Speaker A
oh i am so confused it wasn't supposed to be like this. Of all the places, of all the countries, all the years of traveling, it's here in Iran that I'm greeted most warmly by total strangers.
Anthony Bourdain explores Iran in Parts Unknown S04E06, sharing warm encounters, Tehran's food and art scene, and the complicated politics behind the headlines.
Key Takeaways
- Iranian hospitality and everyday warmth often contradict the political image presented abroad.
- Iran's cultural identity is shaped by ancient Persian heritage, Islamic traditions, and Western influences.
- Food and family hospitality are central to Iranian social life and cultural expression.
- Daily life involves constant negotiation between state restrictions and personal freedom.
- Understanding Iran requires separating political headlines from the lived experience of its people.
What the video covers
- Bourdain arrives in Iran and is struck by the warm welcome he receives from strangers, contrasting with how Iran is portrayed in Western news.
- The episode explores Tehran, a city of nearly eight million, and its layered history of political upheaval, including the Iranian Hostage Crisis.
- Bourdain examines the tension between Iran's ancient Persian heritage and its modern clerical and military government.
- Social life is shown as a constant negotiation with restrictions, such as limits on alcohol, music, and public expression.
- Food is central: Chelo kebab, Persian rice with saffron, and regional home-cooked dishes reflecting family traditions and hospitality.
- Contemporary art emerges as an exploding scene, with curators and artists discussing a culture blending Western, Iranian, and Islamic influences.
- Women's rights and social change are discussed, including assertive Iranian women pushing against conservative expectations.
- Jason Rezaian, a Washington Post correspondent, and his wife Yeganeh share perspectives on journalism, sanctions, and daily life.
- Spontaneous public singing and everyday life in Esfahan and Tehran highlight the country's cultural vibrancy.
- Bourdain concludes that visiting Iran and meeting its people challenges assumptions and is worthwhile.
Chapters
- 00:00Arrival and First Impressions
- 03:00Iran's Ancient and Modern History
- 07:00Tehran Life and Escaping the Heat
- 12:00Restrictions, Social Life, and Politics
- 16:00Food: Kebabs, Persian Rice, and Home Cooking
- 22:00Art, Music, and Public Expression
- 29:00Journalists and Everyday Perspectives
- 36:00Women's Rights and Closing Reflections
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
Speaker A
we've read about heard about scene in the news but this this i wasn't prepared for felt the cool rain on my shoulder [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] uh [Music] good to be here finally it's taken some
Speaker A
The other stuff, it's there. The Iran we've read about and heard about on the scene in the news, but this, this I wasn't prepared for.
Speaker A
see a country i'd heard so much about the weather's nice too i don't know what i was expecting but it's nice a big blank spot on nearly every traveler's resume mercy delicious thank you once upon a time there was an ancient
Speaker A
Felt the cool rain on my shoulder.
Speaker A
magical black stuff is ours to keep but the other kingdoms were afraid of losing all the magical black stuff so they gave money to some bad men to get rid of the leader they put back in power another leader
Speaker A
Good to be here, finally. It's taken some time, like a lot of time, like four years of trying. Finally, Tehran, city of nearly eight million people, capital of Iran.
Speaker A
and then things started to get really messed up okay that's a simplistic and incomplete way to sum up the last hundred odd years of iranian history but the point is there were a lot of issues and differing agendas leading up to the explosion of
Speaker A
This neighborhood feels kind of like their neighborhoods of Rome. This feels a lot like after all this time, I finally had my chance to see a country I'd heard so much about.
Speaker A
could be forgiven for finding these undeniable truths hard to reconcile with how we're treated on the streets everywhere we go so forget about the politics if you can for a moment how about the food the food here is
Speaker A
The weather's nice too. I don't know what I was expecting, but it's nice. A big blank spot on nearly every traveler's resume.
Speaker A
contemporary art which is an exploding scene here iranian country has three different cultures western culture iranian and islamic culture it's really progress it has changed a lot during last decade so this is the actual menu right i would
Speaker A
Mercy, delicious, thank you.
Speaker A
so tony first you should take the butter and put it on your eyes bon appetit [Music] it was a hopeful time when i arrived in iran a window it opened there have been a slight loosening of restrictions since
Speaker A
Once upon a time, there was an ancient kingdom where they found a lot of magical black stuff under the ground.
