How to Fully Optimize Windows For Gaming — Transcript

Complete Windows optimization guide for gaming, covering BIOS, settings, privacy, and utilities to boost performance.

Key Takeaways

Switch to a local Windows account before applying optimizations to avoid login issues.
Disabling visual effects and background services can reduce system overhead and improve gaming performance.
Windows Game Bar and Game Mode may negatively impact performance; use GPU vendor tools instead.
Paragon Tweaking Utility offers free and paid options for further system optimization.
Adjust BIOS and driver settings carefully to maximize gaming performance without compromising system stability.

Summary

Step-by-step walkthrough of optimizing Windows settings for gaming, starting from a fresh install and BIOS configuration.
Instructions to switch to a local account to avoid issues with PIN/password after tweaks.
Disabling transparency effects, dynamic lighting, Windows Spotlight, and notifications to improve performance.
Privacy and security adjustments to turn off unnecessary background services and telemetry.
Disabling Windows Game Bar and Game Mode in favor of Nvidia Shadow Play or AMD alternatives.
Mouse settings adjustment by disabling enhanced pointer precision to avoid mouse acceleration in games.
Disabling unnecessary startup applications to free system resources.
Use of Paragon Tweaking Utility (PTU) free tier for additional optimizations, with paid options available.
Recommendations on hardware accelerated GPU scheduling and graphics settings based on testing.
Additional BIOS and driver tweaks for network and system performance improvements.

Chapters

Full Transcript — Download SRT & Markdown

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All right, guys. Today, I'm going to be walking you through a complete optimization guide for your PC, start to finish, including BIOS. This is going to be the most in-depth optimization tutorial we have ever posted. This will work for all games, and we have game

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profiles for all those games in our PTU, which we will use in this video. Before we get started, if you're not already, hit that subscribe button and turn on notifications to stay up to date on all of our latest videos and guides to make

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sure you always retain the competitive edge. Also, join our Discord for our latest announcements, updates, and information about upcoming changes, PTU updates, new game support, and early alerts for things like our new PTU giveaway. And last, check out our

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website where you will see our paid services for overclocks, tweaks, dual PC setups, and networking optimizations.

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And in relation to this video, our utilities page, which is where our Paragon tweaking utility is free to download and we'll be using this video.

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We're only going to use the free tier options, but there are paid goodies in the app that can make a massive difference alongside the free plan. So, make sure to check those tiers out on our website. All right, let's get

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straight into it. So, the first thing that we're going to start with is going through Windows settings. This is a fresh install, fresh BIOS, that's why you see the Armory Crate, but we're going to head on over to settings. And

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the first thing that we're going to touch is going to be going to the account section, going to your profile, and make sure that you are on a local account. A lot of the times with some of the tweaks that you end up doing, it will cause

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your PIN or password to be messed up. So once you go into a local account, don't set a password on there and don't set a PIN until after the video if you want to add one. Do all of the video

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setup before you add a PIN or a password, but go ahead and switch to a local account if you're on a Microsoft account. So then after we're good with that, head on over to the personalization tab and go to the color

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section. You can turn off transparency effects and the mode between light and dark is kind of up to you. If you're on an OLED monitor, being on dark can save a little bit of power and otherwise there's no performance hit. I like dark

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mode, so I'm going to set it on dark. After that, go ahead and head back on over to personalization and go to dynamic lighting and turn off use dynamic lighting on my devices for both of these. Then go ahead and go back to

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the personalization. And then for your background, you want to make sure that you are not on Windows Spotlight. This will affect performance. It even affected my capture card today. It was causing weird lag issues. So, make sure that you're not on Windows Spotlight

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where your background is going to be changing constantly while your game is playing. So, just set that on solid color if you want to or a picture. After we're good with that, head on over to system and go to the notifications tab

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and turn off all the settings in here. You can leave this on and turn all these off if you want to be extra safe about it. But you just have to turn off the two main settings at the top. And that's

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all for that. Then go ahead and head on over to privacy and security. And we can turn off the recommendations and offers.

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This is going to help disable a lot of the background stuff that's just going to be running some of these Windows services, Windows API stuff. So, we'll disable that. The speech stuff, if this is on, turn that off. Inking and

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personalization, turn that off. Go to diagnostics and feedback and turn off any of the settings that are in here.

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Then go back, go to search, turn off all of the search history and information in here. Set this to classic. And that's it. Then go back.

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And for all of these settings, these are basically whether or not you're going to need them. I'm going to go through and disable the ones that almost nobody needs. The first one and most important one is going to be location. So, go

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ahead and turn off all the settings in here for location services if they're not already. And then the ones that you definitely want to keep on are going to be your camera, microphone, and voice activation. If you turn these off, then

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your camera and microphone will not work in apps like Discord. And voice activation generally is an app's own implementation, but some apps are now using the voice activation built into Windows. So, you generally want to keep these three on, but we're going to head

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on over to notifications and turn off notifications. And then I'm going to go through the rest. Like I said, I don't need account information. I'm going to turn this off.

