Speaker A
the south is not a monolith [Music] there are pockets of weirdness awesomeness and then there's charleston where for some time now important things have been happening with food a lot of them having to do with this guy [Music]
Anthony Bourdain explores Charleston, South Carolina's food scene, from Waffle House and Sean Brock's Southern cooking to Rodney Scott's barbecue and the revival of heirloom ingredients.
Key Takeaways
- Charleston is a leading center of Southern food innovation, driven by chefs reconnecting with local heritage.
- Southern cuisine is an interactive, evolving culture shaped by many communities, not a monolith.
- Preserving heirloom ingredients and seeds is central to protecting regional food identity.
- Labor and tradition, from whole-hog barbecue to hand-tended crops, remain essential to authentic regional cooking.
What the video covers
- Bourdain opens by framing Charleston as a city where important food developments are happening, centered on chef Sean Brock.
- Bourdain and Brock treat Waffle House as a near-spiritual American institution, with a tasting-menu-style sequence of pecan waffles, patty melts, and hash browns.
- A lighthearted debate about Heinz 57 sauce and American condiments runs through the Waffle House segment.
- The episode visits the Charleston RiverDogs minor league baseball team, showing the city's community and sports culture.
- Bourdain explores husk, the Charleston restaurant that reinterprets Southern traditions with modern techniques while respecting their origins.
- The episode examines redefining Southern food and why its history was distorted, arguing that American cooking was shaped by enslaved and Black cooks.
- Segments cover heirloom crops and seed-saving efforts that recovered Carolina Gold rice, grits, and cowpeas.
- Bourdain discusses the Gullah Geechee culture and the threats of development pressure on coastal land.
- Rodney Scott's whole-hog barbecue, cooked over burn barrels and pits, is presented as a labor-intensive tradition.
- The episode closes with fishing, sustainable seafood, and local angling culture along the Carolina coast.
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
Speaker A
on my shoulders [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] i usually go with a budweiser and a jagermeister budweiser and a jagermeister so you any notion of going local right out the window uh yeah [Music] the first one's never good the first one is never good
Speaker A
[Laughter] but it gets easier after the first one so look um this is not my first time to uh to charleston as you know uh i did do a show here before and i'm still taking [ __ ] about it
Speaker A
apparently i really picked up the first time i came here because i made a number of errors apparently none more egregious than going out for like doing an oyster roast and drinking champagne i've never heard of such a thing well
Speaker A
champagne of beers is okay with oysters see that's what it must have been a time somebody got yeah confused somewhere anyway i got it wrong this time i'm getting it right which is why i've come to you [Music]
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you could be forgiven for underestimating sean brock first time you meet him i know i did i saw a scruffy looking dude in a trucker cap who always seemed to have a bottle of really good bourbon on hand
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stetsoeweller 1991 18 years old this is the end of great whiskey it didn't come in this bottle this is my travel bottle because it's plastic you see so don't break when you get rowdy [Music] it took me a little time to discover the
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ferocious intellect the inquiry nature the uniquely focused and purposeful talent of the man without a doubt one of america's most important chefs a guy who's redefining what not just southern cooking is was and can be but american cooking as a whole
Speaker A
[Music] [Music] we're going to talk a lot about this over the next week about the notions of universal awesomeness is the waffle house universally awesome we have one choice for the late night eating and it's the waffle house and
Speaker A
they create this environment where no matter how blitzed you are or how normal you are you are welcome and treated equally with an experience it's not just like you know eating a plate of food you're talking about like a magical spiritual
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place it's beyond a magical spiritual place [Music] it is indeed marvelous an irony free zone where everything is beautiful and nothing hurts where everybody regardless of race creed color or degree of inebriation is welcomed its warm yellow glow a beacon of hope
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and salvation inviting the hungry the lost the seriously hammered all across the south to come inside a place of safety and nourishment it never closes it is always always faithful always there for you when i was a kid i was obsessed with
Speaker A
this place because i wanted to be a chef this is the only place i've ever been to where i actually watched people cook this was action to me because i would see these people cooking at a pace and
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cooking for people who were completely out of control but still providing hospitality it was one of the things that really helped me fall in love with with cooking waffles yes i didn't know about this i am unbelievably in spite of my world
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travels new to the wonders of the waffle house and unfamiliar with its ways the terminology for instance is new to me ah now look i'm looking at my hash brown and i am already confused and enticed sausage you can't go all in you want
