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The sun is shining right in my eye. Wishing everyone prosperity. I’m Volha Dubrova, and you are on the Pro Tsvetok channel. Today, I will tell you about rose care in October, in simple scientific terms, so everything is good
Learn essential rose care tips for October to ensure healthy overwintering and vibrant blooms next season.
Key Takeaways
- Proper October care sets the foundation for next year's rose health and flowering.
- Avoid nitrogen fertilizers in autumn; focus on phosphorus and potassium for root and wood strengthening.
- Careful defoliation and removal of diseased leaves prevent infections and frost damage.
- Gradual preparation and appropriate mulching are essential for successful winter protection.
- Different rose varieties need specific pruning and covering techniques.
What the video covers
- October rose care is crucial for preparing roses for winter and ensuring successful flowering next year.
- Stop growth of actively growing shoots and help mature stems ripen for winter hardiness.
- Apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in October if missed earlier, avoiding nitrogen to strengthen roots and wood.
- Water roses sparingly in October, only if soil is dry and no rain has occurred.
- Remove buds and flowers by pinching off to signal roses to prepare for dormancy, but leave rose hips intact.
- Preserve healthy green leaves as long as possible for photosynthesis; remove diseased leaves to prevent infection.
- Defoliate carefully by trimming leaves rather than pulling to avoid damaging buds and stems.
- Use chemical treatments like urea or copper sulfate cautiously for defoliation and pathogen control; avoid high concentrations of iron sulfate.
- Prepare roses for covering gradually by pruning old canes, mulching with compost or peat, and mounding soil when temperatures drop.
- Different rose groups require tailored pruning and covering methods to ensure optimal winter protection.
Chapters
- 00:00Introduction and Importance of October Rose Care
- 01:32Role of Phosphorus and Potassium in Rose Preparation
- 02:58Stopping Growth and Removing Buds for Dormancy
- 04:11Leaf Care and Disease Management
- 05:38Proper Defoliation Techniques and Chemical Treatments
- 08:26Gradual Preparation for Covering and Mulching
- 11:04Pruning Old Canes and Specific Rose Group Care
- 13:20Final Tips on Mulching and Winter Protection
Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown
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for the next season. What needs to be done with roses in October? This is perhaps one of the most important stages, during which the success of next year’s rose flowering is laid down. Because, first of all, they need
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to be prepared for covering. That’s the first point. Then, stop the growth of those still actively growing—I’ll tell you how—and help those that have strengthened and matured by the end of the season to ripen. Like, they have formed a certain type of wood.
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The question arises: should you feed roses in October? Of course, you know this perfectly well and remember that we stopped using any nitrogen fertilizers back in August. If someone didn't manage to feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in
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September or August, you can do it now, because phosphorus takes a long time to become available to plants. It is precisely this autumn feeding that will be beneficial. Gradually, they will absorb phosphorus, which does what? Yes, it strengthens the root system.
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Potassium also helps the wood to mature—well, for the stems to ripen and prepare for winter—so the root system works well and stores various substances and sugars so they can overwinter perfectly. Is any watering needed? Well, look, October is
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generally a rainy month, and if there is no rain in your region, then periodically—maybe once a week, when you’ve checked the soil and it’s completely dry—then, of course, you can water them a little. But all watering should gradually stop if there
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is rain. The soil here is quite moist for me, so that’s it, no more watering should be done. And if it’s dry, then only very, very rarely, just to help the plant absorb nutrients while it’s still green and thereby
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prepare to enter the winter period perfectly. What should you do with rose bushes if they are still blooming? Some even have buds, and some have already started forming fruit. If in August we pruned—we could still afford to prune
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in early August down to the first leaf or below the first leaf—now we will just snap off the inflorescences. So, you come to your beautiful rose garden and see a large number of buds and inflorescences, and you really want to
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keep admiring them, but let’s give a signal to the plant and its physiology that it’s time to prepare for winter.
