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Hello everyone, how's it going? I am Louis, the Aver guy 1983. Thank you very much for joining me on this video. As you guys can see, I have my central controller here now, so we're going to go ahead and
Step-by-step guide to replacing and repairing the central controller on an InMotion RS scooter, including wiring tips and troubleshooting error codes.
Key Takeaways
- Error codes 109 and 209 typically indicate a faulty central controller or blown fuse.
- Proper disconnection of wiring harnesses is crucial to avoid damage during repair.
- Replacement parts provided by InMotion include improved cable designs.
- Removing the handlebar is necessary to access and replace the central controller.
- Resetting the scooter via the InMotion app is required after installing the new controller.
Summary
- Introduction to replacing the central controller on an InMotion RS scooter.
- Explanation of error codes 109 and 209 indicating central controller issues.
- Detailed instructions on carefully disconnecting wiring harnesses without damage.
- Identification of a factory heat shrink repair on a communication cable.
- Comparison between original and replacement cables highlighting design improvements.
- Step-by-step removal of screws and panels using a 3mm hex key.
- Instructions on removing the handlebar to access the central controller.
- Emphasis on careful handling and proper technique during repair.
- Installation process of the new central controller with correct wire placement.
- General advice on resetting mileage and pairing with the InMotion app after replacement.
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
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install it. In this video, I'm going to show you guys how to set it up and repair it to the InMotion app because this is technically like a car computer, so it's going to reset the mileage on
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your scooter and everything else, and you're going to basically start over fresh like if it was a brand new scooter. With that said, let's go ahead and roll the intro so that we can go ahead and get started with this
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repair. I'm an guy and I don't know how to, you show you. I'm an guy and [Music] I. All righty, as you guys can see here from the deck, I have just two wires disconnected on the battery, and it's for
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the charging ports, which doesn't affect anything, but the last time I had the scooter on, it had a 209 code, so we're going to turn it on right now and find out what code it gets. But you
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guys can see the wiring harnesses are actually nicely tucked in. There's no issues with them or anything, so we're going to see if this drive board fixes the issue. So I'm going to go ahead and switch on over to the display area,
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turn it on, and see if we get any codes before we do the installation of the replacement. All right, so let's go ahead and turn on the scooter and see what code we get. Well, crap. Okay, so
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the last time I had this problem, it only had a 209 code and not 109. Now we're getting a 109 and a 209, which is definitely a sign of the central controller having a problem. Chances are a fuse blew out. There is a
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fuse that is inside of the central controller, and unfortunately, it's soldered, so unless you have soldering skills, you won't be able to figure out how to get it off. I do have a new one, so let's go ahead and
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cut the video here. I'm going to remove all the wire harnesses and everything and start working on installing the new one. I'm going to try to keep this video as short as possible because InMotion does have their own version of changing out
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the central controller, so we're going to see from there. And as you guys can see, it does have 583 miles on the odometer, so let's go ahead and turn off this scooter and start working on getting
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the central controller replaced. So the easiest thing to be able to do here is to disconnect the post communication wire from the main harness here. You can see that I actually have the name written on here in a way,
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but we just got to disconnect it carefully, and I mean really carefully, as it can tear off. So you want to make sure not to yank it from the end here because if you yank it from the end, it's going to
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come off of here and you're screwed. You're going to have to replace the cable. So always take it off from this end right here and just wiggle it until it comes off. So this is the rear wire,
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and we're going to be pulling this side off in a bit. Let's go ahead and go to the other one. Okay, this one here is the same deal. This is the wire you want to take off. Again, all we want to do is grab
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it from here and here and start pulling carefully. If you see a slight opening, grab your fingernail and start pulling it out just like that because we do not want to tear this wire off of the harness from
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there. The rest is going to be much easier to pull out. Only three wires should be coming out: this green one, which is for the battery; this white one, which is the front post communication; and the other cable that I showed you guys earlier,
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that's the rear communication. All righty, from here, we just remove the wire, pull it out, get the ambient lighting out of the way, take the wire all the way off, do the same thing with this one here, and there we go, got the wire
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off. Okay, so one thing that I just noticed, guys, is that this cable right here for the post communication for the front drive board has some heat shrink. I'm going to let you guys know right now, right off the bat, that I did not do this.