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everything i need to make a choice so there's a balance and then when you find your balance you memorize it i go scattered covered some other chunks which means i gather scattered on the griddle heaped with brown onions cheese
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and chunks of hickory smoked ham that's my style like i've been doing that since since day one and i don't even know what that means you know what i know i i i don't want the waffles at the waffle house [ __ ]
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and you have to have waffles oh okay you have to have pecan waffle now so what what i've devised as a as a chef is a a tasting menu experience where you can sit down and really experience what this place does and you
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start out first thing you have pecan waffle really gentlemen oh oh the pecan waffle you just crush it you put everything the slathering i wanted to be swimming in syrup and denies vegetable oil oh that's good that's good see you don't come here
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expecting the french laundry you come here expecting something amazing this is better than the french lobby man [Music] and then second course patty melt split [Music] ah come on that's not an insane needle it's just oh god that's insanely delicious no meal
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is complete without sunny flat out oh yeah and then a green salad with some thousand island dressing would be amazing [Music] would you rather have thin cut pork chops or a t-bone i would like both heinz 57 is the best man
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what are the more complex sauces the american repertoire really you want to talk [ __ ] about it this is this is sauce work trust me this is this is gonna change your life no that's wrong man come on
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this was a brilliant human being who had a recipe it was amazing and i got a bad rap you're talking about like ronald mcdonald he had a good idea um no you're you're wrong i'm sorry we part ways my friend
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here's my sauce after a few bites of waffle a burger a hunk of generic t-bone and some hash browns one feels drawn right to the center of what makes our country great in america yeah moment that drives me to clamber up
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on the counter and start reciting walt whitman the star-spangled banner who say can you see and you know what i doubt i'd be the first oh my god the umami yes give me a break you know what umami
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means in japanese actually the literal translation of umami orgasm no umami means in japanese if you literally it means i will suck your for a bite of [Laughter] that burger [Laughter] he would you bite the pork chop [Music]
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[Applause] [Music] everybody needs a place a community something larger than oneself to care about to be part of a place to hide when times get tough where you're accepted for who you are where the rhythms of a summer afternoon
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the crack of a bat the roar of the crowd our music behold the mighty charleston river dogs a minor league feeder team for the new york yankees [Music] [Applause] meet one of the owners of the charleston river dogs charleston resident bill
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murray she said i'd have too many beers to drive i'm gonna take shotgun we're gonna see how fast he can go all the way around the outfield [Music] today the river dogs are facing the evil forces of the dreaded savannah sand nats
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yow that's gonna score a run and that's gonna leave a mark he's gonna hold him bad day for the sand nuts you're hated you're hated we will crush you like a well santa a santa has almost no backbone almost no
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skeletal structure they fold as difficult as it might have been to forego the joys of the bacon-wrapped footlong corndog known as the pig on a stick we knew we'd be coming here husk shawn's restaurant in downtown charleston one of two that have helped
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make the city a fine dining destination so i want to know southern living it's very different up there and down here it's a big transition easy easy for you or not it's easy the only driving was the real transition because
Speaker A
i drive like a new york person and when you come here driving like new york you you know you it takes you a while to recover but you know i'm right on the edge here like telling people that this is a really nice place
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to come and really i don't want anyone else to come i like it the way it is there's a lot of insects it's really really hot in the summer and the traffic is worse than it ever was husk directly addresses southern
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culinary traditions using the best of modern techniques but always always respecting the originals and who made them it's a it's a pressing matter to redefine southern food if i were southern i would i i would make it a
Speaker A
personal mission because it it was distorted for so long but as a northerner why should northerners care well i think if you if you look at the history of food in america there's no denying that southern food was the first you know