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Therefore, you just nip off the buds or flowers from the top. And you can place them on saucers, the buds and flowers, and admire them indoors. But this must definitely be done in the month of October. If you see rose hips—well,
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that’s what I call the little fruits—then don’t touch them. Their ripening will also serve as a signal that the roses are preparing to overwinter, and the process is finishing. The seeds have set, the process is ending, and they are
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naturally entering a dormant state. You can start pulling off the leaves. Well, perhaps many who have listened to my information about roses already know that I am very protective of leaves, because a leaf is a living organism. It
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is, first of all, photosynthesis using the sun; it is transpiration, and it is the respiration of the leaf. And therefore, as long as the leaf is green, life is happening, and the plant is still gathering its strength. Brought
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in from other regions where its growing season is practically year-round. Here, we need to help our roses be stronger through the work of the leaf blade. But, of course, if black spot or powdery mildew has already taken hold, then you
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should definitely pick off all those leaves right now and collect whatever has fallen around. And such leaf fall happens to roses when they are sick, or they are old bushes, or old canes that you didn't prune in time—take them
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away to burn or bury them somewhere completely different, not within your rose garden. You can begin forced preparation by starting to pull them off from the bottom up so that the bush is ventilated and these pathogens from the ground do not reach the upper part
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of your bush. Sometimes we need to get everything done quickly to close up our summer cottage for the winter and lock it up, and then you want to strip everything off because, of course, it’s written in black and white
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everywhere that roses should be covered without leaves. But let me remind you again: allow the rose to remain in a green state for as long as possible, provided it is healthy. You can pull them off by hand, but it shouldn't be
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done like that, because at every point where a leaf joins the stem, there is a bud for next year that will wake up in the spring. By pulling them off like that, we damage the integrity of the stem’s covering, and infection can
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get in there, moisture can get in there; then there will be frost, then it will tear, and as a result, next spring your shoots, even if they were covered, will still end up being frostbitten and chilled—they will turn out damaged
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and may even die completely. This is regarding mechanical pulling. That is, if the leaf is green and you need to get all this done, we will trim them, not pull them. Carefully trim them with sharp pruning shears. They also
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recommend performing this defoliation, for example, with iron sulfate. I would advise you to be extremely careful with iron sulfate, because yes, your foliage will fall off in a couple of days, but at the same time, the young, unripened
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areas where you caused any mechanical damage, all those wounds, and all the young shoots can suffer severe burns.
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And, of course, they won't be able to survive until spring. Therefore, that recommendation and the dosage of 300g of iron sulfate per 10 liters of water is quite a high concentration. And if you still want to use iron sulfate,
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well, if you absolutely must use iron sulfate, it should be done when there are no leaves left on the plant and when the temperatures are lower than they are now. Copper sulfate. Yes, that is a milder option. Moreover, all these
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products, when we drench the area, will help clear infection from the root zone, the area under the crown, and the stems. Copper sulfate in the same concentration, but copper sulfate will not cause defoliation; it will only treat various pathogenic fungi. Of the
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products that work well without harming the plant, I would suggest urea at a concentration of 500g per the same 10 liters of water. It will also cause defoliation. The defoliation will be gentler. And besides defoliation and pathogens, it will also kill various
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pests. So, we can essentially kill two birds with one stone with such a treatment. So, you choose. Either you process your bush manually, or you carry out this eradicating treatment with chemical agents. Then the question arises: how should we prepare them for
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covering? We do this gradually. And for different groups of roses, this preparation is completely different.
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Right now, we have had the pre-preparation. We are pruning, picking off leaves, performing defoliation, and gradually, as low temperatures arrive, we will prepare them. You actually need to prepare in advance so that you have dry material on hand. This can be compost, or it can
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be peat. I don't recommend sawdust, because if the fraction is fine, it packs down, gets soaked with water, and then simply freezes, which can only harm your plants. Why are we preparing this? To mulch after we have mounded
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the soil. Mounded with what? Either with compost, or the same peat, or soil, but not taken from here, in the root zone—I once told you about this—but brought from somewhere else on the plot. Maybe you have such a stock of soil.