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So this RS came like this from me, from the factory, not from Voral Motors because Voral Motors is just a dealer; they're not a manufacturer. So this came from InMotion like this, while this wire, on the other hand, is technically untouched. So
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this is interesting to see. I would suggest that you guys take a good look at your RS and make sure that your cables are not like this as well. But the new cable is not like that, so we're
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going to go ahead and swap it all out. I'm glad they provided everything that I need to do this repair, so let's go ahead and get all of this off and start installing the new wire. All righty, guys,
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hopefully you guys can see this okay, but this is the original cable from InMotion that is round, and you can see the damaged pinched wire right there. So this new wire does not have that problem. It also has a
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redesigned little plug end right here versus this one. So it's disappointing to see that InMotion sent something like this to a customer on a $4,000 scooter. This is bad, but the good thing is that I know how to repair them. All I end up
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needing is just the parts. Since I have them, we're gonna do the swap now. All righty, guys, hopefully you guys can see everything okay here on the scooter. So what we're going to be doing here, we're going to be taking off the
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screws that are here: one, two, three, and four, and then move this plate out of the way, and we're going to do the same thing with the rear and then get all these wire harnesses off and basically get it
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off of the scooter. So let's go ahead and start with that. And now we do the backside, and I apologize if you hear any kid noise. It's a Saturday, and I wasn't aware that people were going to actually
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be here today. Kind of sucks because weekends are usually the only time I have to make videos. All right, there's the access to the panel. Okay, so real quick, for the screws for those front and rear panels, the
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plastic parts, you actually need a 3mm hex key. All righty, guys, so unfortunately, for part of the setup, you are going to have to remove the handlebar, so just carefully remove the screws from the top here and also move the display up and
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get the ones in the bottom right here. So I'm going to go ahead and start working on that now. Come over here this way, remove those two. So now we should be able to pull this handlebar completely off. Yep,
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there we go. So let's just rest it right here on top of the cobble light just like that, and now we can get access to this. All right, pulling the cables off from the top here. All right, we got the cables off now. Now
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we can go ahead and go back here and remove the screws from here. All right, so now we grab the blue millimeter hex key, which is this one right here, and we're going to go ahead and start taking off
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this one, this one, this one down here, and this one down here. So let's go ahead and take care of that now. And this, my friends, is usually what technicians do, and it takes time to be able to properly get the job
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done. Most of these guys handle your stuff with care. At least I know if I was the one doing work for you, I would handle things with care and make sure to do the job right the first time before it shifts back to
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you. The only practice I've been getting on InMotion RS repairs has actually been my buddy Austin's RS and my own. Well, there you go. Here's the old central controller here. We're about to install the new one. All righty, now we're going to slide
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the new one on. Here's the new one. So this is it here. It even has a new serial number. This wire is going to go through this side. This second wire that's right next to the one that's supposed to
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go on here is going to go to the opposite side because it has four wires. One of them is for the turn signal, the power button, the throttle, and the brake line, so that has to go on this side over here,
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and this wire on this side here, the wires with the three pins, go on this side right here like you can see here, just like that, and the other wire with the four pins goes on this side. This has the wire for the horn, the
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wire for the LED light a...
