Baby Oil HACKS Dealers Don't Want You To Know

That bottle of baby oil on your bathroom shelf can do half the jobs a dealer is trying to sell you. The dashboard looks dull. The black trim around your windshield turned gray. The doors squeak in the cold. And the estimate they handed you has an interior and exterior conditioning package printed right at the top. You are not imagining it, friend. You knew that number was too big before you signed it. Most of those conditioning line items run $40 to $75 a piece. Ten minutes of work, $15 a product on their end. And they will stack three of them on one invoice. Not because your car needs it, because conditioning is the highest margin word in a service drive. A rag, a bottle, a wipe, and a number with a decimal in the wrong spot. The good news, most of that money never has to leave your pocket. A $5 bottle from the baby aisle does what a $50 upsell does. You do not need a detailer. You do not need a scan tool. And you do not need a Saturday. You need a rag in 10 minutes. What I have got for you is 10 baby oil hacks the dealer would rather you never learned. Most of them under five bucks in product. Three of them you can do in your driveway before the coffee gets cold. One of them I'm going to tell you not to do. And whatever you do, do not skip number 10. That is the one that kills the biggest conditioning upsell on the whole invoice for about $25 minutes a quarter. Cheapest fix on the list. All right, come on over here. Number one, this right here. 20 ounces of baby oil. Three or four bucks at any drugstore. It is mineral oil with a little fragrance. And on the dull black plastic of your dash, the panel above the gauges, the door cards, the console sides, it does exactly what a $40 detail spray does. Adds a thin film, darkens the color back down, looks conditioned. Here is what they are selling you. You walk in for an oil change and they add an interior conditioning line item. $40 to $75 on the same invoice. That is every one of these cosmetic packages. 10 to 20 minutes of wipe down work using product that cost the shop $10 to $20 a bottle. Before we get back to it, 30 seconds. Half of what comes through my door didn't need to come through my door. Somebody just scared him. I'm Sal Whitaker. 12 years inside a dealership service department, 30 years running my own shop, so I wrote it down. The Honest Mechanics Handbook. 434 pages on the upsells, the scare jobs behind the big quotes, and the exact words that keep an estimate honest with the page for everyone. $37, 7-day guarantee. Links below. All right, back to it. Every one of these hacks gets measured the same way. What the job really costs against the number they would quote you for it. Here is the whole job. One, vacuum the loose dust off the dash and the door tops because oil on dust makes mud. Two, wipe the plastic down with a damp microfiber to get the fingerprint film and the skin oil off. Three, put four or five drops, not a puddle, drops of baby oil onto a clean, dry microfiber. Four, wipe the vertical surfaces, dash face, door cards, console sides. Five, take a second dry microfiber and buff every panel until your finger comes away clean. Now, here is the part nobody at the counter is going to mention. Do not put baby oil on your steering wheel. Do not put it on your shift knob. Do not put it on your pedals. Anywhere your hand or foot works the car, oil is a hazard. You will find out how slick it is at exactly the wrong moment. Vertical panels only. 10 minutes, $4. Smells like a nursery. Dresses like a driveway. A fella came in last month with a 2016 Silverado holding a quote for $189. A leather and vinyl conditioning package. Four bucks. Driveway job. Next one they charge you triple for is worse. Number two, the black plastic trim on the outside of your car. The cowl at the base of the windshield where the wipers sit. The bumper inserts on trucks. The mirror bases. It is textured polypropylene and after four or five summers it goes chalky gray. Baby oil on a rag pulls the black right back out of it. Here is what a dealer detail department calls it. Exterior trim restoration bundled into a full detail at $200 to $450 or sold as a $40 add-on. The oxidation is real. UV breaks down the surface of the plastic over years. But the restoration they are doing on the ticket is a two-minute wipe with a dressing that will rinse off in the next hard rain, same as the baby oil will. Order of operations. One, wash the trim first. Baby oil over dirt is going to streak and streaks on the cowl look worse than the fade did. Two, dry it completely with a towel. Three, put a nickel-sized amount of baby oil on a microfiber and work it into the plastic in small circles. Four, keep the oiled cloth off the paint next to the trim. Get overspray on your clear coat and you will be buffing streaks for an hour. Five, take a dry cloth and knock down the shine so it does not look wet. This one is honest to a fault. It is temporary. Two, maybe three weeks before it starts fading back. If you want it to last six months, you need a real trim sealant. And that is a $15 bottle from the auto parts store, not the $4 bottle from the drugstore. Baby oil is the free trial. The sealant is the subscription. 15 minutes, same $4. A 2011 Camry came through with a $340 quote for an exterior refresh. Trim, tires, and a wax. The trim part of that job was worth about $15 of labor. Driveway job. Number three is where the shop gets creative with door seals. Number three, your door seals. The rubber weather stripping that runs the whole way around every door opening. The trunk lid, too. It is what keeps water out of your carpet and wind noise off your ear at 70. When it goes tacky and dry, doors stick. They pop when you open them and the cabin gets louder. Here is the upsell. Your door seals are dried out. We need to replace them. Two door seals with parts and labor runs $300 to $500 easy. Or the softer version, seal conditioning bundled into a premium detail, same $40 to $75. Ninety percent of the time, the seals are not shot. They are just dirty on the surface and slightly dry. And a wipe of oil restores them for pennies. Here is the honest version. One, open the door. Two, run a damp cloth all the way around the seal to pull the grit out of the rubber. Do this first because oil on grit acts like sandpaper on the seal. Three, put a small amount of baby oil on a clean microfiber. Four, wipe the whole loop of rubber, both sides, top to bottom. Five, close the door, open it again, and if there is still a sticky spot, hit that spot one more time. Same drill on the trunk seal and the fuel door seal. Baby oil works on your door seals, but it is not the best answer. And I'm going to tell you the better one at number 10. Some rubber compounds do not love mineral oil long-term. You can see swelling on cheaper seals if you drown them. Wipe. Do not soak. And do not try to correct door alignment or wind noise with oil. That is shop work. 10 minutes. Still $4. A 2013 Accord came in with a $520 quote to replace two door seals. He walked out with clean seals, four bucks of baby oil and no wind noise. Driveway job. Number four is the one they charge you the most to smell nice. Number four, your seats. And here is where I have to split it into two because half of you do not have leather seats. You have leatherrett, which is vinyl with a fancy name. Baby oil on real leather is a debate. Baby oil on leatherrett is fine and it undoes about 80% of what a dealer is charging you for leather conditioning. The leather conditioning add-on, $40 to $75 on the invoice, 10 to 20 minutes of wipe down. On genuine leather, real conditioner is worth using. A good bottle runs you $20 to $30 and lasts a year. On leatherrett, which is most base and mid-trim seats out there right now, they are selling you leather care for a plastic seat. That is not your car problem. That is their quote problem. For leatherrett, the drill goes one, vacuum the seats, including the seams where crumbs live. Two, da