Speaker A
true cuisine that had this foundation and that's important to preserve and you know to me though it kind of goes back to the idea of it should you should be cooking and preserving and celebrating the food of your grandmother people take a real
Speaker A
pride in their ability to cook my aunt's recipe my grandmother's recipe this is how we made these and the standard of food here is so high that when i go around any place i just go [Music] country ham
Speaker A
bread and butter pickles and of course sean being sean there will be bourbon i just like to start a meal with pickles and ham i'll try not to geek out too much but this is a very special breed of pig that
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came over here in the 1500s it's called assabal the spaniards brought it it has a very particular flavor this one's aged three years it's ridiculously good that's the best american ham i've ever had far away that is unbelievable
Speaker A
these two things together mm-hmm these are my two favorite things in the whole entire world stitzer willer whiskey in the old country hand [Music] so this is an old dish um that i dug up in one of those old books
Speaker A
that i thought i studied it's a it's an old-fashioned oyster pie so just grab your spoon and just dig all the way down the oysters are in the bottom how old is this resume it was well documented in the 19th
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century pre-civil war it's good [Music] so sherman grits is the dish of charleston i mean it really is it's the dish i crave when i leave charleston and come back this version is one of the older ones where we actually
Speaker A
make harmony first by maximalizing the corn so you'll taste a little the grits are a little bit different oh yes oh that's really great looking then we make a brown gravy which is the most classic way on top crispy pig
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ears you get grannies coming and saying i haven't tasted this since i was a little kid yeah exactly man wow that's good [Music] we were trying to to replicate the emotion of something that southern food provides you in a time where
Speaker A
good ingredients weren't available so we made up for tasteless ingredients by frying them or dumping butter on them right now we don't have to wow what what's going on here this is an onslaught of awesomeness here we didn't
Speaker A
order this so happened john so pit beans have been cooking over the fire all day these are the red peas that came from from west africa this is the original carolina gold rice hand harvested with benny grilled whiting which is what nobody
Speaker A
eats in charleston and restaurants is what everybody eats in homes with some spring vegetables and then as a suckling pig that's the same breed asobal as we had earlier with the ham mixed with a mule foot uh cooked on a spit some cream corn and
Speaker A
cornbread wow so this is gonna be my first mule foot this is like my favorite way to eat you know just family style pass stuff around the rice is amazing it's amazing yeah [Music] you see bubba gum you get angry
Speaker A
i get very angry for me it's chili's because you see chili's along the mexican water he's like what the i'm sorry do we have a shortage of mexicans in this party there's like a shortage of good food and you're eating
Speaker A
the chilis i really want to like pull up the car get a tire iron and walk in and just straighten some people out clean house road house though roadhouse vastly underrated film you guys are both into roadhouse such a great film
Speaker A
sneezy what else do you need to know you can deconstruct this film forever the more you watch it the more mysteries unfold i've never seen anyone enjoy roadhogs more than i do what my friend's wife kelly lynch plays the doctor that stitches out yeah
Speaker A
in the movie yes she's the romantic interest right the unattainable yes romantic interest and i have for the last i don't know probably about 25 years called his home in the middle of the night and said you don't know me
Speaker A
but your wife's getting slammed up against the wall by patrick swayze she's not putting up much of a fight and then hang up it is in many ways a perfect film [Laughter] it's a whiskey target [Music] what is down home southern cooking
Speaker A
where did it come from who's responsible well it's always useful when asking those kinds of questions wherever you are to ask first who did the cooking back then in the beginning where did they come from when you meet people here you know that
Speaker A
you're seeing a direct descendant of a slave that was here after the slaves were freed ashley green grew up on mosquito beach on james island in charleston her mother owns the property which has been in her family for
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generations fact of the matter is in the old south back when the dishes flavors and ingredients of southern cooking which is to say american cooking as opposed to european chances are that food was grown gathered produced and prepared by
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african slaves chef vijay dennis has made it a personal mission to celebrate and protect the culinary traditions his ancestors passed down to him so this is um some local blue crab just fresh in season this is a play on uh
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some garlic crabs but it's a shrimp butter instead of the garlic butter and then you have that play of you know the french influence into the cuisine right here the flavors and textures and food ways of west africa are all over southern