Speaker A
but there's a push happening between opposing factions in the government on one hand iranians are the descendants of ancient persia an empire of poetry flowers the highly influential culture that goes back thousands of years but the ruling clerical and military
Speaker A
But two other kingdoms had the key to the magical black stuff, and when they wouldn't share, the people of the ancient kingdom got mad. They voted, and their leader said the magical black stuff is ours to keep.
Speaker A
days this is a line that is constantly being tested alcohol is of course forbidden you can get away with listening to rock or rap sort of sometimes but you cannot yourself rock or be seen to visibly rock [Music]
Speaker A
But the other kingdoms were afraid of losing all the magical black stuff, so they gave money to some bad men to get rid of the leader. They put back in power another leader, and they gave him money too.
Speaker A
think [Music] hmm we are in this northernmost spit of land in tehran up here in darband the road stops and it gets really steep place for iranians to escape the heat escape the pollution and have a kebab and a shisha
Speaker A
Some he was a good king, but to others he could be very cruel. After many years, the people of the kingdom got mad. This time, even more, so they scared the king away forever.
Speaker A
what we're telling you we're seeing in front of our eyes is actually there when you walk down the street you see a different side of things people are proud the culture is vibrant uh people have a lot to say jason
Speaker A
And then things started to get really messed up.
Speaker A
in general seems to be ever shifting how is fun even a good idea um a lot of push and pull a lot of give and take when i first started coming here you wouldn't hear pop music in a in a restaurant or uh no it's
Speaker A
Okay, that's a simplistic and incomplete way to sum up the last hundred odd years of Iranian history, but the point is there were a lot of issues and differing agendas leading up to the explosion of rage known as the Iranian Hostage Crisis.
Speaker A
people will say when you say well i'm going to run but don't they make women do this that yeah actually not so much not as much as our friends compare and contrast women aren't allowed to drive in saudi
Speaker A
Look, we know what Iran the government does. George W. Bush famously called them part of the Axis of Evil. Their proxies in Iraq have done American soldiers real harm. There is no doubt of this, but I hope I could be forgiven for finding these undeniable truths hard to reconcile with how we're treated on the streets everywhere we go.
Speaker A
can't go watch football we cannot women's issues are often at the spear point of change or possible change here on one hand prevailing conservative attitudes demand certain things on the other hand iranian women are famously assertive opinionated it's
Speaker A
So forget about the politics if you can for a moment. How about the food? The food here is amazing.
Speaker A
at a point now after five years where uh i miss certain things about home i miss my buddies i miss uh burritos i miss having certain beverages with my buddies and burritos and certain types of establishments um but i love it i love it
Speaker A
Chelo kebab, as close as you get to a national dish and the king of kebabs. Ground lamb with spices, a good place to start.
Speaker A
episode jason and jagane were mysteriously arrested and detained by the police sadly in iran this sort of thing is not an isolated incident [Music] [Music] me what is okay to film in iran and what is not okay for the friendly to us at least
Speaker A
So what do you guys do for a living?
Speaker A
for iranians [Music] people have been ridiculously nice to us aren't you guys supposed to be the axis of evil you're absolutely right we are demonized by the media outside you show black and white people are demonstrating and killing and
Speaker A
I export nuts. I'm a curator of contemporary art, which is an exploding scene here.
Speaker A
we and americans have a very special place in this military you cannot play a game without considering your god as a friend one of farouk's many passions is ancient persia culinary history in particular and he's writing a book on the subject
Speaker A
Iranian country has three different cultures: Western culture, Iranian, and Islamic culture. It's really progressing. It has changed a lot during the last decade.
Speaker A
mesopotamia 6000 years ago potato chickpeas water lamb cooked together add a little fat mash it up with potatoes and chickpeas that's good what do iranians want to eat today it's a home cooking culture i mean yes we didn't have the culture of eating out
Speaker A
So this is the actual menu, right? I would recommend you try this one, and this one, and this one.
Speaker A
[Music] this is a land of secret recipes passed down within families like treasured possessions mr tony beautiful spread of food she's my wife and i'm a really lucky man she's very good cookies beijon like so many other iranians i've met
Speaker A
Okay, why not? Kebab wouldn't be complete without Persian rice, fluffy, long-grained, and perfectly seasoned with saffron. The rice in this country is like nothing you've ever had.