handed you has an interior and exterior conditioning package printed right at the top. You are not imagining it, friend. You knew that number was too big before you signed it. Most of those conditioning line items run $40 to $75 a

piece. 10 minutes of work, $15 a product on their end. And they will stack three of them on one invoice. Not because your car needs it, because conditioning is the highest margin word in a service drive. A rag, a bottle, a wipe, and a

number with a decimal in the wrong spot. The good news, most of that money never has to leave your pocket. A $5 bottle from the baby aisle does what a $50 upsell does. You do not need a detailer.

You do not need a scan tool. And you do not need a Saturday. You need a rag in 10 minutes. What I have got for you is 10 baby oil hacks the dealer would rather you never learned. Most of them

under five bucks in product. Three of them you can do in your driveway before the coffee gets cold. One of them I'm going to tell you not to do. And whatever you do, do not skip number 10.

That is the one that kills the biggest conditioning upsell on the whole invoice for about $25 minutes a quarter.

Cheapest fix on the list. All right, come on over here. Number one, this right here. 20 ounces of baby oil. Three or four bucks at any drugstore. It is mineral oil with a little fragrance. And on the dull black plastic of your dash,

the panel above the gauges, the door cards, the console sides, it does exactly what a $40 detail spray does.

Adds a thin film, darkens the color back down, looks conditioned. Here is what they are selling you. You walk in for an oil change and they add an interior conditioning line item. $40 to $75 on the same invoice. That is every one of

these cosmetic packages. 10 to 20 minutes of wipe down work using product that cost the shop $10 to $20 a bottle.

Before we get back to it, 30 seconds. Half of what comes through my door didn't need to come through my door.