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cooking and there are few better places to see how short the line between there and here than gulliculture i'm really enjoying this i go to this is so delicious how african is traditional gullah cooking well i think what happens is you change
Speaker A
the location of the people but you did not change who the people were um you did not change the information that they came with with their traditions if you look at the history of american food you know you'll you'll
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quickly see that this is this is one of the first true cuisines uh of america oh what's that what what is this it looks good real we're going back to west africa all right soft shell crabs and conch in a
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decidedly west african inflected peanut stew with carolina rice sauteed squash and zucchini oh that's so good man it's been a while since i had conch clearly i mean correct me if i'm wrong sean there's a different kind of
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interest in charleston than existed 20 years ago right is something happening here and is it a good what what what's changed so i mean it's good to have people from they have a more diverse community in a sense but
Speaker A
then you also lose a little bit the danger is they're coming to charleston because of the beauty and we're having the fighter fight against you know bigger entities that seek to get the land so that they can develop it
Speaker A
uh and so we're fighting to keep what's been ours and so it's important for us to preserve this area preserve this culture for generations to come [Music] according to the u.s government almost 50 of all the children in this country
Speaker A
fail to get their recommended daily allowance fast food restaurants have discovered that we like our food heavily salt just add water and two of your own fresh eggs because of industry's innovations in farm chemicals and machinery taste it
Speaker A
how did it happen that we ended up with southern food being the most sort of cruelly hijacked into this cartoonish uh parody of itself modern clean advanced complete meat processing i think uh it's a combination of two massive cultural influences that came
Speaker A
together at the same time the idea of industrialization came late to the south uh when it hit we got pellagra the first nutrition laws in america were written in south carolina because everybody moved into mill villages and immediately
Speaker A
started eating processed food because they weren't growing their food anymore the second thing that happened is there was a massive amount of expertise that was lost during the civil war a lot of the southern revival the whole turnaround started with this guy
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glenn roberts a man who asked a simple question how come grits aren't as good as they used to be and by starting the heirloom grain company anson mills decided to do something about it so why do this why do something as
Speaker A
unwanted meaning nobody was particularly crying after you know we need we need rice that used to taste like it did in 1837.
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we need we need grits that better grits what called to you that you felt compelled to answer i'm a cuisine [ __ ] you know i i think that culture is interactive with cuisine as soon as you look at cuisine you're looking at
Speaker A
politics you're looking at medicine you're looking at the advanced thinking i'll agree with you there's nothing more political than food you got it chef mike lotta's restaurant fig was one of the first and most important on the charleston scene determined to source
Speaker A
the kind of local products that you use to find everywhere in the low country as much as i'd like to illustrate that solid grounding and traditional ingredients and preparations with my order i could not resist the soft shell
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crabs which are just in season with a pasta and shaved batarga which frankly i'd slit my best friend's throat for wow that looks great yeah that's beautiful sweet when you had your first fork full of proper rice is there an instinct to go out and sort
Speaker A
of bludgeon the rest of the world in it understanding what you have just come to understand i did not run up and down the streets of charleston it was tough to dislodge people here so i just went straight to san francisco
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right and i gave away tons of product and guess what they went crazy slow-baked black bass anson mills farrow ramps in season and lettuces and this ode to all things glenn is responsible for bringing back heirloom rice and peas
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suckling ossobal pig and chicken coffee with carolina gold rice oh that's good isn't that great this is phenomenal these peas are killer i'm hitting the rice next that's got the entire history of southern agriculture in it right here right there in that little
Speaker A
boat this whole idea of having a sentry in a dish none of this stuff was here 20 years ago near the end of the civil war during general sherman's scorched earth campaign seed stores were a favored target he was largely african slaves who
Speaker A
were able to save the seeds that glenn is now able to locate and reintroduce it is those people who kept the corn it is those people who kept the cow peas it's those people who kept the vegetables because they couldn't buy
Speaker A
their way out of not doing it you know were you talking about chitlins bigfoot pogbas african-americans in the north do not embrace those poor people uh classics of the south is an overlay of pain and oppression that goes with it