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this way the screw sits aligned in the threaded hole usually you hear a little click sound and then you're able to put it on just like that and I don't want to overtighten them because I want to make
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sure that I get to get the bottom screws on as well all right there we go that's on let's go ahead and start wiring everything up all righty ladies and gentlemen so it's been a while it took me a bit to be able to take this off and
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put it back on including wiring uh harness through this area so uh not bad for my first try what I'm going to be doing now is just installing this bag right here that you see this one here I
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have it with straps and as you can see it's rounded up so I'm going to run it through this plastic thing right here and then lock it into place with the screws so this way I can put my battery
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which is for this cable right here and this battery pack for those aftermarket fog lights that I have right here that you can kind of see on the screen so uh let me go ahead and put that on it's
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just real simple you just move this flap up a little bit like this just like that and you slide this right in from the top first run it a little bit this way I know it's going to be a little bit
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difficult to see and I apologize but this is how I have to do it once I have it on I can tighten it up a little bit just like that and then slide it down and do the same thing with the next
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strap and it's not going to be perfect but it's going to be good enough to be able to use for uh the battery pack and this is something separate on the side of this controller thing that's here but
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I figured I would share what I'm doing so pretty much it's G to be like that and all we got to do now is just tighten it up from the top here two screws in the top two screws in the bottom and
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this pack will remain put and it won't be moving anymore all righty ladies and gentlemen so I have officially put everything back on uh other than just the uh battery all the wiring you can see at the bottom here I'm going to go
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ahead and give you guys a closer look real quick all right man so that technically took a minute for me to do uh to put all of this back especially cuz I also have the these extra cables that you see here which are for the uh
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chiggy A5 and um yeah it's uh everything's wired up it's ready to go the next thing we're going to be doing is just double testing this to make sure everything's running and we no longer see any codes so I'm going to go ahead
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and plug the battery in so let me go ahead and show you guys that now so you guys can see how nicely the wires look tucked in and uh once we're done with all of this I'll show you guys the cable
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from the original plug and again I'm really disappointed that that cable came with a tear it was probably a pinch wire they probably cut it soldered it put some heat shrink on it and just shoved it in there instead of putting a brand
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new cable so that's kind of messed up but thankfully I was surprised my scooter was working for such a long time that right there could have been the issue that cost the short and just randomly cost this uh Central controller
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to give out meanwhile I have some of you guys here in the comments section basically telling me that it was pretty much my fault because of all the mods that I have all of these things that you see here they run on their own separate
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battery they don't run with the battery of the scooter and even if they did I'm pretty intelligent to the point where I know how to convert voltage from 72 volts down to 12 volts if I really wanted to let me go ahead and just show
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you guys the deck now and I do apologize for my tiny rant it's just that it really bothered me to be hearing that people are automatically assuming that I'm actually breaking my own scooter intentionally just by adding accessor
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like come on guys have some common sense let's go to this uh deck already all righty guys so here's the wiring that you can see for the front drive board it's exactly 100% the same as it was when I
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got it from the manufacturer so again this is the front side and you guys can see it's nicely organized it's zip tied there's no issues with it that green cable is the cable for the BMS system for the battery so uh let's go ahead and
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go to the other side all righty my friends and now this is the rear side this is the side where I had the turn signals on and the brake light so what I did was I went ahead and I decided to
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just disconnect the rear tail lights that I had on the deck area and the reason why I did that is because there might have been an issue with overcurrent I'm not 100% sure I did get in touch with in Motion in motion let me
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know that no what you did would not cause this it can be something else it's exactly what they told me over email and they're the ones who told me me that since you are still under warranty we will cover you but you'll have to get in
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contact with voral motors before we can send you a replacement part and so I did so there you have it this is what it looks like so you guys know that the only thing that needs to be put in there
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is just the battery battery just needs to be reconnected once everything is assured that it works I can start putting everything back and then uh managing the wire harness by putting that wire loom back on as well as some
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zip ties so let me go ahead and grab the battery and we'll see the Moment of Truth all righty ladies and gentlemen so I have the um battery connected and now we're going to test out this thing and
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we'll see if this solved the problem and if not contact voral Motors again and see what's up all righty ladies and gentlemen and here we go for the moment of truth let's see what happens I'm going to go ahead and push the power
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button right now yep no dice God damn it and that took a long time to put this uh Central controller on man and that did not fix the issue okay let's check out the app real quick so as you guys can see it did