Speaker A
walnuts pomegranate and tomato paste and there's fruit some kind of fruit yes there is the dry apricot inside this as well delicious so good knead it around 24 hours time these are very sophisticated very time consuming dishes to prepare always
Speaker A
So Tony, first you should take the butter and put it on your eyes. Bon appétit!
Speaker A
maybe if i could try some uh yes thank you for us and that one is caime they made it with beans meat it's so good fantastic food man and wife both of them working you know it's hard to do something like
Speaker A
It was a hopeful time when I arrived in Iran. A window opened. There have been a slight loosening of restrictions since the election of President Hassan Rouhani, and there was optimism for a deal that could lead to an easing of crippling economic sanctions imposed because of Iran's continued nuclear program. Trade restrictions have been very, very difficult for everyone.
Speaker A
at least two or three kind of foods and if they make just one they thinks that it is not very polite for a guest but nowadays for example for my generation when i have a guest i would just make
Speaker A
But there's a push happening between opposing factions in the government. On one hand, Iranians are the descendants of ancient Persia, an empire of poetry and flowers, the highly influential culture that goes back thousands of years. But the ruling clerical and military class are at best ambivalent, at worst actively hostile to much of that tradition. Severe religious-based restrictions of speech, dress, and behavior were ushered in by the rise of the Ayatollah during the 1979 Islamic Revolution.
Speaker A
supreme leader ayatollah khomeini's word became more or less law today hundreds of thousands of iranians are bussed to his enormous shrine from all over the country [Music] a national holiday khomeini died on this day in 1989.
Speaker A
So how does one have fun in Iran these days?
Speaker A
[Music] esfahan is iran's third largest city half the world as the saying went back when this was the capital of persia and beyond the city is renowned for its architecture the grandest bridges and mosques dating back to the middle ages
Speaker A
This is a line that is constantly being tested. Alcohol is, of course, forbidden. You can get away with listening to rock or rap, sort of, sometimes, but you cannot yourself rock, or be seen to visibly rock.
Speaker A
former wrestler's hangout [Music] blah blah [Music] tucked deep in the labyrinth of espahan's bazaar the smell of something very very good this shop has been here doing the same thing for a hundred years and based on the line it must be doing
Speaker A
Not everyone in Iran is delighted with what their country has become since the revolution, but even insinuating discontent can have consequences. Protesters, dissidents, journalists have been simply disappeared into the maw of the national security system.
Speaker A
cinnamon mint and of course saffron more valuable than gold by weight this is delicious really good it's for is one of the most visited areas by tourists yeah everybody you know if you come to iran and you don't visit espahan
Speaker A
What is it, some military place? Don't you think?
Speaker A
a little bit of fun [Music] what [Music] [Music] [Music] my morning prayer in esfahe [Music] [Music] where men gather spontaneously to sing [Music] is this okay this impromptu giving oneself over to the creative urge to stand and sing out to no one in
Speaker A
We are in this northernmost spit of land in Tehran, up here in Darband, where the road stops and it gets really steep. A place for Iranians to escape the heat, escape the pollution, and have a kebab and a shisha and just kind of unwind.
Speaker A
foot all passed along these same routes this right here a stop on what was once the silk road extending all the way to china [Applause] [Music] in this part of the world whatever your background bread is a vital
Speaker A
As print journalists, our job's difficult, but it's also kind of easy because there's so much to write about. The difficult part is convincing people on the other side of the world that what we're telling you, we're seeing in front of our eyes, is actually there. When you walk down the street, you see a different side of things. People are proud, the culture is vibrant, people have a lot to say.
Speaker A
part of life for many iranians they bake these things on small stones it gives it that texture this is why it's called sangyaki sang is a stone pebble in the years since the 1979 revolution iranians have weathered wars food
Speaker A
Jason Rezaian is the Washington Post correspondent for Iran. Yeganeh, his wife and a fellow journalist, works for the UAE-based newspaper The National. Jason is Iranian-American. Yeganeh is a full Iranian citizen. This is their city, Tehran.
Speaker A
yes and you know what is inside except wheat it is meat it is turkey this is a mixture of sugar and cinnamon that's good you like yeah and the spread is amazing so you were how old when the war with
Speaker A
The official attitude towards fun in general seems to be ever shifting. How is fun even a good idea?