Speaker A
how do we combat that what you're speaking about is walking away from your own culinary heritage because of social sensitivity bottom line is if you want something that's compelling that draws on your soul this is why they call it
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soul food [Music] i need the finest in turkey killing couture i would be ninja-like and i want to look cool well you know camouflage is the standard go out wear in south carolina so i'm i'm bringing that look to new york
Speaker A
a cool clear morning and i do what any sensible charlestonian would do on a day like this look for turkeys to kill so pants need those all right [Music] you know in south carolina our our state bird is the mosquito
Speaker A
right so i want to be covered head to toe next thing we need to get your face covered up [Music] i'm going in a waffle house wearing this this is totally me we do have some turkey vests a turkey
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vest yes i just [Music] this is your last day on earth mr turkey you will die now prepare to meet your maker here's the thing about hunting the likelihood of me successfully shooting even the stupidest animal on camera are
Speaker A
about the same as donald trump being gracious to anybody or adam sandler making a good movie basically a magical unicorn is going to land in front of me and shower me with candy and vicodins before i shoot a
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freaking turkey on camera that shot you heard was me shooting a producer in the calf and telling him to hobble over to the pigley wiggly for a frozen gobbler before he bleeds out [Music] and like magic behold turkey
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slow slow barbecued turkey with all the sides you want and need what we got going on here chef pig's feet and collard greens pickled pigs feet and collards oh yes and then uh barbecue coleslaw it's potato salad with ramps
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baked uh red peas oh there's my weakness right there we made you some very special uh mac and cheese french mac and cheese i do love bright orange mac and cheese as you know and that's a turkey yup
Speaker A
let that be a lesson to you like going to grandma's house mike lotta from fig is here and jeff allen owner of rebellion farm so at this point how many others are there like you guys like who are
Speaker A
basically keeping it real as far as real southern culinary traditions as opposed to sort of the jokey ones i feel like just about everybody here is more than you would think well how many people is that 12.
Speaker A
yeah in a town like this that's pretty amazing goddamn this is good pig's feet and green is just ridiculously good this is really moist for a wild turkey like people who say they don't like turkey need to eat this
Speaker A
so what's your impression of charleston it's a you know it's one of those weird or distinctly american mutations oh kind of like rock and roll or jazz or blues so what makes charleston so cool though there's really nothing else like it in
Speaker A
america and it's been unique since the early part of the 18th century and the city works hard to preserve that we have an incredibly gorgeous city that people want to visit so we have the advantage of tourism the clientele
Speaker A
definitely gives us the opportunity to be this progressive or they almost push us to be yeah more than we can even be we have an active cuisine i mean we've recovered all these you know ingredients and we discovered a lot of the
Speaker A
agricultural influences that were destroyed in the 20th century but we're not we're not just recreating history we're not going back and cooking the civil war these guys are pushing the food forward here and we're creating a new cuisine
Speaker A
there's got to be a happy day we need to take you to caesar rough the menu forever we're going to get some more of that mac and cheese in a minute hell yeah [Music] [Music] we're one of the last few hunters in the
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world [Music] there's no store for us to go offshore to go and pick those fish up we have to look for them we have to go and sort of find the ones we're allowed to harvest we are the last of the final frontier of
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hunters you know to go in and to feed the world and that's what we do [Music] mark mahevka has been a fisherman since the 70s he takes an unusual and much needed approach to catching fish instead of raking the sea of the same overfished
Speaker A
mindlessly popular species he passionately promotes the just as good and usually better less known and underutilized stuff one of the great things about the lowcountry is the flavor of our waterways and you know that wasn't being represented properly
Speaker A
in all the restaurants then all of a sudden i hear about this guy who has the most beautiful fish you've ever seen but but you got to go to the dock and get it frustrated by the conventional wisdom by
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the mishandling of fish by other distributors and the narrow range available on the market he became his own dealer starting abundant seafood one of the country's first csf's or community supported fisheries he's changed the way people think about
Speaker A
so-called trash fish look at how beautiful that is today's catch triggerfish any market for these things oh my god yeah we can't go and keep it in-house enough no really really the crazy thing is it's like even five years ago there wasn't a
Speaker A
