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Do you want a bountiful harvest of everbearing raspberries next year? You must take care of them in the fall. One of the most common mistakes when growing raspberries is pruning their stems right after the very first frost.
Learn how to properly care for everbearing raspberries in autumn to avoid yield loss and ensure a rich harvest next year.
Key Takeaways
- Do not prune raspberry stems immediately after the first frost; wait until late winter or early spring.
- Leaves continue to nourish roots after frost, so early pruning reduces nutrient reserves and yield.
- Use a chlorine-free fertilizer mix and mulch to enrich soil and protect plants over winter.
- Covering plants in early spring accelerates growth and leads to earlier and larger harvests.
- Proper timing and methods of pruning and fertilizing prevent diseases and improve raspberry productivity.
What the video covers
- Avoid pruning raspberry stems immediately after the first frost to prevent nutrient loss and reduced yield.
- Leaves, even if slightly frozen, continue photosynthesis and transfer sugars to roots for overwintering.
- Prune raspberry stems only in late winter or early spring to reduce disease risk and support healthy growth.
- Supplemental feeding after leaf fall is crucial; use a custom fertilizer mix without chlorine for best results.
- Apply 30 grams each of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per square meter, followed by mulch and biological treatments.
- Wood ash can be used as an alternative fertilizer, especially on acidic soils, to optimize soil pH for raspberries.
- Cover raspberries with plastic film and non-woven fabric after snow melts to accelerate early vegetation and fruiting.
- Remove covers only after the risk of late spring frost has passed to protect vulnerable shoots.
- Proper autumn care leads to disease-free plants and significantly higher raspberry yields.
- Using Trichosan, Clonosan, and Mineralit Premium enhances fertilizer effectiveness and disease prevention.
Chapters
- 00:00Common Mistakes in Autumn Raspberry Pruning
- 00:40Importance of Leaves and Nutrient Transfer
- 01:19When to Prune Raspberry Stems
- 01:53Disease Prevention Through Proper Pruning
- 02:38Supplemental Feeding and Soil Preparation
- 03:19Recommended Fertilizer Mix and Application
- 03:51Biological Products and Alternative Fertilizers
- 05:06Soil pH and Benefits of Wood Ash
- 05:39Early Spring Covering for Faster Growth
- 06:10Protecting Raspberry Shoots from Late Frosts
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
Speaker A
After the raspberry harvest season ends, many try to prune the plants down to the ground, thereby significantly losing out on their yield. Remember, even if the raspberry leaves have frozen slightly, they can still continue to photosynthesize and send
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sugars, the so-called assimilates. Everything useful that has accumulated in them goes to the roots. Early pruning deprives the roots and underground shoots of raspberries of a rich source of nutrients, which will be the key to both successful overwintering and a rich harvest. Under
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no circumstances should you cut off this harvest. The most pruning you can do on everbearing raspberries in the autumn is to remove these clusters of berries that are no longer destined to develop into a full crop. But do not
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cut the stems themselves under any circumstances. Save this pruning for late winter or early spring. Besides allowing the roots and underground shoots of the raspberries to be saturated with nutrients, this will also prevent your raspberries from being infected early with various
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diseases. For example, didymella, if you had it. Over the winter, these stems will likely freeze, dry out, and die along with the disease pathogens.
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And late-winter or spring pruning will only help to keep diseases in check. To help the raspberries move nutrients from the leaves to the underground shoots—that is, to redirect the flow of nutrition from nourishing the ovaries to nourishing the roots,
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underground shoots, and buds—it is necessary to provide supplemental feeding. However, root feeding won't help here, and dry fertilizer applications won't help either. After the frosts arrive and the leaves fall from the raspberry canes, you must necessarily enrich the soil and create
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a reserve of beneficial fertilizers in the ground, as well as cover the raspberries with some warm mulch, because everbearing raspberries in our climate sometimes, though not often now, can still freeze. What kind of dry fertilizers should you use? Since
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raspberries do not tolerate chlorine in the soil very well, we do not use pre-made mixes, but make the mixture ourselves. We take, for example, superphosphate. See, I have this ammophos. Nitrogen during the period when the leaves have fallen from the
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raspberries and light frosts have arrived is not dangerous at all. On the contrary, the presence of a small amount of nitrogen next to phosphorus significantly increases the effectiveness of phosphate fertilizers.
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And we take 30 grams of superphosphate per square meter and the same amount of potassium sulfate. It is better if you take them in a poorly soluble granular form. Such types are now also produced not for dissolving, but for direct
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application to the soil. Fertilize your raspberries with this mixture at a rate of 30 grams of each per square meter, after which you cover it with any mulch, compost, or wood shavings—anything at all. Just don't forget that you
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absolutely must put Trichosan under the mulch. Also, if your berries get moldy even occasionally, be sure to add Clonosan, just one tablespoon per 5 m². It's very, very economical. Adding Mineralit Premium will significantly increase the effectiveness of both the
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fertilizers you apply and these kinds of biological products. A tablespoon per 5 m² will also be enough to enhance the action of any fertilizers or biological products. Instead of mineral fertilizers, especially on acidic soils, you can easily use half a
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liter of wood ash per square meter. Everyone knows well that raspberries grow excellently on burned-out areas.
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This is not only because there is more light, but also because acidic forest soils are often alkalized, bringing the soil pH to values of about 6-6.5, which are so optimal for our raspberries. And now, for those who watched until the
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end, here is a small life hack on how to increase raspberry yields immediately by several times, without feeding or fertilizers. Without any preparations, without anything at all.
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In our climate, everbearing raspberries often don't have time to yield their entire crop due to early cold weather.
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For this reason, people resort to various tricks. For example, they don't prune the raspberries completely, trying to turn everbearing raspberries into summer-bearing ones so they produce at least some early wave of fruiting. In reality, everything is very, very simple. As soon as the snow
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melts, take and cover the raspberries first with plastic film, and as the outside temperature rises, so the raspberry shoots don't get steamed once they appear. Cover them with non-woven fabric. As a result, the early vegetation of the raspberry stems will
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speed up several times over. And this will provide an earlier wave of fruiting. It will enter the fruiting stage at the beginning of August instead of the end, or even earlier.
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But do not remove this cover until the risk of frost has passed, because raspberry stems are, unfortunately, vulnerable to late spring frosts. Once the risk of frost has passed, remove any cover. You can use hoops or sticks to support it; there are a million
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options here. But this really helps you harvest raspberries earlier and in much greater quantities. Well, use these tips for autumn raspberry care, and you will have a wild harvest, free of diseases and rot. See you soon.
Topics:everbearing raspberriesraspberry pruningautumn raspberry careraspberry fertilizationraspberry diseasesmulching raspberriesearly raspberry fruitingorganic raspberry careraspberry yield improvementgarden tips
