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All right. Well, we got this lovely little pile of cherry here where we've got a really cool custom door we're making for a client. It probably takes about 600 to 700 board feet of lumber to make a door like this. There's a big
Watch Black Forest Wood Co. craft a $40K custom cherry wood door featuring bent lamination and CNC machining.
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Key Takeaways
- Bent lamination can be achieved without steam by resawing wood thin and using custom radius templates.
- Alternating grain laminations improve stability and reduce warping in critical door components.
- Using silicone for panel sealing allows wood to expand and contract while maintaining weather resistance.
- CNC machining enhances precision and repeatability but traditional methods are still viable.
- Proper acclimatization and air circulation of lumber are essential for successful woodworking projects.
What the video covers
- The video showcases the making of a large custom cherry wood door for a client, requiring 600-700 board feet of lumber.
- A key feature is the bent lamination for the curved top jamb and middle jamb piece, done without steam or moisture.
- Wood is resawn thin (around 2mm) and sanded to allow bending with multiple radii for the curved components.
- The team uses a combination of manual and CNC machining to shape and profile the door components.
- Laminating thinner pieces with alternating grain reduces warping, especially on the handle side stile.
- The door panel is glued with Titebond 3 for joinery and sealed with silicone to allow seasonal wood expansion.
- Air circulation and acclimatization of lumber are critical before final machining to ensure stability.
- The video also touches on finishing techniques and decorative hardware choices to match the door style.
- The entire process emphasizes craftsmanship, precision, and problem-solving for a high-end custom door.
- The video includes detailed explanations of tools, materials, and techniques used throughout the build.
Chapters
- 00:00Introduction and Lumber Preparation
- 01:32Bent Lamination Process Explained
- 03:44Lumber Identification and Opening Up
- 05:22Air Circulation and Thicknessing for CNC
- 07:46Manual vs CNC Machining Techniques
- 09:37Glue-Up and Assembly Challenges
- 12:06Final Fitting and Installation
- 20:13Finishing Touches and Hardware Installation
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
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bend that Leic has been working on over here that we're doing for the jamb. It's kind of a really neat curved top jamb.
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And I'm going to start cutting it up and milling away.
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client ended up going with cherry. And recently, cherry has been quite a popular wood species. We're seeing a little bit of a trend where people are going back to preferring these warmer wood tones, and cherry is a perfect way
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This client commissioned us to replace the solid wood door that they already have in their home with a brand new door from us. Like my dad mentioned, this
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client ended up going with cherry. And recently, cherry has been quite a popular wood species. We're seeing a little bit of a trend where people are going back to preferring these warmer wood tones, and cherry is a perfect way
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to achieve that. As you can see here with the drawing, this is a pretty big door unit we're working on. The entire unit size is over 8 ft tall and 5 ft wide. We've got this curved top. There's
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an upper transom and two sidelights. So, there's a lot of different components going into this door. And one of the most complicated parts of this door is the bent lamination we're going to have to do, not only for the top
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piece of the jamb, but then also that middle piece of the jamb that's going to block off the door from the transom. So, in order to do this, we don't use any steam or moisture to bend our wood. We
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do it all in its natural state. And to make that possible, we have to resaw these pieces of wood quite thin. Right around 2 mm thick is what we go for. And this radius, of course, is not just your
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standard radius. It's actually a combination of multiple radii. So you can see if you go back to that drawing, it's a little bit of a wider radius in the middle and then it gets tight on those corners. So the wood is going to
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be bending at different rates all the way around this. So, we first resaw those pieces using our bandsaw. We then send them through our SEM sander, which is able to sand nice and thin, which is perfect for an application like this.
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And once we have everything laid out, it's all hands on deck to make sure that we can get this glue-up done successfully. And here is a closer look at that drawing that I was mentioning earlier. So, you can see it's kind of an
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awkward shape. It is not consistent at all. So, we screw blocks down to our workbench that kind of match that radius. We'll make a template. We screw those blocks down. And then it's tons of glue and tons of clamps to force these
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wood pieces into place. We don't necessarily have a black and white rule of how tight of a radius is too tight before you need to steam bend. And really, the best way to learn is by breaking a couple pieces of wood. Once
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you attempt to do a few of these unsuccessfully, you will get a pretty good idea of what kind of radius you can actually bend.
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identified on the end so we can maintain piece identification. What we do is we're just going to open this lumber up.