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Again, we do the mounding when the daytime temperature hovers around zero, on slightly frozen soil. We cover it with dry material. And subsequently, we wait for the temperature to drop even lower. For what purpose? So that our roses eventually harden off, so they
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don't rot. Because if we just w
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means we will do our roses a huge disservice. Let's focus on the most common groups of roses that both amateurs and professionals have on their plots and in their rose gardens.
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For example, my favorite group lately has become climbing roses. Yes, some say they're so prickly, so unpleasant to work with. But I've realized that this is simply a super group of roses.
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First of all, on one single square meter, you can perform absolute miracles with a climbing rose. You can train them up an arch, onto a trellis, or shape them into some sort of sprawling fountain. You can guide them
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onto supports so their long canes don't naturally droop down. But the main task when preparing climbing roses for winter is to preserve their canes, because climbing roses bloom on last year's growth. Sometimes, of course, they should be shortened by a third.
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The preparation also involves cutting out old canes that are over 4 or 6 years old, depending on the variety.
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And after that, we remove the leaves and slowly start bending them down to the ground. It's not like she's never been bent down before. You take it off the support, untie it, and gently lay it down. If the canes are thick, you
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might need more than one weekend to do it. First, you secure it slightly with a pin or tie it to a stake. Then, the next weekend, you go further and further, pinning and tying it down. You can tie them into a bundle to make it
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more convenient for yourself. When you perform this manipulation year after year, the root collar area becomes more flexible and will agree that sleeping on its side is much more comfortable and safer. And again, we wait for the outside temperature to hit around -5 to
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-7 degrees. And only after that do we cover them with spunbond, pine boughs, or any non-woven material you might have. Of course, it should not be plastic film, because under film, your roses from any group will sweat and rot
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. Another group, well, this is, of course, everyone's favorite. It's the queen of the garden. It's the hybrid tea rose. And with it, the story is a bit more fun. We prune it back to the point where it's convenient for us to
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cover it with whatever material we are using. This is not shaping pruning; this is preparatory pruning. Formative pruning should be postponed until spring, after all. That way it will be clear what has survived and what has not. And we will shape our bush
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accordingly in the spring. The only thing is, we will certainly cut out the immature shoots that are soft and herbaceous. And as you can see, they are purple-colored. We will prune them, not down to the root of course, but
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leave four to five buds, and it will be easy for us to cover them. And here I see a wonderful-looking shoot, but for some reason it has become a blind shoot . We don't really need to keep it
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either. We will shorten it again to four to five buds so that it produces good branches later. Therefore, hybrid tea roses have a wonderful story: they bloom on current-year growth. Prune however you know how, or as I once
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recommended to you. Another group of roses is a wonderful group that is very much in demand right now. This is the Austin group. English roses, or " Austins," as they are also affectionately called. They are so vigorous. Their shoots can be 1.5 to 2
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meters long in a good spot, depending on the variety. And here our task, of course, will be to decide which path we choose: keeping them as a bush or letting them live as a climbing rose, that is, preserving the canes. In that
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case, we lay them down as we do with climbing roses, tie them into bundles, and of course, remove all the leaves, because Austin roses......it just so happens that they are very sensitive to black spot. Therefore, starting in the
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middle of October, we must remove, remove, and remove, so that by the time of covering, not a single leaf remains on the plant. And we clear everything away, naturally; we collect what is on the ground. Therefore, instead of
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pruning, we use bending. If we do prune , we still want them to delight us with their canes. That is why for Austin roses we shorten the shoot by one-third . We cut out the strong, old shoots. "
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Strong" is the wrong word; we cut out old shoots that are more than 4-6 years old so that new shoots appear in the spring. And again, we will try to cover it and preserve last year's shoots, because Austin roses also like to bloom
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on last year's growth. Their blooming is more vigorous, and the plant itself turns out to be healthier and is less affected by this black spot. Some varieties, say, 'Abraham Darby,' are very sensitive to black spot, so you need to think about treating them with
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something. So, what can we treat them with? Either those same preparations, copper sulfate or iron sulfate. I would still advise against using an eradicating treatment and suggest a lower concentration instead. And by the way, if we're being pedantic, these
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eyeball concentrations, say in gardening, where 300g per 10 liters is standard. But in reality, from a chemistry standpoint, it’s not a three-percent solution at all. It turns out to be a much higher concentration.