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reset my um information but okay I am getting a headlight so that's good turn signals working so that's a good sign check the other light same thing so okay so I at least have lights that's a good sign but now
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we have to worry about the drive boards this totally dust blow let me see if I can get this to connect okay I do have something here I'm going to go ahead and zoom in for you guys and let you guys see this real
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quick let me adjust the camera okay so let's go ahead and see what it says all right so it's telling me that the front drive board communication failed you may need to check the cable connection or replace the front drive
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board the rear drive board board communication failed you may need to check the connection or replace the rear drive board okay so that was the last thing that it told me too so that means that it is the drive board I'm going to
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go ahead and stop the video here put the scooter back in the shed and then uh we'll come back in whatever time it takes for me to get in contact with voral motors and obviously uh get the parts and I'll update you guys on
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everything so um let's go ahead and cut the clip here man very very disappointed with this so far all righty ladies and gentlemen it is now August 31st 2024 and we have received the uh sinewave controllers also known as Raptor P
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modules as well as Drive boards yeah so um I already installed one which is why I'm wearing gloves right now I'm going to go ahead and remove the rear one and take everything off show you guys how to
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remove that one and the main reason why is because the rear one is is a lot more complicated than the front one to remove but all you need is just the correct tools so let me go ahead and bring you
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over here to the back so that we can start working on this scooter and hopefully it freaking turns on man and I have no more codes so I can take it for a test ride and basically make sure
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everything's working and functioning including the rear turn signals that I have for the scooter on the rear side as long as all of that is working we're good good to go but for sure shout out to voral Motors because they actually
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gave me really fast response time and support for the in motion RS and I got the three pieces I needed under warranty and pretty quickly at that so I'mma put down right here on the screen so you can
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see the dates of delivery and uh it basically the whole problem started around August 10th so it took a little bit but I still got it pretty quickly compared to all the complaints I've been seeing online regarding voral Motors now
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I know that there's probably some people that don't really have patience and they expect things to be done really quick but that's not how it works with a lot of Manufacturers especially for someone like me that works in manufacturing so
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um with that said this is officially round two so let's fight and see what this thing does for us let's go all righty ladies and gentlemen and this right here is the rear sinewave controller also known as Raptor P module
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and D board so this is for the rear we're going to disconnect the first harness which is for the motor the second harness which is for all of the accessory lines as well as the uh brake line turn signals and the uh post
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communication wire and what we're going to do here is also use a wire cutter to just remove the original zip tie that's on here and I have some that look almost the same as the originals they're a little thicker but but they should work
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just fine okay this is so you guys know that this one has never been messed with when it comes to it being taken off uh we then want to set this to the side just like that and we're going to start with the
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blue little plug and a pry tool just to get it open just like that grab a Philip screwdriver and start removing the screw oh this has some tension on there I'll make sure I tighten it back up the
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same and to make sure that we don't lose the screws just close the cap with the screw still in the little blue cover so you see how the screws right there just let it sit in there cover it up so
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it doesn't come off repeat that with the other ones all right and now that we took those uh screws off now we can go ahead and start working on the back side I'm going to show you guys how to remove
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one of the screws but it's pretty much the same method for the other three all righty guys so the next part is going to have to be removing this bolt here on this area we have to take the whole thing out in order to be able
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to get access to the screws that go back here and back here at the upper part of this uh wall area now now I bought these thinking that these low profile Allen keys were going to be able to help me
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not have to remove this I'm unfortunately even with the key there's not enough space to be able to get access to this so this has to come off so I'm not going to give you guys a link for this because this is a waste of
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money just use these M6 type Allen keys to get this off move it over a little bit and then you'll get access to this and then you can just use the same standard key that I do recommend you
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guys to use and we'll go from there let me go ahead and uh show you how to take that off now it is about 86 degrees right now and it's almost 6:00 p.m. and uh I am sweating so excuse the
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sweat drops that you might see falling the screw comes off from this side here that you can see and the other side just gets pushed out grab this with the mallet right here and hit it on the side to get it
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off there we go we got it off now we have access to the rear let me take you guys back here now all right guys so right here I turned up the uh brightness on the camera but this is the
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screw you have to remove move in order to get access to this board so I've seen a lot of people complain online about having to do this um I do semi agree with them if you don't know what you're
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doing and this is your first time doing it I can see why this would be a big problem for someone like you to want to remove this but as you guys can see look the screw is coming off but you had to