Speaker A
brother was in the france for three years out of eight and it was not only my brother many young people like him eight years of war you know with a country that is supported by many big powers and it is worth
Speaker A
Um, a lot of push and pull, a lot of give and take. When I first started coming here, you wouldn't hear pop music in a restaurant, or uh, no. It's everywhere now.
Speaker A
united states at that time they made a bad memory for iranians but still people are indeed really really nice here i mean because people here don't hate americans you helped eku and then a revolution everything and then we captured your embassy and okay
Speaker A
We have police. They arrest girls or women for having bad hijab or not being covered enough, but it's not that we leave with the police in our head, you know.
Speaker A
the way i'd expected [Music] neither east nor west but always somewhere in the middle [Music] well it looks spectacular you can't have this in a restaurant it's time consuming it's very expensive so you have to persian cuisine has to be
Speaker A
One of the first things that people will say when you say, "Well, I'm going to Iran," is, "But don't they make women do this?"
Speaker A
and here we have the sour cherry rice the meatballs and chicken sour cherries more than any other nation i think we love sauce yeah rahim the cook has been with the family for generations rice mixed with yogurt and saffron baked
Speaker A
Yeah, actually, not so much. Not as much as our friends compare and contrast. Women aren't allowed to drive in Saudi Arabia.
Speaker A
guests you don't put in it and here we have huffer which is a large baby meatball tabrizi ground beef onion and cooked rice walnuts dried apricots boiled egg and barbaries anyways we are a very interesting nation indeed very very confusing extremely
Speaker A
That's right, or vote.
Speaker A
ways you see this tortured relationship between america and iran for many years how do you think most americans will react when we never do this start coming it's very important for us as iranians to get true to make sure that we are
Speaker A
You can drive, you can vote. Yeah, of course. My sister is an accountant, she has her own company. Girls are allowed to do almost everything. Ah, except we want to go and watch football, which we can't go watch. We cannot.
Speaker A
everybody ten years ago iran was people they had hope for future young people they wanted to travel they had a little bit money but because of sanction this sanction really squeezed everybody eight years no foreign investment here and so it was very difficult
Speaker A
Women's issues are often at the spearpoint of change or possible change here. On one hand, prevailing conservative attitudes demand certain things. On the other hand, Iranian women are famously assertive and opinionated. It's a striking difference from almost everywhere else in the region.
Speaker A
not possible now for them i hope we can have more faith in the ordinary americans because every little change in the policy of the western country it really really affects our lives here the malad tower iran's tallest building
Speaker A
So why are we so friendly with the Saudis again?
Speaker A
our time in iran was coming to an end and it was impossible to say was a window opening or was it only a moment in time before it shut again [Music] you learn pretty quickly that in iran there is plenty of gray area
Speaker A
It's a great question. It's a really good question. I'm happy that you asked that question. Do you like it? You happy here?
Speaker A
last day in iran night falls and the kids like kids anywhere get in their rides and head for somewhere they could hang out amazing american classics here where where do they where do you get them uh old mans old people yeah guys right and
Speaker A
Look, I'm at a point now, after five years, where I miss certain things about home. I miss my buddies, I miss burritos, I miss having certain beverages with my buddies, and certain types of establishments. But I love it, I love it and I hate it, you know. But it's home. It's become home.
Speaker A
a little delivery one last thing everyone's been telling me i have to try iranian take out pizza [Music] it comes with ketchup what do you think about iranian pizza not bad not bad we don't put ketchup on pizza though
Speaker A
Are you optimistic about the future?
Speaker A
you just generally don't approve yeah i think those are exactly the sort of places you should go totally see who we're talking about and where we're talking about here and i think it's almost un-american not to go to those
Speaker A
Yeah, especially if this nuclear deal finally happens. Yeah, very much.
Speaker A
[Music] all i can tell you is the iran i've seen on tv and read about in the papers it's a much bigger picture let's put it this way it's complicated [Music] after 10 weeks was finally released but as i read these lines
Speaker A
Actually, despite the hopeful nature of our conversation, six weeks after the filming of this episode, Jason and Yeganeh were mysteriously arrested and detained by the police. Sadly, in Iran, this sort of thing is not an isolated incident.
Topics:Anthony BourdainParts UnknownIranTehranPersian foodchelo kebabtravel documentaryIranian culturecontemporary artIranian women