Somebody just scared him. I'm Sal Whitaker. 12 years inside a dealership service department, 30 years running my own shop, so I wrote it down. The Honest Mechanics Handbook. 434 pages on the upsells, the scare jobs behind the big

quotes, and the exact words that keep an estimate honest with the page for everyone. $37, 7-day guarantee. Links below. All right, back to it. Every one of these hacks gets measured the same way. What the job really costs against

the number they would quote you for it. Here is the whole job. One, vacuum the loose dust off the dash and the door tops because oil on dust makes mud. Two, wipe the plastic down with a damp microfiber to get the fingerprint film

and the skin oil off. Three, put four or five drops, not a puddle, drops of baby oil onto a clean, dry microfiber. Four, wipe the vertical surfaces, dash face, door cards, console sides. Five. Take a second dry microfiber and buff every

panel until your finger comes away clean. Now, here is the part nobody at the counter is going to mention. Do not put baby oil on your steering wheel. Do not put it on your shift knob. Do not put it on your pedals. Anywhere your

hand or foot works the car, oil is a hazard. You will find out how slick it is at exactly the wrong moment. Vertical panels only. 10 minutes, $4. Smells like a nursery. Dresses like a driveway. A fella came in last month with a 2016

Silverado holding a quote for $189. A leather and vinyl conditioning package. Four bucks. Driveway job. Next one they charge you triple for is worse.

Number two, the black plastic trim on the outside of your car. The cowl at the base of the windshield where the wipers sit. The bumper inserts on trucks. The mirror bases. It is textured polyropylene and after four or five

summers it goes chalky gray. Baby oil on a rag pulls the black right back out of it. Here is what a dealer detail department calls it. Exterior trim restoration bundled into a full detail at $200 to $450 or sold as a $40 add-on. The oxidation

is real. UV breaks down the surface of the plastic over years. But the restoration they are doing on the ticket is a twominute wipe with a dressing that will rinse off in the next hard rain, same as the baby oil will. Order of

operations. One, wash the trim first. Baby oil over dirt is going to streak and streaks on the cowl look worse than the fade did. Two, dry it completely with a towel. Three, put a nickel-sized amount of baby oil on a microfiber and

work it into the plastic in small circles. Four, keep the oiled cloth off the paint next to the trim. Get overspray on your clear coat and you will be buffing streaks for an hour.

Five, take a dry cloth and knock down the shine so it does not look wet. This one is honest to a fault. It is temporary. Two, maybe 3 weeks before it starts fading back. If you want it to

last six months, you need a real trim sealant. And that is a $15 bottle from the auto parts store, not the $4 bottle from the drugstore. Baby oil is the free trial. The sealant is the subscription.

15 minutes, same $4. A 2011 Camry came through with a $340 quote for an exterior refresh. Trim, tires, and a wax. The trim part of that job was worth about $15 of labor. driveway job. Number three is where the shop gets creative

with door seals. Number three, your door seals. The rubber weather stripping that runs the whole way around every door opening. The trunk lid, too. It is what keeps water out of your carpet and wind noise off your ear at 70. When it goes

tacky and dry, doors stick. They pop when you open them and the cabin gets louder. Here is the upsell. Your door seals are dried out. We need to replace them. Two door seals with parts and labor runs $300 to $500 easy. Or the

softer version, seal conditioning bundled into a premium detail, same $40 to $75. 90% of the time, the seals are not shot.

They are just dirty on the surface and slightly dry. And a wipe of oil restores them for pennies. Here is the honest version. One, open the door. Two, run a damp cloth all the way around the seal to pull the grit out of the rubber. Do

this first because oil on grit acts like sandpaper on the seal. Three, put a small amount of baby oil on a clean microfiber. Four, wipe the whole loop of rubber, both sides, top to bottom. Five, close the door, open it again, and if

there is still a sticky spot, hit that spot one more time. Same drill on the trunk seal and the fuel door seal. Baby oil works on your door seals, but it is not the best answer. And I'm going to

tell you the better one at number 10. Some rubber compounds do not love mineral oil longterm. You can see swelling on cheaper seals if you drown them. Wipe. Do not soak. And do not try to correct door alignment or wind noise

with oil. That is shop work. 10 minutes. Still $4. A 2013 Accord came in with a $520 quote to replace two door seals. He walked out with clean seals, four bucks of baby oil and no wind noise. Driveway

job. Number four is the one they charge you the most to smell nice. Number four, your seats. And here is where I have to split it into two because half of you do not have leather seats. You have

leatherrett, which is vinyl with a fancy name. Baby oil on real leather is a debate. Baby oil on leatherrett is fine and it undoes about 80% of what a dealer is charging you for leather conditioning.