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Contacts, turn that off. And I'm going to go through the rest and just basically disable everything that I don't need. And these are going to be for mostly Windows apps. And usually you don't need apps just having access to

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all of these things. So, I'm going to turn them all off. And then once you get past there, you can turn off app diagnostics. This is another high performance one. You definitely want to turn off app diagnostics. And then automatic file

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downloads. You can turn this off if it's on or allowed. But then besides that, the rest of these are going to be file access. You don't really need to touch these. And then the ones that you are going to want to adjust is the text and

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image generation. Definitely turn this one off. And then after we're done with that, you're all good for the privacy and security section. Then we're going to head on over to gaming and go to the game bar first. Unless you

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specifically know that you need to use the game bar for whatever reason, please turn this off. Ideally, use the Nvidia Shadow Play or AMD's implementation for taking clips. Ideally, don't use the Game Bar if you don't absolutely have

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to. Then go back to gaming. Go to game mode and turn off game mode. Then go to graphics and leave the Optimus for optimizations for Windows games on the advanced graphics settings. Hardware accelerated GPU scheduling. In most of

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our tests, it showed that hardware accelerated GPU scheduling did more harm than good, but for some people, this does make a difference. And so, you're probably going to want to try on and off. But if you just want a generalized

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recommendation, then we're going to turn this off. Then once you're good, you can close the settings window. And the next thing that we're going to head on over is mouse, your mouse settings. Go ahead and open that up. Scroll down and hit

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additional mouse settings. This is going to allow us to turn off enhanced pointer precision. Unless you're already used to this setting. Most games will do raw input. But there are some older games that did rely on the Windows API

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for mouse input, and having this on can cause mouse acceleration in that game. Very rare to have any type of game like that anymore, especially competitive ones, but we're going to turn it off anyways just to be safe unless you

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prefer it. You'll notice your mouse feels a little bit different, but you'll get used to that. Next up, we're going to go ahead and disable your startup applications. So, go ahead and open up task manager. Go to the startup section

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and disable anything that you don't need. I'm going to disable OneDrive. I'm going to disable the security. You can disable the Valorant taskbar thing.

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You can disable almost everything in here that you don't need to start up. The cyst tray and the Valorant one are just whether or not it shows up at the bottom right here, not whether or not it's on. Your system security is still

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going to be on and so is the Valorant anticheat. It's just the tray icon that's going to go away. So then once we're good with that, you can go ahead and close task manager. And then you're going to want to open up your browsers.

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If you have any browsers, you can turn off the like run in the background settings.

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toggles are on. This is startup boost, which basically keeps a smaller version of Edge running all the time so that when you open up Edge, it opens faster.

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Nobody wants this. Terrible for performance. Continue running background extensions and apps when Edge is closed, unless you specifically use like a Chrome app that you need to open separately from Chrome. Leave that off and then use graphics acceleration when

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available. This is hardware acceleration. You can use graphics acceleration in older versions of Windows like Windows 10. If you had an app with graphic deceleration on on a second monitor and that second monitor was a lower refresh rate than your main

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one. So think a second monitor that's 60 Hz when your main monitor is 240 Hz. If you had an app with hardware acceleration on on the other monitor, it would cause the main monitor to act as though it's 60 Hz and feel terrible.

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That is usually on older versions of Windows 10 that has been fixed in the latest versions of Windows 11 and the later versions of Windows 10. So most of you won't have to worry about this. It's personal preference. It can lead to

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better performance, but it can cause some GPU usage, which can reduce CPU usage, but sometimes it cause bugs. So, up to you whether or not you leave this on or off, but the general recommendation in the past has been off,

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obviously, because of those bugs with the other operating systems. And that's going to be the case for a lot of applications like Spotify, Discord, you can turn the hardware acceleration in those apps off. Same reason as before, but you don't necessarily need to

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anymore. And it will worsen performance in some ways in those applications. And as far as Discord goes, the number one thing you're going to want to turn off is the overlay in Discord. You do not want the overlay on. You want to turn

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that off. The legacy overlay, the current overlay. That is overlaying something onto your screen. Not ideal for performance. So, go ahead and turn that off. And those are really the only application settings. Besides that, in game launchers like Epic Games, Riot,

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all those game launchers, there's generally not any settings that are important. The game launchers handle themselves pretty well nowadays, but there are sometimes like bandwidth limitation settings that are on to throttle bandwidth if you had set those previously long time ago or something

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and forgot about it. So, it's worth checking the launcher settings, but in a lot of situations, it's not going to make a difference. At least performance-wise, a lot of that's personal preference. The next thing that I want to do after going through the