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So, what do we got to leave? Two weeks. How long you leave? One week.
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One week. Okay. Next Friday. So typically what we do is we rough cut for width all the pieces probably 10 to 20 mm wider than a finished machining size. So that's everything for the job is on the card here. All the ends are
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identified on the end so we can maintain piece identification. What we do is we're just going to open this lumber up.
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I'm not going to plane it down to its final machine thickness. I'm going to leave it probably four to 5 mm thicker than final thickness. What happens when you open lumber up? Sometimes it's nice just to give it at least 24 hours for it
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to climatize. It's kind of like you're opening up the inside of that piece of wood. Some woods would be more prone to that than others. Cherry's usually pretty good. Walnut's really prone to this kind of movement after
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initial planing. So, I'm going to open everything up here and then we'll start machining some components tomorrow. And time to make some sawdust.
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get any movement, that can really interrupt the actual function of the piece. So, we just laminate two thinner pieces together with those gross rings alternated, and that greatly reduces the chance that you're going to have any warping. Okay, we're on to our final
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I've got stickers in between everything here just to let the air circulate through all this lumber for a period of 24 hours. And then I'll be able to take it down to my final thickness prepared for CNC machining.
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What you're seeing my dad and Leic work on here right now is a lamination for the stile on the handle side of the door. And that's not because we couldn't find wood thick enough to yield this. It's so that we can get
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increased stability out of this piece of wood. In our experience, we found if you just use one unlaminated piece of wood, that handle-side stile has a higher chance of warping. And being that it's on the handle side of the door, if you
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get any movement, that can really interrupt the actual function of the piece. So, we just laminate two thinner pieces together with those grain rings alternated, and that greatly reduces the chance that you're going to have any warping.
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that are going to do the style and rail profiles that allow us to achieve our glue ups, but it was all done manually on our shapers. So, same result, just takes a lot more time and not quite as
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Okay, we're on to our final stage of thicknessing material for this beautiful cherry door that we're working on. And then the major part of the machining process. Here we've got the panel that goes in the door. It's already been glued together and
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the beat goes on. So with the wood acclimatized, like my dad mentioned, we can now take it down to that final oversized dimension that we've programmed into the CNC machine. It's important that this is accurate because we have to tell the CNC
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machine what size of wood we're putting on. And if it varies from that, you can actually run into collisions with cutter heads and lots of nasty things that happen. Prior to us having a CNC machine, we still built lots of these
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solid wood doors. It's not like our CNC gave us the ability to do these. It's just we had to use a whole bunch of jigs and templates and our shapers. So, we would still use these big cutter bits
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that are going to do the stile and rail profiles that allow us to achieve our glue-ups, but it was all done manually on our shapers. So, same result, just takes a lot more time and not quite as
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repeatably accurate as our nice CNC machine. With the machining done, we can now move on to the glue-up process for the door itself. So, we're going to use a combination of adhesives here. We're going to use Titebond 3 for the actual
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wood joinery. So, anywhere you see those dowel holes, they're going to get plugged with solid maple dowels, and we're going to use that Titebond 3. But we can't glue this large panel in place because that's not going to allow it to
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expand and contract. That panel is pretty wide, and wood usually expands about an eighth of an inch seasonally.
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So on something like that, you know, you could get a quarter to a half an inch or even more of expansion and contraction, but we still want to have a nice seal that's going to prevent weather from coming in. So instead of our Titebond 3,
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we actually use silicone to seal our panels in. And that's something that isn't really that standard. I don't see it used all the time, but we've been doing that for 30 plus years, and it is a great way to create a perfect weather
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seal and still allow flexibility with that expansion and contraction. It is important though that you use a high-quality silicone that's not going to be brittle and be prone to fracturing.
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the corner, and we screw those corners [music] together. But with these big curved components, we have to find a way to tie in those vertical sections of the jam into the curved components. So, we're just kind of doing a big oversized
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Now that our bent lamination has been sitting in the clamps for 2 weeks, we can go back to continue our work on it.
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The Titebond 3 that we used usually only takes 24 hours to dry. But in our experience with big curved laminations like this, if you take them out of the clamps right away, you're going to get quite a bit of spring back. So, we just
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leave that workbench where it is for 2 weeks and we let this totally cure and that wood set into its new shape. Then, we have to get creative with how to machine this big curved piece. So, it's a lot of hands on deck
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to make sure that we can safely manage something that's so awkward, but we're still able to run it over the jointer.