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go like the extra mile just to get access to the screw and uh in all reality man the only reason why sine waves would burn out realistically and there's a screw right there by the way the only reason sways would burn out
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is if you mess with them or two you overdrive the scooter and cause it to overheat on you then this can actually damage and give you normally you would get a 202 code for the back because that would let you know that there's an issue
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with the drive board or sine wave control controller but in this case it was a 109 and 209 code which was very hard to diagnose because it could be either the central controller or it can be the sine wve controllers also known
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as Drive boards like I showed you guys earlier so I'm going to go ahead and remove the other screw and we're going to get this off and install the new one all righty ladies and gentlemen now that we have everything off for the drive
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board or the sine wve controller just go ahead and pull it out and as you guys can see this one also has thermop paste on it so we're being a little generous with the thermop paste that I'm going to put on
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right now so let's go ahead and go to the uh basement right now and we'll go ahead and install the uh thermal paste on the new controller all righty ladies and gentlemen so I hope you guys can see
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everything okay I switched on over to my pocket 3 to be able to make this little thing on the desk a lot easier um so here is the uh rear sine wave controller or Raptor P module slash rear drive
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board for the in motion RS um I already installed the front one I haven't powered it on or anything because I want to make sure that I have both of these connected to not have any error issues and uh I need to put some thermal paste
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on this thing before I can install it and because I got so little thermal paste for $40 freaking dollars this thing right here is 11 grams of this kryonaut thermal Grizzly I went with this one because this one was the only
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one that I can get as soon as possible and uh it does up to 250 Celsius of coverage which is about I'm going to say like 482 or 484 Dees Fahrenheit so considering that these do tend to get
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really hot and can actually shut down on you when they reach about 230 plus degrees Fahrenheit it would be a good idea to have something like this they can have a higher Tolerance on the back of this so um we're going to go ahead
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and uh go ahead and start putting some on and we'll go from there now again I am disappointed with this freaking thing here I do regret like not buying an extra one these were $40 a piece for just this tiny thing
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this isn't a lot this is very little but again this is made for like PCS and not for stuff like this and I didn't want to buy any like cheap stuff and not be able to uh properly you know get good
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coverage on here so I got this thermal grizly instead so what we're going to do is is we're going to be doing it like this just apply as much as you can and then we're going to do our best
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to spread it out as much as we can it's almost done add a little more to the end here yep and there we go it's finished this is done so this should be enough but I do swear that you know they should
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have provided at least 16 gr and not 11 gr for 40 bucks so now what we're going to do here is even out the spread just as much as you can man get as much coverage it's not going to be
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perfect and it doesn't have to be perfect but you do have to get at least some decent coverage on this and after taking a look at the first one there's only a specific area that really needs it and the rest of
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not it's not going to be perfect but good enough of a spread to protect the uh sine wave controller there you go there that should be more than good enough coverage right there guys and a decent spread so we're going to go ahead
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and for the sake of whatever we have here we're going to leave the thermal past that's already in the r against the wall of the uh RS uh deck plate and just attach this to it and screw it down so
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uh now that this is done let's go ahead and install it all righty ladies and gentlemen so here are the uh controllers this is the new one I actually have uh the date you can kind of see it there a little bit
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that I put down right here for the date that I received the uh Drive board and here's the old one here's the uh thermal paste that I just applied to the new one it's hard to see it because of
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the um video lighting but I have new thermal paste on here so let's go ahead and install this new one and uh see how things go there we go all righty guys so the only thing we need to do now is just
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repeat the same process you seen earlier of the rear screws being put back on and then I'm going to show you guys how to reinstall this so I'm going to do this off camera real quick wire everything up
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zip tie it down and then the last thing we're going to put on is going to be this uh control arm and then we're going to take the battery out plug everything in and hope to God that everything works
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so let me go ahead and uh stop the video here and I'll go ahead and get to that now all righty so the next part is going to be putting the control arm back on here hopefully you guys can see
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everything uh we got to put this really big screw back on on this side here going this way and then using this screw right here to lock it back into place place so uh we are going to need a
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mallet so we have a rubber mallet here that we're going to be using and right now what we're going to need to do is just lift it up and try to align it as much as you can I have it on a jack stand but if I
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didn't have it on a jack stand it would be much easier to put on so we just got to align the holes and run this through it's not quite there yet there we go got to make sure this one's aligned
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it's not fully aligned there we go it's now on and uh shout out to my wife for helping me out because she's actually holding on to the front handlebar for me because I chose to use this oversized and Overkill jack