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hardware acceleration is heading on over down to the sound icon, right clicking it, hitting sound settings, scroll down, and go to more sound settings. In the sound tab, you'll see I only have these devices, but for you, you're going to

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want to go through all the devices that you use, and ideally all of them, and rightclick them, go to properties, go to the enhancements tab if there is one, and disable all enhancements, and hit apply and okay. This might cause, you

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know, your sound to stop working for a period of time. Don't turn back on the enhancements. Just restart the computer, and that should fix itself. The same goes for all the other devices. And you can also try that in the recording

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devices if you have any. Most of them won't have enhancements, but I have seen it happen before where they do. Another option is if you go to properties, sometimes it's in the advanced tab, and it'll be enablements. Turn it off there

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as well, uh, rather than just turning it off in the tab if it exists. And then the next thing that I'm going to go through before we get into kind of deeper stuff is going to be auto runs.

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I'm going to run auto runs as administrator. And this is basically going to allow us to disable a bunch of startup applications and disable all types of other things, extensions, stuff like that, stuff that we don't need on the

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computer to prevent it from starting up and running in the background. So the first thing that I'm going to start with is One Drive. I don't need this. And we're actually going to uninstall this in a little bit. I'm going to disable

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these. Don't need any of these. Um I'm going to disable all of the One Drive extensions. But again, these will be uninstalled when I actually uninstall One Drive. So I'm going to disable all of these. leave on the Nvidia control

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panel, but you can disable all of these. And then the Edge ones, you can disable that as well. Again, I'm going to disable even more Edge updating stuff, more One Drive stuff that will be uninstalled later. Um, this is more of

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the Microsoft like telemetry stuff. You can turn these off. It won't change anything. Same with the monitoring. And for some of these, it will fail. You can see it by the color. But, um, if they fail, don't worry about it. just keep

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going. The next one, if you have like an ASUS motherboard or a Gigabyte motherboard, a lot of the time they'll install like automatic software, I'm going to show you in the BIOS us actually disabling the automatic installation of that, but in this case,

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you can turn those off to stop them from happening on boot. I don't need these Intel platform manager services or the Microsoft Edge, but the rest of these you're going to want, including the NV display container and the Wii

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registration. That's for your activation of Windows. And then the rest of them are services. You're probably not going to want to touch those unless you actually know what you're doing. Go ahead and close auto runs. And then the

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next thing that we're going to want to do is open up the Paragon tweaking utility. Again, I'm only going to be using the free stuff in this. When you log in with Discord on this, in case anyone's worried about like telemetry,

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we don't actually capture anything. The only thing that we capture is your name. And besides that, we don't capture anything else. No IPs, no nothing. And the server is built to destroy all that information and not store it anywhere.

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That's just for like security reasons in case you're concerned about that. If you don't want to use the Paragon tweaking utility, that's okay. You just will miss out on a couple of performance details.

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There are some things that you can use like WPD, Windows privacy dashboard and replacement if you really don't want to use this, but for, you know, all of our customers, we're expecting that you're going to be totally fine with using the

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application and we're going to show you how to use it today. The first thing you're going to want to do is go to the system restore tab and create a restore point. You can learn more about why you

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should create that here. And if you have been a PTU user and you have many points, you'll see that we have a giveaway going on. So, please enter that. So, to create a restore point, we're going to create, you know, the

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four tweaks and add a tag uh tweaks for instance. and you can add whatever color you'd like and then create that restore point. If your restore points are disabled, this should reenable them, fix any errors, and then also still create

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the restore point. So now we have that restore point. We're going to head on over to the homepage. And the first thing that we're going to want to do is the disc cleanup. So go ahead and hit cleanup files.

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And then this little window is going to stay open. You can just leave that running in the background, but it says cleanup complete. Go ahead and hit got it. And the next thing that we're going to want to do is head on over to the

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resources tab. and we're going to start doing automations bottom to top. You're going to see a tutorial if this is your first time opening it where it'll show you these steps. Um, but because I already went through the tutorial,

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obviously that doesn't show up for me, so I'm going to be walking you through it right now. So, the system corruption check, you're going to want to run this first. Even if it's a fresh install, you generally still want to run it. If it's

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a fresh install, you're almost certainly not going to have any corruption. But after you install all your apps, install all your drivers, restart the computer a couple of times, sometimes corruption can happen during those steps. So, I'm going to run this and start system

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check, but also I'm going to run the DirectX and runtime installer at the same time. So, go ahead and hit start installation. Uh, these can both run at the same time. The runtime and DirectX installer is going to install C++

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redistributables, DirectX runtime, and .NET desktop runtime. This is going to uh pre-install all the prerequisites that you would need for any games that you're playing. Some games will have DLL errors or missing file errors or fail to launch for no apparent reason. And

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usually they auto install the redistributables themselves, but not all the time. And so this is going to install all of the redistributables for you and all the prerequisites for all those games so you never have any errors.