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We're still able to cut it to width on the table saw. And same thing for the length cut. Now, with a square jamb, it's pretty easy for
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I am one 182. So we have triple this. Sure. Or you want to join. You want to move and run on the jointer.
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Um I think it's honestly just easier to do this. Like we have to move the whole planer.
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Okay. So let's let's cut let's cut from both. So we have to take you don't get a cut off this side.
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I think for this is the easy for us like this is at least from the joint.
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So we're not like taking off with exactly no we have to now figure out if this is right. We have to put the clamps. Check this gap.
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Yes, we have like a little doesn't matter. The back goes here. Okay. We run the casing on here. The front is going to be solid covered by here.
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and put that piece of good. So, this one looks pretty good, too, actually. Okay.
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Size was 2281. This is how much the jam was. At this point, the jam is essentially like one big puzzle. We've got our initial sight measurements that we're working off of. That's what my dad went and took initially at the house. So, we
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know the size of the opening that this jam has to fit in. And now, it's just a matter of cutting, testing, and fitting all of these pieces until we've created something that we're going to be relatively confident will fit in our
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client's home. Much better. Much better. Heat. Heat. That's five. Yeah, 80. And then you'll notice that Lesa and Curtis are fitting all of the components of the jam around these curved templates. So those obviously aren't going to be in the
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final door, but those are going to be what we use later on to route our sidelights to final size. If you remember from the glue up, they're still rough, oversized. They've got random shaped edges. But once we have our jam
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finalized, we can transfer that template to those side lights, route them down, and they should just slide right into place.
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It's only while this is this shape on this one, they hide the same. But there's nothing I can do.
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[snorts] Heat. Heat. We'll close it down. I just like this. So you have to measure it all cuz it won't be the same distance. I don't know.
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Maybe maybe we just do one more. We'll have to make those lamelo a little bit skinny.
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Then we have to put the We have to start putting clamps. Um, do you want to put screws in the bottom of this one right away?
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We should. Yeah. A little After we get the jam assembled, we do a test hang of everything. So, we get the side lights in, the transom in, we hang the door, and once we're confident that it's all going to function the way we
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want it to, we can move on to our finishing process. So, we like to use an oilbased finish on all of our solid wood doors. And in the 33 years that we've been constructing these doors, we've experimented quite a bit with different
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finishes. Initially, early on, we were using sprayed polyurethane coatings and they work great, but for a limited period of time is the problem, especially if there's UV exposure involved. If you're doing a polyurethane door and it's got a big overhang, it
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never sees any sun and it's really protected from the elements, it might last for decades. But as soon as you involve any kind of sun exposure into that, that polyurethane will degrade very quickly. And in extreme circumstances, we've seen finishes begin
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to flake and peel after only a couple years. So that prompted us to begin investigating oilbased finishes. And that's what we've been using now for about the past 10 years with absolutely amazing results. Ever since we made the
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switch to oil finishes, our callbacks for finish issues have essentially disappeared because there's no film formed over the wood. And if maintenance is required, it's just a matter of going on, scuffing up the door, rubbing a new coat of oil, and that thing looks brand
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new for another 5 or 10 years. After the finishing is complete, one of our last steps is to install all of the components with their proper weather stripping. So, we're putting the glass in with a gasket, and then we're cutting
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all of our moldings in solid cherry to fit around that. And we're doing the same thing for the sidelights and transom. We have this two-sided self-adhesive gasket that goes on this little rabbit we've left and all of our
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components can drop in. And that's going to create a perfect seal so our client doesn't get any drafts or moisture coming through the seams of this door.
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Heat. [music] [music] [music] Hey Heat. [music] [music] This client has a very rustic [music] theme going on to their home. It's all timber framed. It's out in the country.
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So, they wanted the door to match that style. To do that, we usually recommend the addition of these [music] decorative clavos. So, they're all solid cast metal. And we lay them out just in a few thoughtful locations, and they just kind
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of give that rustic feel to tie into everything. Yeah. These ones. Yeah. I line up the top of the top one with this.
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So, they're all Okay. But with these I'm trying to decide for these two. Yeah.
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The space between right now is about the same. But it looks kind of squished.
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Looks very squished. So or I can line up with kind of top and bottom on this.