single one of these on the menu you know before we all knew mark everyone had the same crap on the menus tuna salmon grouper snapper which is delicious stuff but as we all know we've overfished that and mark really taught all of us
Speaker A
the beauty of stuff like this [Music] this is a half shell style so you just leave the scale on the skin on right you just cook it one side up it's sort of basting itself yes yeah yeah it makes
Speaker A
like a cup it's very uh creole is there something out there that you're seeing that's still a hard sell that you you wish people would one of the hardest sells is ambergris amber jackson amberjack the japanese love it yeah
Speaker A
look at that that is pretty smells good wow yum hmm oh man i could eat that 365 days ah charcoal and fish i know i know damn that's good wow [Applause] [Music] everybody thinks there's all this great barbecue in the
Speaker A
south it's 99 terrible barbecue and so to get real barbecue you gotta drive way out in the weeds off the main road and good freaking luck if you could find it is one of the most respected barbecue joints in the u.s of a run by one of the
Speaker A
most respected old-school pit masters ask a chef ask anybody who knows good barbecue and they will tell you where to go here a rundown looking take out about two hours drive out of charleston in hemingway south carolina now how long have you been doing this
Speaker A
since i was 11. grew up doing this crazy um my family started in 1972 so i grew up running around this place it's hard it is that's why no one does it man that's why there's nothing but bad barbecue
Speaker A
because in my opinion the only true way to make barbecue is the burn barrel and pits and you got to stay up all night all night [Music] rodney scott a man sought after all over the world for some of the finest whole
Speaker A
hog barbecue there is rodney and his family have been doing it like this and only like this for 43 years burn barrel fresh coals slow slow slow cooked all night in the pit there are no shortcuts this ain't a
Speaker A
craft this is a calling look at that [Music] yes oh man you got to have a little bit of white bread with it at least a little bit of white yeah see this is what everybody always gets gets wrong in new york they serve
Speaker A
cornbread with barbecue which of course falls into crumbles you can't yeah you got to have that look at that this is what we call pork spaghetti gotta have some of that [Music] man that sauce is nice too is perfect
Speaker A
right vinegar and pepper yeah it's so good that's my dad's recipe do you do not the the standard south carolina mustard dressing at all i'm sure people are gonna be pissed at me about this because people feel strongly about these
Speaker A
things but i was not liking that that's your thing around here you scream mustard they'll think it's going on a hot dog that's the only thing they know about mustard here oh good oh man that's just so good
Speaker A
how many hours about that pig is cooking 12 hours about 12. you have to love it you have to be head over heels in love with it to do that every day i mean you ever get sick of eating barbecue no not
Speaker A
yet not yet so we're all going to be rolling out here with the rodney scott cologne on [Music] what are we fishing for here well out here we've got um spot tail bass flounder sea trout really yeah woohoo
Speaker A
i got you [Music] yeah and the way you fish here the idea is just throw it out as far as you can and then you just leave it oh just leave it yeah that's the cool thing about fishing out here oh good so i don't have
Speaker A
to be working there's no not so much skill involved so how am i doing in the learning to be a redneck uh department not wearing shoes you're looking good right now with that fishing pole in your hand on the dock that's pretty awesome
Speaker A
[Music] it's a different pace here man you know this is this is the way to live i do enjoy it i love that waffle house man i mean i'm trying to tell you that was like a i like your restaurant at all
Speaker A
i guess you're some kind of good chef but that waffle house that is a phenomenon it really is [Music] let's go with boiled peanuts with whiskey oh yeah [Music] it's so good how's the visit to charleston oh it's been great
Speaker A
this is a special place it really is it's very unique it's been a lot of fun to watch the food scene here go from kind of what everybody else is doing was doing doing something very singular very special
Speaker A
and when you've got a tradition and a when you have traditional recipes and a story behind food like you have here uh that's that's a that's a really cool thing well the thing is i'm still discovering stuff here
Speaker A
i've been here 12 years wow that barbecue the riding gave us was sick man he is he is a force to be reckoned with man like you know you talk about europe everybody travels hours to go to elbow your travels hours by car to go
Speaker A
michelle bra it's the same thing here we just do it from barbecue you had a hit yeah let's see yeah you did it bit right below the hook yeah so it's a that's an intelligent mother fish too big and intelligent
Speaker A
[Music] so just hook up under the bottom lip ouch [Music] what do you think you're doing buddy it's like here well as uh anal seeking there's fish in the amazon that swim up your call yeah nice try buddy
Speaker A
it's quiet this morning ain't nobody on the water with me the old fishing hole quality bourbon no need for shoes i think they grabbed them just having [Laughter] in such circumstances whether you actually catch any fish is completely
Speaker A
beside the point not bad for a yankee good man better than my last cast [Music] you
Topics:Anthony BourdainParts UnknownCharlestonSouthern foodSean BrockWaffle HouseRodney Scottheirloom ingredientsbarbecueGullah Geechee