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All right, now that we're all done with that, we're going to have the system corruption check and runtime good. So we know that our games are not going to have any issues and that Windows is not corrupt. The next thing that we're going

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to want to move to is the driver automation. This is free, but the modded and uploaded performance driver is only the paid tier. So that's why you see modded and uploaded here. Um for the free tier, you will just get the regular

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driver. And this works for AMD and Nvidia. So um go ahead and hit begin automation. And on in my case, I'm on an Nvidia GPU. Uh so I'm going to walk through the steps after that. But at the

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end of this, we'll have some photos and maybe a quick write up in the description of what to do for AMD settings. There's a lot less than Nvidia. And then for the you can see here during the automation you will your

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display might flicker. Secondary monitors will turn off. Um and please do not move your mouse or keyboard. The automation should handle you moving your mouse and keyboard. But it's possible that it won't and your display is definitely going to flicker because the

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display driver is getting reinstalled and your secondary monitors will be off during the period of the driver not being there. So just give it some time.

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Um don't worry about your second monitor not being on. Go ahead and hit start automation.

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And then this is going to start the automation and you guys will see the process. This might bug out my OBS a little bit, but that's okay.

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In the next iteration of this, you guys won't get this pop-up. It'll automatically close itself, but in this case, I have to hit yes on the pop-up.

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Perfect. And now that the driver is done reinstalling, you'll see this pop-up for the shader cache must rebuild. Just go ahead and play your game normally for 2 hours after this guide. the shader cache will rebuild quickly, but during the

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rebuild, your shader cache not being there will cause some stuttering, lower FPS. That should resolve itself pretty quickly. Um, again, up to 2 hours of consistently playing. Usually, I say 3 to five full games and you should be

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good to go. So, hit I understand. And then you're going to see some instructions for the Nvidia driver. Go ahead and rightclick your desktop, go to show more options, Nvidia control panel.

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Hit agree and continue. Then once this is open, go to the adjust image settings with preview and select the use the advanced 3D image settings and hit apply. You'll see that here. And then tells you to go to your resolution. So

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go to change resolution. Make sure that it is set to the proper resolution and refresh rate. And then another thing that you can do is use Nvidia color setting full here for your colors. Hit apply. Sometimes this improves colors

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and dynamic range. In this case, it made the application a little bit too dark.

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So I'm going to set that back to limited. for most of your monitors that will look better, but in some situations the dynamic range becomes too much like on my cam link here. Um, and then go ahead and go to the adjust video color

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settings with the Nvidia settings advanced, set the dynamic range to full. Again, this can be the same problem, but in this case, it's good. And then the other thing that you can do is go to desktop, enable developer settings, go

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to manage GP performance counters, and allow access to all users. Once you have that, go ahead and hit yes on the pop-up. And then the manage 3D settings is actually gonna well actually is already done by the PTU. So go ahead and

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hit got it. Um the profile is already loaded. You can also load the profile again if you would like to in the Nvidia profile on the general tweaks page. But the manage 3D settings you'll see it should already be set um for for maximum

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performance all that. And then the next thing after the Nvidia and AMD driver reinstall is going to be actually tweaking the system. So the first thing that we're going to start with is the general tweaks page. I'm just going to hit apply all. Um for you

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guys, you can hit apply all. If you want to look at the warnings, you can. you can see what possible issues there could be um on laptops for instance, but you can hit apply all and then turn them off

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later. The turnoff does work. The toggles do work. And in your case, you're going to want to turn on the core power plan. There is the advanced power plans that you can turn on, either Edge or Apex, but in the free situation,

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you're going to want to turn this on. So, I'm going to hit apply all. And then it will tell you that you should restart your PC to make sure that all tweaks take effect. So, go ahead and hit got it

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on that. And then we're going to head on over to the debloating tab after that.

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to the debloating tab. If you're on a paid plan, you can hit the auto deplo again. We're going to be skipping that because this is a video tailored to the core plan. But like I said before, we're going to uninstall one drive. Uh you

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want to leave pawn.io. This is actually a dependency of the Paragon tweaking utility now for the latest temperature monitoring. So go ahead and just select one drive if you can uninstall one drive. Any other apps that you might not

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need and go ahead and hit uninstall and then you uninstall all. And you might have to go through the popups on those on the application itself to uninstall it. But then just go ahead and hit done once that's completed and head on over

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to the store tab. And then we can uninstall stuff that you won't need. For a lot of people, you're not going to need unless you're editing the AV1 video extension ABC unless you're watching AV1 encoded clips from OBS. Um but

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otherwise, if you don't know that you need it, then you probably don't. I'm going to uninstall these uninstall the cross um device experience. And I'm going to uninstall basically all these things I don't really need. Game Bar.