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According to the rules, we should have taken 300g of the preparation and 9 liters and 700g of water. Only then would it be a three-percent solution.
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Therefore, it is better to reduce the concentration of the solution. It will still work against the pathogens we are treating for. And after that, just like with other groups, we wait for cold daytime temperatures to arrive. We wait
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for when there are steady sub-zero daytime temperatures, to say nothing of the nighttime ones. Naturally, we hill them up to preserve the graft, if the rose is grafted, the graft must be preserved at all costs. We pour a
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bucket of dry soil or compost on top. And we only apply the cover after a good frost has set in. Do not fear that your roses will freeze, because tea hybrids and Austin roses tolerate -5 to -7 degrees very well, not to mention
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climbing roses. Sometimes climbing roses in certain regions, in certain places, are not even taken off their supports at all. And they overwinter just fine. But, as this winter showed, that option didn't work out, at least in Belarus, so it is better to lay it
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on its side and cover it with some material. Now let's see what we are going to do with our rose. Well, look, they have finished blooming. And since there were rainy days, if you do this here, fungal spores are already flying.
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Do not scatter them; if possible, catch them in your hand, just prune them. And this one we cut right under the flower head. Of course, we must weed everything so there are no weeds, because the leaves of weeds sometimes
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carry various diseases. Some kind of process is already starting here. Well, of course, aphids are sitting there, blast them. We don't pull them off; we prune them. We will now clean out the lower part so that it gets good
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ventilation. Yes, it's not a very creative process, but be patient, it’s nothing terrible, we will handle it. I can just prune these healthy leaves to speed things up, and then pick them up. I won't do the whole bush
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, of course, just the lower part. And not even all of it, to save our time.
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You've understood the principle. I don't want to prune now because the weather is wonderful. If I were to cut them now, those buds would start to grow. Even now, you can see this little bump, this swelling. That is where next
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year's bud is already located. And if we do it this way, it will cause a wound, an injury there. And here are the ants that were farming aphids here.
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That's what mutual benefit looks like, you see? We will prune this branch that's growing inward, and this one that's growing inward, but we will prune them at a height of 1, 2, 3 buds.
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This shoot didn't ripen; it has that characteristic purple color, a beet-like or, how should I put it more precisely, complex color. And that's it . Then we prune and wait for cold temperatures to set in. And so that our
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rose goes into winter healthy and is healthy in the spring, let's use Trichoderma, because Trichoderma works at temperatures down to 5 ° C. This product is called Growth Energy. Along with fighting plant diseases, it will also increase soil fertility. [Apply]
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it in accordance with the instructions. I have a very good temperature reserve here for the fungal strains to get started. And we must incorporate it into the soil. Be sure to water it. And if we add some compost here now, or,
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well, if you don't mind a slightly rustic look, mulch it with mown grass, for example, it will be a real treat for the fungal strains. They will start to multiply, and they will have enough time to ensure the health of our bush
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both this season and next season. Don't worry that it's a waste of time and product now in the fall, or that they will freeze out during the winter. No, they will go deeper, and in the spring, they will start up right along with our
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roses. Well, that's all I have on roses in October. Don't forget to visit Protsvetok stores, because right now they have a large amount of rose stock with open root systems, closed root systems, and from various groups. There are some nice promotions. And subscribe
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to our channel, don't forget us. All the best. See you next time.
Topics:rose careOctober gardeningrose pruningwinter preparationrose fertilizationrose wateringrose diseasesdefoliationmulching rosesrose winter protection