The leather conditioning add-on 40 to $75 on the invoice, 10 to 20 minutes of wipe down. On genuine leather, real conditioner is worth using. A good bottle runs you 20 to $30 and lasts a year. on leatherrett, which is most base

and mid-trim seats out there right now. They are selling you leather care for a plastic seat. That is not a your car problem. That is a their quote problem.

For leatherrett, the drill goes one, vacuum the seats, including the seams where crumbs live. Two, damp microfiber and mild interior cleaner across the seating surface. Three, four drops of baby oil on a dry microfiber worked into the bolsters and the seat back. Those

are the parts that fade and dry first. Four, buff dry with a second cloth until the seat is not slippery. For real leather, buy the real conditioner. 12 years watching the service department, I saw more leatherrett get leather

conditioned than any real leather job I ever rode up. You do not want a slippery seat. If your seat is slick when you slide onto it, you overdile it and you are going to feel it every time you take

a corner. Buff hard. Test with a dry palm. And do not, do not put baby oil on perforated seats. It will settle in the holes and turn dark in a week. 20 minutes, $4 for leatherrett. Call it 25

for a real leather conditioner if you have got real leather. An RX came in with leatherrett seats and an $89 leather care charge. I have been wrong twice. Once was about a Buick. That was not one of the times. Driveway job.

Number five, your headlights. When those clear polycarbonate lenses go yellow and cloudy, the light output drops and the car looks tired. A wipe of baby oil across a cloudy headlight makes it clear for about 10 minutes. That is not a fix.

That is a diagnostic tool. And I'm going to show you how to use it on the guy trying to sell you a restoration. Here is the con. A shop offers headlight restoration as a $50 to $100 add-on.

Real restoration is wet sanding the oxidized surface off with progressively finer grits and sealing the lens with a UV safe coating. It takes 30 to 60 minutes per pair and it lasts a year or more. What some shops actually do is

wipe the lens with a glossy dressing, hand it back, and it refogs in the first wash. Same money, no work. Here is how you catch them without touching your car. One, put one drop of baby oil on a

microfiber. Two, wipe one lens with it in your driveway before you go in for the estimate. Three, watch that lens go clear in the mirror. Four, now you know exactly what a wipe-on restoration looks like. Five, when the service writer

quotes you a restoration, ask him one sentence. Is that a wet sand and UV seal, or is it a wipe-on dressing? If he cannot answer in one sentence, you have your answer. Do not drive with baby oil on your headlights. It will grab road

grime and it can create glare for oncoming traffic. This test is a driveway test. 10 minutes, then you wipe it off. And headlights are a safety part. If they are truly oxidized and dim, the answer is a real restoration or

a new lens, not a bottle from the drugstore. 5 minutes, $4. A guy came in with an F-150 holding a $180 headlight restoration quote. His old shop was going to wipe them. That is shop work if it is done right, but only if it is done

right. Verify before you pay. Number six saves you 500 bucks. Number six, your window channels. Those felt and rubber tracks the glass slides up and down through when you hit the switch. When they dry out and get dirty, the window

squeaks, it hesitates. And this is the part they use against you. The motor works harder to drag it up and down.

Then the motor gets blamed. Here is the play. Your window slows down or it squeaks and you take it in. The diagnosis comes back. The regulator is failing. We need to replace the window regulator assembly. Parts and labor $350

to $600. Nine times out of 10 on a car under 10 years old, the regulator is fine. The channels are gummy. 2 minutes of lubrication moves the window like new, and no $500 quote gets signed.

Here's the drill. One, roll the window all the way down. Two, put a couple drops of baby oil on the corner of a microfiber. Three, reach up into the exposed channel, the vertical slot the glass slid down out of, and wipe the

felt strip along the length of it. Four, do the same on the other side of the door frame. Five, roll the window up and down four or five times to work it in.