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You want to leave that on, otherwise you're going to get a pop-up every time you start your game. It's a little annoying, but just leave it. We've already disabled it. I'm going to disable these extensions again. Copilot.

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Don't need that. Bing, clip champ, news, sticky notes, teams, definitely teams, to-do, like a lot of these things we don't need. Outlook, phone, link, power automate, quick assist, all of these things. Um, solitaire, don't need that.

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I'm I'm going to uninstall the raw image extension as well. Start experience, you don't need these media extensions, you don't need this.

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The rest of these you can leave. So go ahead and uninstall and then uninstall again. Plus anything else that you think you don't need anymore that you installed at one point. Uninstall that as well. And then once this is all done,

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just go ahead and hit done. With the debloating page, you can head on over to the networking page. Uh here you can optimize your network, do a network reset, look at our exit lags partnership, and run a buffer bloat

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test. The optimize network is obviously going to optimize your network adapters, but this is a paid feature. Um, so I'm not going to run it in this case, but you can run that if you are on a paid

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plan. Next is going to be the advanced page. Of course, this is also only for paid users. So, if you have a paid plan, you can apply all, but again, for the purposes of this video, we're going to

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skip it. Services. Minimum is free. You can see what minimum might cause. You know, this is going to disable these things. Say for most users, it explains all the different steps. If you have a paid plan, you can see the differences.

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And then you can hit medium and you'll actually get a pop-up telling you what features are going to be disabled and then a confirm. So you can read through those, make sure you don't need them, and hit confirm. We're going to turn

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that on. Of course, you can turn these off again at any point, but again, turning that on. Then I'm going to go to the game profiles. You can find your game here. We have a ton of games, and

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we're adding even more games soon as you can see in the coming soon. But in this case, I'm going to be optimizing for Fortnite. That's the game that I play.

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And so I'm going to hit apply recommended. Well, first, if you are not on a fresh install, you can do clear cache. can sometimes improve performance quite drastically, especially for Fortnite. Other Epic Games games games clear cache can empty a lot of the

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random cache that the game builds up in settings-wise over time. So, clearing the cache will clear that up without actually deleting any of your game files or resetting anything. And then go ahead and hit the apply recommended setting.

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You can change these individually, but the apply recommended is going to apply our recommended performance settings.

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And then if you have a paid plan, you can check out the Nvidia profile, but if you don't have a paid plan like this video, then you you won't be able to click that button. it'll be disabled. As

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far as the app optimizer page, this can allow you to optimize any of your apps that you have in your system. You know, Microsoft Edge, Chrome, everything. And so, we're going to be adding even more to this soon, but the only one that

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you're going to be able to see on the free plan is going to be the Microsoft Edge optimization. So, I'm going to turn that one on. And then the rest of these only if you have a paid plan. And then

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BIOS, you guys won't have access to on the free plan. And then, like I said, the PTU points for our giveaway also for wallpapers. In case you interested in those, you can buy those there. But that is all that we're going to be using on

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the Paragon tweaking utility. One thing that you might want to check out is Windows Asscient, especially with our updates that are going to be coming soon. The Windows Ascension can improve performance by closing out applications.

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You can configure that and set this up for your applications. You know, add whatever applications you have are running installed. And this can close applications and help out Windows with some extra secret settings to improve performance while you're playing your

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game. This is meant to be like a you turn this on while you're playing and then turn it back off when you're done so that the settings that it changes.

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Like for instance, your search, you need this while you're using your regular computer. At least most of you do. But you don't need this while you're playing a game. So it can do stuff like that. Um and it can effectively make your gaming

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computer as gaming oriented as possible without affecting your day-to-day life. And so you can turn that on and then turn it off. But like I said, that's all that we're going to be doing with the Paragon tweaking utility. So, the next

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thing that we're going to want to do is go through drivers and chipset drivers.

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So, I'm going to open up the browser here, and I'm also going to click the Windows key and type in MS info and open up system information. You're going to see ROG strick C69i gaming Wi-Fi on the baseboard product. Go ahead and find

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your baseboard product and hit C. And then you can close the MS info and hit controlV up here. If you're on a pre-built system, this is not going to be nearly as reliable. Um, and so you can do this and I'm going to show you

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how to do this. But then if you don't have a motherboard that gives you easy access to something like this, especially on a pre-built OEM motherboard, then I'm going to show you a different method of getting your drivers. So the first thing, like I

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said, motherboard. I'm going to paste this and go to the ROG website. Sometimes you're going to have a variant of the different boards up in the top left here where you can choose 1.x and 1.0. In order to know what that means,

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you can open up system information and you can see uh in this case I have 4101.