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stand for this uh in motion RS but it's better to have something high-end for a jack stand than something cheap so um make sure you guys give the video a thumbs up if you appreciate my spouse giving me a hand
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last thing we need to do here is just tighten this up here there we go and we're done all right you can go baby thank you appreciate it all right so I do apologize if I did happen to lose the angle of the uh
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control arm but it is now on now these wires are long enough to run back in here like this and again I do apologize for my freaking sweat drops man it is very hot outside it's already past 6 o'clock and
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it's like 81 degrees outside so it is very very hot man very hot so we're doing here is just screwing the remainder of these plugs back on and I wasn't going to show this but you know I want you guys to see that the
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new one is indeed on and uh I give a special shout out to all the content creators out there that do tutorial videos on repairs because if you work solo man you know for a fact how hard it is
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to actually get good video footage when you have nobody to assist you man in fact to make sure that I have the best close-ups possible man I have a 43in Samsung t TV connected to my Sony Alpha 74 with some uh axum c c view H I
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believe is what they're called and uh they run through wireless HDMI so I can put the camera in any position I want and make sure that I get the best possible footage for my blind eyes since I do have to wear
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glasses now the reason why I am recording this part here is also because I want to make sure that you guys get to see how this thing works and why sometimes when you send your scooter to voral Motors it takes a
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bit for you to get your scooter back because it takes a bit of work to get this stuff done it also takes a process when you're under warranty and you have to get parts VOR Motors has to make sure
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to contact the uh manufacturer and let them know what went wrong with the scooter and what code they're getting to make sure that they approve the parts and then send out the parts to voral Motors so I commend everybody at VOR
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Motors man for uh helping me out getting the uh cental controller and also these uh sine wve controllers also known as Drive boards under the app all right man so this is done right here so what I'm going to do now is just tuck in these
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wires nicely here with some zip ties just the way they were earlier tuck them in nicely so that the battery doesn't crush anything should be an easy install especially for something like this a little scary to be running but
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it'll work it'll do its job bam there's one let's go ahead and do this one too we'll put it here bam now that's out of the way all right dudes this is done let's go ahead and grab the battery plug it in
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and Hope to God we don't have any more codes we'll test out the front and rear motor make sure everything's running and then we'll wrap this up put the battery in its place put all the screws and everything back on on the deck and uh
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take it off for a test ride make sure everything works all righty ladies and gentlemen here's the battery we're going to just plug it in at the top real quick we're going to connect the green cable which is the BMS info there is an arrow
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that points here and here so you know where to guide this here's the cable for the front front motor cable for the rear motor those are the only plugs that matter at this moment the only plugs that matter okay nothing else does these
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two plugs that you can see here are for the charging port nothing more all right we plugged it in there's the power button so you guys can see everything I'm turning it on here's my hands here we go did this clear the code 209 and
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109 let's find out yes it did there we go so I have a reset on the miles a reset on the odometer because we have a new Central controller now it's time to test to see if we can get the
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front motor and rear motor to move they are indeed moving so gear one 19 miles an hour gear two 39 miles an hour gear three 59 actually 60 M hour gear four 79 miles hour though I would never take it to
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that extent but everything's functioning let's go ahead and turn on the lights make sure we have everything working all right there's my turn signals there for the rear left turn right turn there you go everything is functioning nothing's wrong so there you have it uh
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let me go ahead and um put this battery on seal everything up with the screws and everything and we'll take it out for a test ride in the uh insta 360 Ace Pro let's handle this all righty ladies and
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gentlemen we're going to be taking a ride here on the uh in motion RS hopefully you guys can see everything good wanted to show you guys the rear turn signals that are working so you can see there you
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go do the back side on the right all righty the front lights which are connected these ones here are connected to their own independent battery turn this one on too there you go and then here's the uh the chiggy
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ao5 giving you very good valuable information including Android auto so here you go has a map and music we have the rear camera here I know it's hard to see I'm noticing that there's some kind of like rainbow
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effect so I do apologize for that this is the um front camera the rear with the uh front little popup screen the front and back to the rear so this is pretty tight we're going to go ahead and um get going so here we
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go all right all right let's see how it does seems to have a lot more torque it spinned out of control just now and I actually lowered down the torque to 25% so interesting to see that oh it's a little tarer to turn cuz
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I lifted it up to level three so it is a little harder to turn I actually feel like it has more torque to it what the hell I'm going to have to check the settings hold on let me pull over right
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here guys hold on I got to check this okay hold on real quick man uh let's go under the settings no yeah acceleration for is set to 25% for the front and for the rear and then the brake force is at 60 let's drop