Six, and this matters, wipe any excess off the glass with a clean cloth. This is a stop gap. If the window still hesitates after this or you hear the motor straining, then it might genuinely be the regulator. And that is shop work,

not driveway work. Also, silicone spray is a better long-term lube for window channels than baby oil. I will say more on that at number 10. Baby oil is what you have tonight. Silicone is what you should have in the garage. 5 minutes.

Same $4 bottle. A Civic came through with a $480 quote for a window regulator, and the window worked perfect once the channels got cleaned and lubed.

Driveway job. Real quick, if this is saving you money, hit subscribe so the next quote does not catch you. All right, back to it. Number seven, the engine bay. And I need you to listen close on this one because the hack is

not what you think. Every channel with a phone shows some guy wiping baby oil on his valve cover for the shine. What I'm going to tell you is when it works, when it does not, and how the engine detail

upsell hides the damage. Here is the upsell. Engine bay detail at your dealer service drive. $40 to $75, 10 minutes of work. They spray a dressing all over your motor and it looks showroom for a week. But some of

those dressings and baby oil specifically will land on your serpentine belt, soften the rubber, make it slip and squeal, and shorten its life by a few thousand miles. That is the padded quote hiding a real problem. So, here is the sane version. One, only

touch the hard plastic engine covers, the big black plastic pieces with the brand name on them, nothing else. Two, engine cold, never on a hot motor.

Three, spray the baby oil onto the microfiber first, not onto the engine. Four, wipe the plastic cover only. Five, buff dry. No residue. Six, keep the oil away from your belts, your electrical connectors, your intake, your sensors, and anything that gets hot. That is the

whole procedure, and it is cosmetic only. Belts and mineral oil do not mix. If you get baby oil on your serpentine belt, wipe it off immediately with a dry cloth. Do not apply anything liquid near the alternator, the mass air flow

sensor, or the intake tube. And if a shop is doing an engine detail on your car, ask them what product they are using and where they are applying it.

Both questions. 10 minutes if you do it right. $4. A Corolla came in with a squealing belt after a $65 engine bay detail. Dressing soaked into the belt.

Driveway job with rules. Number eight is one that ruins $200 of paintwork if you do not know it. Number eight, adhesive residue. That sticky gum a bumper sticker leaves behind. The glue from the dealer badge you pulled off. The tape

residue on your windshield from a parking pass. Baby oil sits on that gunk, softens it, and lets you wipe it off without a scraper, which is the tool that ends up putting a scratch through your clear coat. Here is the line item

on the estimate. Adhesive removal or decal removal tucked into a paint correction or detail job. $40 to $120, depending on how many badges you pulled off wrong. Some shops will use a razor blade too eagerly and micro scratch the

paint. And now the fix for the fix is a machine polish at another 200 and up.

The bottle is honest. The estimate is not. Here's the way that does not hurt paint. One, wash the area first and dry it. Two, soak a microfiber cloth with baby oil. This one you actually want damp, not dry. Three, lay the oiled

cloth flat over the residue and let it sit for five minutes. Do not scrub yet.

Four, come back and wipe in one direction. The gum should ball up and come with the cloth. Five, if a stubborn spot remains, repeat step three. Six, wash the panel with soapy water afterward to get all the oil off the

paint. Do not use a razor blade. Do not use fingernail polish remover. That is acetone and it will eat some paints. Do not use a magic eraser on clear coat. It is an abrasive. And be patient. The whole trick with baby oil on adhesive is

that time does the work, not pressure. If you scrub hard, you will get swirls, and that is a whole other bill. 10 minutes plus 5 minutes of soak time. $4 beats the $50 to $120 line item every time. Driveway job. Number nine is the

only one on this list where the hack is wrong, and I need you to hear me on it before it cost you. Number nine, your tires. And this is the walkback. Every viral clip out there shows somebody wiping baby oil on their tire sidewalls

for that deep wet black gloss. It works. It looks incredible for about a day. And it is one of the worst things you can put on a tire. So, I want to explain why before some shop sells you the safe

version at 10 times the price. Two problems, both real. One, tire rubber is engineered with anti- ozone and UV protectants built into the compound.