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So, if this was 1.x BIOS or sometimes it's like here, baseboard version rev 1.xx. Sometimes it's going to be 1.0 and then 1.x, you can look at that and discern between 1.0 and 1.x. But in this case, I don't have any versions. Uh,

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just the motherboard itself. I'm going to go to the support tab. That's where you're going to want to go for the drivers. Go to the driver and tools.

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This is generally the same on all the different motherboards, just sometimes a different layout. Then select your operating system. Sometimes this doesn't load immediately like you can see in this case. So you have to click it again and then click Windows 11 again and then

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it it will load. So what we're looking for is we're looking for the LAN drivers. If you use Wi-Fi, the wireless drivers, if you are on AMD, you can get the chipset driver on Intel. There has been some So basically the chipset

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driver for AMD is going to fix some USB pulling inconsistencies on some Ryzen systems. It will reduce micro stutters, improve 1% and 0.1% lows. It can get a slight FPS improvement um somewhere in the realm of 3 to 5% especially on

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Windows 11 252. It'll give better thread scheduling and less spiking of the driver latency and some improvement for power management. For AMD systems, it is very important that you have the chipset driver, but on Intel systems, it's not

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nearly as important. There's long been debate about whether the chipset drivers for Intel are even beneficial. You know, it can improve some driver latency spikes. And on older motherboards, Z390 to Z590, they did show lowered input delay and did show a performance impact.

Speaker A

And so on those older motherboards, you probably do want your chipset driver on Intel. But on the latest versions of Windows 11 with the latest CPUs and latest chipsets, there's really not much of a difference. The blurb buster tests

Speaker A

are generally that there's no difference out there. It's like a 50/50. So you can try with the chipset driver, but usually it's just unnecessary overhead on Intel CPUs. On AMD CPUs, again, you're going to want that. For audio, if you plug

Speaker A

your headphones in via oxport, then you're going to want this. VGA, you'll almost never need this. The Windows update will give you this. And otherwise, this is just for onboard graphics. Bluetooth if you use Bluetooth. Thunderbolt driver. Again, if

Speaker A

you're going to use those Thunderbolt ports, and then the rest of these aren't really necessary. There's the Intel rapid storage technology driver, which you don't need. You can get the in or the Samsung SSD drivers to make sure

Speaker A

that your firmware is up to date, but after that, uninstall it. You just want to make sure that the Samsung NVME drivers are up to date if you have an NVME from Samsung because there has been some firmware issues that would cause

Speaker A

unnecessary decay of the drive. So in this case, you'd be able to see it up here. Samsung 980 Pro and Samsung 990 Pro. Those are the two that had firmware issues, I do believe. So you'd want to update the firmware on both of those.

Speaker A

But so for basically all these drivers, you can download them from the motherboard manufacturer. The other option is to copy this title and download the driver like this. Intel Ethernet adapter driver, find the adapter driver, hit view details, and

Speaker A

download the zip file. And that's what you would want to do for most of these rather than downloading them from here because they're not always up to date.

Speaker A

This is 2024. Intel has almost certainly come out with a 2026 version. I don't know. Yeah, here you go. 2026 and that driver was 2024. So, you generally don't want to rely on the ones from ASUS's website or the motherboard websites

Speaker A

because they're sometimes behind by quite a bit like in this case. But, you can use them if you need to. Uh, again, if you don't have the motherboard thing, this is where we're going to step into the nonmotherboard manufacturer you

Speaker A

don't know or it's an OEM and it's a little bit too difficult. The thing that you're going to want to do is, like I said, if you have an AMD CPU, which you can find by opening up task manager,

Speaker A

going to the performance, going to CPU, Intel or AMD, AMD, obviously always get the chipset driver. If you're on a 9000 series Intel, so you know, 9600, 9700, 9900 K, um, you're going to probably want to get it. And if it's any older

Speaker A

than that or smaller numbers than that, then you're probably going to want to get it. uh on the core gen. So when it's just like core 7, I think they call it now, core ultra 7 or whatever, those you

Speaker A

don't need the chipset driver on. And then you can close this. The way that we're going to find it for your networking drivers, which are going to be the most important, honestly, is by opening up device manager, going to the

Speaker A

network adapters drop down, and finding your Ethernet or Wi-Fi controller or both. Right clicking it, hitting properties, and then you can copy the name. You can look at the driver, see if you have one installed. Mine's 2022, not

Speaker A

2026 or 2024. And so you'll you'll see the name up here. I'm going to search for that manually. So, Intel uh Ethernet i225-V2 driver. And then you'll see you can click it here. You can find the drivers again, view details, and download that

Speaker A

package. So, I'm going to download this one. And then I'm also going to download the Wi-Fi one. So, that's going to be AX211.