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it down to 20 all right we dropped it down to 20% let's see if that uh improves the uh the smoother acceleration okay yeah I do that extra 5% made a big difference it feels nicer too to have it on the
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uh on the third level much higher off the ground I actually can see in front of me what this dude here in this micrus uh can see in front of him because he doesn't have tinted windows but yeah man it took 22 days
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guys 22 days total to get this scooter up and running after it broke down and again uh the one in the rear could have been me like I mentioned earlier because I had connected two additional LED lights at 3 wats each to
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the brake LED light and that might have been way too much current like of a draw so that one most likely did follow me but the front one no and that was one of the reasons why I was angry and why I
Speaker A
used profanity on the previous video because there were a lot of people speculating their own garbage about how what exactly it is that I did to the scooter how do you know what I did to the scooter if you weren't with me at
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the time that it happened that is I don't understand how some of you guys not all of you guys man but like random people just come into this Channel and then just start spewing their garbage and if you don't own an RS
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you know how do you know how do you know what's going on with it that 209 and 109 code is a very tricky code to uh diagnose cuz it's either an issue with the central controller or the drive
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boards or and the drive boards so that's something to take into account but so far it's riding really good I actually had to lower down the torque to 20% on the old one I had to put it at 25
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on this one it was actually skinning out of control from the front motor let's switch it out to the back there we go I'm going to have to definitely adjust the camera angle cuz it's facing up too high
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so the goal here is just to make a run you know to from Highland Park over to uh to Eagle Rock and back to Highland Park see if I can lower this down there we go now I can actually see
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things oh yeah much better all all righty let's go ahead and slow down here oh yeah even the uh the braking is doing pretty good wow I'm wondering if that right there is the sine wave controllers that I just
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replaced or both the sinewave controllers and the central controller because even the central control controller when I signed in with the in motion app like under the phone it paired instantly and with my other one I was always having these uh connection errors
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but so far it's doing good we got everything on turn signals and everything is working so we're all good that means I get to take it to work tonight it's pretty awesome so I work uh Friday nights and
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Saturday nights at the uh plant and then Tuesday Wednesday Thursday I work at home and then Sunday and Monday are my days off all right not bad it does definitely feel a bit different having it on level three so level
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three definitely feels different but in a good way like you feel the road just a tiny bit less and you can see things just a tiny bit better as well as you're looking forward all right there reason why I'm keeping
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all of this rolling too is just to make sure that if something does go wrong it gets recorded so so far I have four miles in both the chiggy and the uh RS show four miles chiggy shows 4.1 the RS under the ab shows 4.3 miles
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and on the trip in information on the actual scooter itself it shows four I reach 55 PSI that was pretty quick going to have to lower that down e e all righty so far it's doing good guys so we're going to wrap this up real
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quick and I'm going to meet you guys in the basement and give you guys my final thoughts on the whole experience guys all right let's go to that all righty guys so this is going to be almost wrapping up the video I want to try to
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make this as short as possible and get down to the point so uh the scooter performed very well in fact it perform better than when I got it out of the box and um I had to lower down the torque
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to 20% from 25% and then it felt like the way I had it before so again I wasn't sure if it was because I lifted up the scooter to level three but level three felt amazing I was actually able
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to see up higher and it just felt nicer and I can see things a little bit better just having it a couple inches more off the ground which is amazing so my experience with voral motor customer service went from neutral feedback of
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50/50 to 85% positive and 15% negative if you want to call it that and the main reason why is because of the fact that I did kind of have to keep poking at them at their hip in order for
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me to like tell them hey guys I'm over here can you guys still help me with this you know I still need help with this peev and kind of get their attention in that manner but I did get a
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resp responds back every time I would actually ask a question and I've seen online that other people were complaining oh man I haven't had any questions answered in like two or three months but I didn't have that experience
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my experience was actually quite good other than that consistent thing where I have to keep talking to these guys and asking them questions to get them to speak to me but the support that I got from Melvin from Levin and from mic was amazing and
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because of that I decided to continue to do business with voral motors and what I mean by that is that I actually purchased another PE I can't wait to show you I'm super excited about it I've been debating
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buying this PE for quite a while I had a lot of my friends in the group rides convincing me hey when are you going to join our crew of getting this type of p and I kept saying okay let me think
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about it I'm a little on the short side I'm 5 foot 6 so I'm a lot shorter uh my oldest son is 5'8 and my wife is almost 5' n so my wife is taller than me and uh
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like several inches and uh for someone like me of my 5' 6 height I need something that's not too tall that's one of the reasons why I didn't pick up the Cabo wolf King GT are cuz it's like a