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I think I think line with the top and bottom would be better. More like that.
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I think this would be better. Okay, good. I'm going to go with this because looks looks more consistent.
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Otherwise like looks like so good. Yeah. To me, this visually is more appealing to look at than that. Because this looks like you're Yeah.
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I know it's in line, but it looks wrong. But I'm catching the front and the back.
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Yeah. Whereas I think it should be the front and the front. Yeah. See, I'm not asking. And then the other thing is I can make the spacing the same as those ones, but then they're No, I don't.
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I It looks too squishy. Too squish. You might think I don't necessarily think you should match the curve. I think you should just draw square lines cuz your eye your eye just doesn't see the Your eye doesn't see the curve. Your eye
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sees a square a corner here that comes across. So if I'm you, I'm drawing just a straight line which actually probably brings you even a little bit higher.
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Yeah, it does. And draw a straight line there and a straight line there. And that's what I would follow. I'm glad I asked Jack if it was my door.
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That's what I would want. Now we now get to Heat. Heat. Hey, Hey, it's Brad. We're here with the crew Fawn Hills, Alberta, just west of Bright Creek. Today we're going to be taking this new custommade unit by the Black
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Forest Wood Company here and replacing the door 30 steps up at the top of these stairs here today. We got our work cut out for us. It's totally custom. It was a tough measure. Hard design to build.
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Really unique piece. Let's see how it goes. [laughter] That's exactly what my plan was. Want to watch instead.
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Yeah. All right. From here, stop. Just grab a half. I'm right here. There's a handle on the bottom.
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wood. Then you put the wood sound. Okay. Okay. Yeah. Hold on. Hold on. Saw it again.
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You all right? No. Right in my eye. Oh, flush. I cut that with my saw and I didn't hit you.
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I can't tell you guys everything right off the bat, right? I got to get everybody on queue here.
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We got to clear all the Okay. Now, we just got to clear out what I was trying to do.
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Yeah. Okay. Are we moving the vacuum? We're moving There's a post heads up and fall.
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Get take your hand because we move your hand. Yeah. Okay. Just so we should measure the brick mold on that space there. Yeah.
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See how close we are cuz we fit in between it. Okay. This can be horrible.
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We just have to tip it up to the towards John a bit to get We want to just do it on edge.
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Just tip it up a bit, please. Keep going. Let's keep going. Don't stop. And then we'll pivot Jack's corner. Lift her up. Pivot. Jack's corner to the wall.
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John's corner to the wall. Sorry. All right. So, yeah. 1825, right? And then up here, 1825 thick. That's pretty good. That'll make it way better. Now, should we put a squirt of foam in behind there or No, I think we're good. Eh, last
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shake. The inside's different than the outside. It's not as bad, right? Not so much. Yeah.
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It's still out a little bit at the top. So, I'm wondering, do we actually screw these with the front plum?
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Probably with the front plum. Yeah. So, then we just butt the door to this to the to the Now, the other thing we have this is this is only 2x4 outside. Yes.
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Yeah. I think the door is 1904. Okay. So, how plenty are these things? That's not too bad.
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Spitting at the top. It's not too bad. And it's still 1907. Okay. It should fit.
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Yeah. So, we just screw with the front and it should be good. So, do you want to like I don't really know where it's going to hit up there.
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We will find out. And plum is there. So, where why don't we just screw these on? I think we should just do it just cuz we're going to pull it out anyways, right? Okay. [snorts] You can see how this would have been
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really weird to measure. Yep. Yeah. I kind of drew two parallel lines up and [snorts] found points. I had tape up on the top.
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Yeah. That I was measuring the height of the brick mold at this point. Up in like in three.
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That was really Yeah. the bottom center. Letic Yeah. Y hold that up or something?
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I'll turn around. Oh, they're different. Yeah, thank you. Is what I'm thinking. Yeah, just to make it so it sits farther in a bit.
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Here comes the big lift. We're going to carry the unit up the uh 21 steps here up to the top. So far so good. We're going to do a test fit and see if it's even close. This is a really
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awkward kind of a shape to measure out here and then, you know, transfer into a CAD drawing and then build into a unit.
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Uh cuz it was handmade and hand bet and hand cut and hand sanded. So, the shapes aren't perfect, but I think we're close.