Speaker A

Um so, Intel WiFi AX211 driver. And you'll see the list here. Drivers, view details, download, I accept. And then I'm going to open up the downloads page. Uh, for this one, for the Ethernet driver, I'm going to extract that. And

Speaker A

then there's the setup. I don't know if this will automatically install it. Very well might, I guess. Let's run it and find out. Yes. Okay, it does. And then hit install. That will install your Ethernet driver. Um, and then I'm going

Speaker A

to run the Wi-Fi driver one as well. Cool. Now that the driver is installed, it's saying that you need to um restart the computer. I'm not going to do that for right now. Um but we have the drivers now. So you saw the 2022 before.

Speaker A

Now you're going to see a 2025 driver in this case. Um and this is going to be a much better driver. A lot of the times you'll actually see a Microsoft driver before you install this. Those are terrible. You want to install the driver

Speaker A

for your Ethernet adapter. I recently saw a random issue with OBS NDI that was completely related to not having the Ethernet drivers installed. So, make sure that you install these. Uh, the first thing that we're going to want to

Speaker A

do inside of the properties, so make sure you open up properties for the Ethernet controller cuz we're actually going to set some Ethernet and Wi-Fi adapter settings is go to the power management and uncheck allow the computer to turn this off. Then go to

Speaker A

the advanced tab and go through these. If you don't have all these settings, that's totally fine. Just do the ones that you do have. So, I'm going to do flow control. Going to disable that.

Speaker A

Interrupt moderation rate. I'm going to set this to medium. Let's see what else do we have. This one's very bare bones.

Speaker A

Um, some people will have network speed issues after some of these tweaks. Uh, if that's the case, you can go to speed and duplex and set yours to full duplex on the highest number. So, 2.5 Gbits per second, full duplex. Choose the highest

Speaker A

full duplex option. And if your internet speed is at a number where there's only half duplex, then you can choose 2.5 Gbits per second, half duplex if that's the only one that exists. but it should always have a full duplex option. There

Speaker A

are a few more settings that I don't have here that I'm going to name off that you can disable anything that's related to energy efficient Ethernet, disable that. Anything um enable PME, disable that. Green Ethernet or Ethernet light or gigabit light, disable those.

Speaker A

Flow control, like we did, disable that. Interrupt moderation rate medium log link state event, you're going to want to disable that. Reduce speed on power down, disable that. And then, like I said, set the speed and duplex. Um I

Speaker A

don't have all the settings here, but you can listen to that list. and then check yours and there'll be a screenshot on the video as well that you can reference. Hit okay. We also have a tweet on our Twitter in case you want to

Speaker A

check that out that has all the settings there. And then I'm going to go to the Wi-Fi one as well. Go to properties.

Speaker A

Same thing. Power management, uncheck that. Go to the advanced tab. Make sure that the ABG wireless mode is set to the highest option. The NAC AX is also set to the highest option. Global BG scanning, if you have that, we don't

Speaker A

have that in this case. The global BG scan blocking, you're going to want set to always. MIM o power saving mode. Oh, here we go. You can go ahead and disable or in this case you can leave it on

Speaker A

default if you don't have any of the options, but if you have uh no SMPS, that's ideal. Oh, sorry. I'm actually on the wrong setting. That's why. In this case, sorry, no SMPS for the MIMO power save mode. Packet coalescing, disable

Speaker A

that for roaming aggressiveness, if you have that, you can set this to lowest. And then for throughput booster, if you have that, yeah, we have that. We can disable that. And then UASPD support, go ahead and disable that as well. Ultra

Speaker A

high band 6 GHz. If you have it, you can leave that on or enable it if it's not already. If you have 6 GHz Wi-Fi, it won't make a difference otherwise. And then, like I said, I mentioned all the

Speaker A

other settings by name. So, go ahead and hit okay. It's going to ask to restart the computer. I'm going to hit no for right now. And that's basically all the Ethernet settings. I am going to talk about some Ethernet and internet related

Speaker A

stuff before we go into BIOS and get finished up with the video. So, Ethernet, Wi-Fi is not great. even if your latency is as good as on Ethernet.

Speaker A

And the reason for that is because there's all types of interference. If you if somebody turns on a microwave or turns on something with high electromagnetic interference too close to the router, it will cause random spikes in latency that sometimes you

Speaker A

won't even see in your game. And that's related to buffer bloat, which you can test in our PTU application. Uh so always do Ethernet when you can, even if the ping looks the same. And there's different CAT tiers uh for Ethernet

Speaker A

cables. If you have an really old Ethernet cable or one that's like busted up really bad, you probably want to replace your Ethernet cable. There's a lot of cat tiers. People like to get confused. Realistically, it's just going

Speaker A

to be basing your internet speed. Cat 5A is decent for, you know, under 100 m at a gigabit per second or so. And at shorter distances, it can even do 2.5 Gbits per second. But Cat 5A is plenty

Speaker A

for 1 Gbit per second up to 100 meters. That's all the standards go to 100 mters. You can get Cat 6 if you need a little bit faster. If under, you know, 40 m, I think it is, you can do up to 10

Speaker A

Gbit per second. I'm using Cat 6A uh for 2 Gbits per second at about 100 mters.