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foot off the ground and that's just way too high so um I'm excited to really show you guys this PV I'm not going to do an unboxing of it because there's a couple upgrades that I really do have to
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do right off the bat in order for it to work for my intended usage and my current weight uh 292 with gear so I went up a pound man but um I'm still going to the gym I just didn't get to go
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to the gym this time for 20 days because my uh 22 days actually because my RS was out of order and I wasn't about to risk taking my GT1 which uh locked me out of uh the security setting when I took it
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and it was in direct sunlight so that was another thing for me to be really scared of so um yeah I'm super excited though man I can't wait to show you guys the everything once it's done I'll reveal it to you guys but for now I'm
Speaker A
going to keep it secret but because of their customer service that is why I decided to buy another peev from voral Motors I did get the extended warranty for 3 years just to have some peace of mind so when it comes to the in motion
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RS who do I recommend the scooter for I honestly recommend the scooter for people who are Enthusiast scooter enthusiasts who already have higher-end hypers scooters that are familiar with how they work and know how to treat them the other kind of person would be
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someone who already knows how to grab an allen key or a wrench and knows how to to fix electric scooters if you're somebody that already has experience with replacing Parts like very important parts like what I did in
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this video other than just break pads or break this then this might be a scooter for you because chances are something might go wrong and if it does you need to be prepared to do your own repairs if
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you're somebody that's new to scooters and you want to get something fast because you want to be done I got to give you a warning on that that it's not a bad scooter these sine wve controllers don't usually break down
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especially if you don't be pushing it to its limits what does tend to mess up on this in motion RS is the cable that I had showed you guys about the motor wire that cable tends to mess up a lot and
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it's because from in motion you have these little white lines that go on both plugs the one that connects to the drive board and the one that connects to the motor and when they're connected together they kind of um don't fully
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align and they just put a little white line mine I found out they were pretty loose even though I they were matching the line with the opposite wire so I decided to tighten mines up all the way and I recommend you do that if you
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choose to get an RS anyways even though I'm giving you a warning about it it's not a bad scooter It's a Wonderful scooter I love the scooter I don't regret buying it I know how to work on it
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as long as I have the replacement parts I can fix it simple as that same thing goes with the seway GT1 I've already dissected that scooter I've already know how it works I know what parts need to be changed out if it ever gives out and
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the same thing with the Segway 9B Max G2 those are scooters I know how to work on on my son's uh solar EQ I just recently opened it up to change a tire I fixed it and I got it rolling again why because
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the previous experience with the other scooters so if this is your first time getting an electric scooter and you've never had something of this caliber I would recommend you get something different um I would recommend you either get the emo Cruiser V2 even
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though I don't have it yet but it'd be nice if I did but the emo Cruiser V2 has shown a lot of great potential and they're also going to have like a modified version where you can add a
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second motor to the front to have even better power for clim which is great so um I would recommend a scooter like that for you would I recommend this for anybody else no I think that uh as much
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as it may affect sales for me giving you guys my tag 193 midnight code I do feel that you have to have some kind of knowledge on repairing the scooter if you have any problems and um that is
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really important when it comes to this so so you don't have to worry about sending your scooter off to a dealer and having to pay for labor work you can do the labor work yourself as long as you
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have the right tools I'm pretty overall happy with the scooter I'm not going to sell it I had a friend telling me to just sell the scooter now that it has a zero miles on it um I don't want to do
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that I love this scooter this scooter actually takes me to work and it does a really good job doing it so I did the next best thing which was buy another PE from Vora Motors so again shout out to
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Melvin Levin the head Tech and Mike who helped me out with this entire process man you guys are the best thank you so much and uh I look forward to uh introducing to you guys the new PE that
Speaker A
I purchased I'm going to keep very quiet about this one until I have everything that I need for it but uh I'm excited and I can't wait to show it to you it was a pretty good price but I'll show
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you guys that once I actually introduce you to the scooter with that said though if you guys have any questions about this in motion RS in the repair process of the 109 and 209 code which was a very
Speaker A
hard code to diagnose comment down below and I'll be sure to respond back to your comment just please do not be sarcastic about stuff because I'm just going to ignore you so I'm going to start doing that moving forward because um I
Speaker A
shouldn't have let those comments get to me and I did and that is why I use profanity and I normally don't do that it takes a lot for my buttons to be pushed in order for me to get super
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angry and start using profanity so with that said I'll let you guys go thank you very much for sticking around all the way to the end and I hope you guys enjoyed watching this video and a repair and I hope that this video helps the
Speaker A
next person going through a 109 or 209 code so I'll see you guys very soon on the next video peace for now
Topics:InMotion RScentral controller replacementscooter repairerror code 109error code 209wiring harnessInMotion appscooter maintenancehex keybattery communication cable