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We'll soon see. You know, we're building to the outside of the brick mold dimension, which it has to fit. The brick mold has to fit between this post and the same post on the other side.
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We're 3 m smaller than the width with our outside of brick mold. But then we also had to fur the width opening, the rough actual rough opening out cuz it was too wide based on the way we build
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doors. And this gives us a a smaller, tighter clearance for a more efficient uh foam insulation application and a more solid uh fastening to the wallside down cuz we're going the top in first.
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That's what I was Yeah, we have to go I don't think we need to.
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So top in first. Yeah. Is the new belt helping your back? Oh, I've had this belt for a long time.
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I just never use it, but yeah, you bet it does. Sweet. You know, just pushes like bends your back muscles a bit cuz prevents you from curling over cuz Well, then when you flex them, they just can't physically blow out.
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Yeah. Right. You know, for pull it forward. Better to bring the bottom all the way in and then just stand the top up.
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I don't think we're going to have clearance to do that, though. So we we have to fit the top underneath. You guys get up there.
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Okay. Now let's slide it. Okay. Just slide her. Don't pick it up. Just slide it off.
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Okay. Let's go down. Down she goes. Okay. Now let's go. We may be able to go relatively flat.
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Only if you got a person on the inside and then two people on the outside that are right here.
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Right. Then another person on the inside. Yeah. On both end. And then we got to walk really close to the edge of the steps here.
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Whoever's on the bottom. I'm going to go on the inside and the bottom. And like I said, you guys, if you're going on the uh outside, I'm going on the inside. Joy. We need one more down here.
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Get the bed with you. No, I'll No, we need three people on each end.
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At least three on the bottom. Let you come in tight because the problem is you got to walk right up by the stairs. Do you want me to take that part?
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Um, I can. Okay, I'm just want to see if this will even work you guys.
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Then we can go over the railing if we have to for weight there, Jack. Good.
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Okay. Yeah, keep going. Y keep pushing them, guys. I'm just walking right behind you so I can only go so fast.
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Okay. No, just keep going back, guys. Yeah. Okay. So, we got 3 ms. Let's go. Yeah.
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Told you. Now, we want to start going up. Okay. It should stand up here somewhere.
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Okay. Oh, watch. So, you got to move over. Yeah. Okay. Let's take a second.
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Okay. Stand vertical. Take a breather. Look at that. That was fun. That was interesting. You got all that on film, mate. Jeez. Yeah, this is a little bit of Steu Fuller. This is bringing me back to Hey, let's check.
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Going way over on an angle here. We're trying to stay vertical. Yeah, we're trying to go around the ladder. Brad, switch spots with me. Let me go where you are.
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Well, okay. You shouldn't be on the end. You should be on the side, Jack.
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I know, but it was leaning off towards you guys. I'm trying to help you. Stop arguing with every like just let's calm down for a sec. All right.
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Stay calm. Stay calm. Go in. Except he had twice as many stairs. Yeah. Twice as many stairs. Oh, you guys.
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They were big. They were stairs. Oh my god. That was brutal. Hey, it was not fun.
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Yeah. We're going to lift it in. So, let's get closer. Okay. Hang on. All right.
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throat hug. Okay, we're touching the beam on the bottom. We're touching on the top, too.
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Oh, we're touching. There's nothing. Uh, no, we're touching the outside beam here. We're touching the inside angle there.
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Let's see. Let's see. So, it looks like we're touching right here. This whole side of each piece.
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Can [snorts] I Let me get a ladder and see what it looks like at the brick mold at this stage. Pass that out. I'll keep a hand while it's up there. We still probably end up want to go a little bit higher.
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So, we got to take them off, you guys. You want Let's take them off.
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Yeah. Okay. That was back. How perfect is this color or what? Yeah. I'm impressed.
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Going to fit in perfect in here. Couldn't have been better. Yeah. It will look like it's been here for a while.
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Yeah. No, it could. It'll look brand new. Yeah. Jeez, son. It was kind of a, you know, pretty anxious measurement for me, right?
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Oh, I'm sure it's a And there's no way to know if it's perfectly symmetrical, but what we're giving them is symmetrical.
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Yeah. Or we can just take it off, too. But they're also they're a size too big.
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So, I have like two pairs of hiking boots that have worn through and I might get some mountain boots this summer cuz then I can replace the sole. Otherwise, I go through hiking boots like new pair every four years.
