of vegetarians in this part of paraguay i don't know
38:14
Speaker A
I was born in East Germany, and East Germany, that means you will never go out. Yeah. And then in '89 the wall broke down, and I said, "Wow, I will go." I hadn't seen anything of this country yet, but what I read was the world's backwater, filled with bombed-out banks that had been looted, institutions that didn't work, everyone carried a gun. It was like the Wild West but poorer. It's not that anymore.
38:40
Speaker A
a gun buy a gun this was not the paraguay i expected it's too different a song for you a welcome song to the foreign [Music] people it says it not says welcome stranger it says welcome brother stranger [Music]
39:44
Speaker A
A bit of this is true. I, by myself, got a .45 on my head last week. That's pretty common stuff for me.
40:34
Speaker A
right something on top [Music] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] you
Topics:Anthony BourdainParts UnknownParaguayAsunciónParaguayan cuisineStroessnerMadame LynchNazi refugeutopian coloniestravel documentary

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