Petroleum based oils can leech those protectants out and dry the sidewall faster, the exact opposite of what you wanted. Two, oil on the sidewall does not stay on the sidewall. It walks onto the tread as the wheel spins. And now

the outer edge of your contact patch has an oil film on it. That is a braking problem. So, here is what to do instead, and it is still cheap. One, buy a bottle of water-based tire dressing. $10 to $15

lasts a year. Two, wash the tires. Three, apply the dressing to a foam applicator, not the tire directly. Four, wipe the sidewall in one direction, one thin coat. Five, let it dry 20 minutes before you drive. And if you have

already put baby oil on your tires, wash them with car soap and a stiff brush before you drive on them hard. That is not a hack, that is a lawsuit. A slick tire in the rain is not a joke. And no

cosmetic shine is worth reducing the grip on the outside of your tread. Same rule for silicone heavy dressings that sling. They end up on your brake rotors.

If a detailer is dressing your tires, ask what product they use. Water-based only, 15 minutes. $12 for the right stuff. Skip the $4 bottle here. This is the exception on the list. The only spot baby oil does not belong. Driveway Job

with the right product. Number 10 is the one they charge the most to scare you about. Almost free. Number 10. And you are going to think I'm cheating because I said this whole thing was about baby oil. And number 10 is not baby oil, but

it lives on the same shelf in your garage. And it kills the single biggest cosmetic upsell dealers. Right. It is a $2 can of automotive silicone spray right here. Little aerosol, red straw, 12 oz. Silicone spray does what baby oil

does on your door seals, your window channels, and your latches. except it does it better. It lasts three to five times longer. And unlike mineral oil, it is chemically compatible with every rubber compound the car industry uses.

It does not swell your seals. It does not attract dust the way oil does, and it does not walk onto your tires. Here is the number that decides this one.

Weather stripping and seal conditioning, hinge and latch lubrication, window channel service. Dealers write these as three separate line items on the same invoice. 40, 45, and 40. That is $125 for what takes one can of silicone and 10 minutes. And they will recommend it

every 12 months. Over a car life, call it 15 years. That is close to $2,000 in three cosmetic line items alone. on a job that costs you $2 a quarter and never gets to appear on an estimate again. Once a season, that is four times

a year. On the first weekend of the season, if you want a rule, you do this walkound. 2 minutes each door. One, open the door. Two, one short burst of silicone on a microfiber.

Three, wipe the entire door seal. Four, do the trunk seal and the fuel door seal same way. Five, hit the door hinges in the latch striker with one direct spray each. Six, roll every window all the way down. One burst on a cloth. Wipe the

channel felt. Done. 8 minutes. Buy silicone spray, not WD40. WD40 is a solvent. It strips lubricant.

It does not leave it. silicone spray specifically. And do not spray anywhere near your brake rotors, your paint. It will bead water and hide as a shine that is not wax or the interior fabric. It will show as a stain that does not come

out. 8 minutes a quarter, $2 a can, and one can will last you two years. I know you wanted a secret, something with a part number, something clever. This is what 42 years of working on cars taught me. The boring stuff is the stuff that

actually saves the money. A 5-second habit four times a year permanently kills a $125 upsell that every dealer service department in this country is trained to sell you. $2, 10 minutes. Put your wallet away. Let me be straight

with you before you close this out. Some detail work is worth paying for. A real headlight restoration by a shop that knows what they are doing. Worth it. A real ceramic coating on a car you plan to keep. Worth it. A groundup interior

detox on a used car you just bought. Absolutely worth it. I am not telling you to never spend money at a shop. I am telling you to know which is which.

Because your car is not out to get you. I promise you that. That bottle of baby oil is not out to get you. Neither am I.

The only thing in this whole thing that ever was was the number on that conditioning package line item. And now you can spot it from across the room. A shop lives on the repairs it talks you out of. That is not a slogan. That is 30

years of folks sending me their daughters and their mothers because I showed them the worn rubber before I charged them a dime. The oily rag does not lie. The invoice does. All right, your turn. Drop a comment down there.

What do you drive? And what is the scariest cosmetic service quote a dealer ever handed you? Tell me the number.

Tell me the line item. And I will tell you flat out whether it was fair or whether they were writing fiction. No judgment. Nobody gets roasted here. And if you have got a car making a squeak or a stick right now, tell me what it

sounds like and where it is coming from. And I will tell you if it is a $2 fix.

Next time I am opening the dealership decoder files, the three lines on your service invoice that are pure profit and the exact words that make them disappear at the counter without an argument. That one will save you more money than

anything else I have ever put on this channel. Meet me back here for it. Take care of it and it'll take care of you.

See you at the show.