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Yeah. Oh, hang on. Let me get started with parallel as we can. You going to go a little bit farther?
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I'm trying. Get down. No, it's not going to Okay. Oh, actually, no. You know what? It's in.
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Let's get the L. Okay. And red uh two red pry bars. That's crazy. That's impressive.
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So, we got to go up about 10 mil. We got 15 mil. We can go up.
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Okay. So, we got to pry it up on both sides at the same time. How do we do that? If we got another the next stick of dunage or something and I could stand on it.
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Yes, we could with a block here. Yeah. Yeah, that's what I'm doing. A stick of dunage. We could go up.
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We have grab the dunage from the trailer there. Yeah. There you go. Okay. That much. If it will go, if it will go, I think I think I think I think we better off just put one and one and then we going
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forward. I think you're right. Maybe we should bring two dunage or two of them planks. So just use it on I think that's going to work really good, Jack. Okay.
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Is what they brought two more here. Let's try and leave that. Let's try that, Jack. Okay.
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Okay. That's going to work. That's going to work. All right. So, let's get the other side going.
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Okay. That's right where my shims are, you guys. So, that's not I'm guessing I'm going to beat these.
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Hang on. Keep them. Stay on down. Even though it's level. That's level. Just cuz it's Yeah. Both sides. See? It has to go down a bit. Scared the out of me. Holy Not a lot.
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Oh, how's that? It's actually pretty good. Little more, little less. Little bit more. Right now, we're beauties at the top.
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Oh, excellent. Okay. Well, let's shim this side and screw it. Screw it. I had to draw the shape like four or five times.
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Yeah. It's like Yeah. For us, we were lacking this and and you can see where it's still cuz you get a little corner right there on the brick plank, right?
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Yeah. Whereas this the jam had the same thing, but it bent. So, it just bent to wherever it was going to go.
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Yeah. But no, look at that. Impact or you want the drill? Okay. 52 there. How many are there?
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So your one hole is there. Where would you want one? I I going the same distance this got to go to you a bit.
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Yep. Okay. You know, ask Curtis the second today. Randy [snorts] is sad because he's by himself.
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Are you good? Brought you back. It's beautiful. Come outside and take a look at Stephanie.
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No. Yeah. Let we'll close it for from the top on the flashing. That was weird measurements to try and take a duplicate right?
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Yeah. Look at how close we are on the sides. Yeah, definitely. That's awesome. So, we're pretty proud of ourselves right now. So, you'll have to put up the color looks so good. I didn't hit It's hard to weather the colors.
Speaker A
It fits here perfectly. Yeah. Okay. All right. All right. So, let's just take them off.
Speaker A
Yeah, we don't have exact. Well, electric. Yeah, you're probably still 10 ms to the to the weather strip slot. I say we go tight to the top. All right, I'll f the bottom.
Speaker A
We put anything in the middle. I I want the shim. You put shim here and put the shim there.
Speaker A
Okay. Cut it inside of there. Now, like you said, you flip it around. You just put it on there.
Speaker A
We get a this at the top. We've got some stain 100%. Yeah, let's do that.
Speaker A
Then we walk away today. Yeah. 25. [snorts] I need 10 saw blade. So, I'll do 10.
Speaker A
Yeah. And so then give me 60. 10 by 60 cuz the saw will rip three and a eight.
Speaker A
So 10 by 60. Sounds good. That's easy. Look at my joke. It works out like you work. You jokingly said we're going to resell it.
Speaker A
Yeah. [music] Heat. Heat. [music] [music] And then sweet. You want to take the kit off and just give it a second second?
Speaker A
I have only now this. You know what? I can't move by this much. I don't think our nail is going.
Speaker A
Um, I mean I think this this is like 30 mil. I if I cut like exactly to the Oh, looks good.
Speaker A
Okay. Yeah. Where you cut this? Yeah. Most of it comes out of there. All right. Well, there was a lot to this install. That's the end of the day here now. Uh I think it's about 2:00 in the
Speaker A
afternoon. So, basically, we pulled this off in about 5 and 1/2 6 hours. Amazing job done by the team. And look what we got.
Speaker A
[music] [music] Heat. [music] Hey, heat. Hey, heat. [music] [music]
Topics:custom wood doorcherry woodbent laminationCNC machiningwoodworkingBlack Forest Wood Co.solid wood doorwood bendingdoor jambwood finishing