Speaker A

Cat 6A can do, I believe, 10 Gbits per second up to 100 m. And so, you can really test your Ethernet cables, make sure that they're decent and running good. Uh, but if it's an old Ethernet cable, you should replace that. And

Speaker A

don't worry too much about the CAT tiers. Like I said, 1 Gbit per second.

Speaker A

All you really need is CAT 5A. You can do Cat 6 to be safe. Cat 6A is for higher speeds like 2.5 Gbit per second and then you can go for a Cat 7 or a Cat 8 cable. It won't make a difference. A

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lot of people talk about how Cat 8 and Cat 7 have different connectors. That's true, but the connectors are backwards compatible. So on both a Cat 7 and Cat 8 port, you can put in a Cat 6 cable and

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vice versa. So don't worry about any type of thing like that. If you want to buy Cat 7 or Cat 8, you can. I personally run actually I think it's Cat 7 that I'm running now, including Cat 7

Speaker A

ports just for future proofing. But there's no real necessity. Those are generally the standards that you want to go off of. If you can't run Ethernet directly from your router, then you probably want to use a Mocha adapter,

Speaker A

which is basically using coax in one room to another room. And you can use the coax cables to connect the Ethernet cables. You'll have to connect the coax cables in where the coax cables actually meet each other in like a connection box

Speaker A

of some kind. And then you're going to also have to connect that Mocha adapter to Ethernet directly to the router. So the router has to be in the same spot as where all the coax cables are split. If

Speaker A

you know what you're doing, you can get a Mocha adapter. That's the best second to Ethernet. And then besides that, there's things like Ethernet over power/ powerline adapters. Those are good, but they're really dependent on a ton of

Speaker A

factors, especially like how new or old your house wiring is. Um, comparison to Wi-Fi, sometimes worse or better.

Speaker A

Usually buffer blow and ping is a little bit better, but download speeds are significantly worse. They're pretty bad, but they're sometimes better than Wi-Fi.

Speaker A

So, it's at least at least worth a test when you can always return them on Amazon. And then longer Ethernet cables, ideally, like if your router's in another room, ideally you can get these little cable run things that you can run

Speaker A

the Ethernet cables through to get Ethernet to your computer directly from your router without having to use these adapters. But again, Mocha adapter is preferred. You can use switches if you're running out of Ethernet ports on your router. Those are generally pretty

Speaker A

cheap that allow you to connect multiple things to one Ethernet port with really significantly better differences in latency. I mean almost none slash basically exactly none. Um whereas Wi-Fi is going to be way worse. So use a switch over Wi-Fi. And then if you're

Speaker A

using Ethernet and you're plugging it into an extender that is connected on Wi-Fi, you are not on Ethernet. Just because a computer shows Ethernet doesn't mean you're on Ethernet. Using an extender and plugging your computer in via the extender as Ethernet is just

Speaker A

as bad as using Wi-Fi. Sometimes the extenders, if it's a really good one, is going to have a better network adapter than your computer or you don't have Wi-Fi on your computer and this is your only option. Then using an extender with

Speaker A

Ethernet is fine, but don't use it as a replacement to Ethernet because it is nowhere. It's it's not any better than Wi-Fi unless you have a really terrible Wi-Fi card in your computer and a really good extender because you're literally

Speaker A

just plugging your computer into a Wi-Fi receiver. So, same same. Just wanted to go through that to explain all Ethernet and how you can get better ping, buffer bloat, all that. Um, and then the drivers and everything. So, now we're

Speaker A

going to head on over to the BIOS so that I can show you guys that and then we're going to finish up there. So, go ahead and click your Windows key, type in cmd, run as administrator. This is

Speaker A

one method doing shutdown/r/firmware-t. You can hit enter and then if it says that it could not be entered, just click your up arrow to do it again. Hit enter and it will restart into BIOS. Another option that I'm going to walk you

Speaker A

through is clicking the Windows key, power icon, hold shift on your keyboard, and press restart. This is going to take us to the extra options. This one takes a little bit longer, but that's fine.

Speaker A

Once we're in here, go to the troubleshoot section, go to UFI firmware settings, and hit restart. All right, now that we're in BIOS, I'm going to show you some quick BIOS settings that we can do for better performance. Um,

Speaker A

the first place that we're going to want to start is the tool tab. On an ASUS motherboard, at least you can generally follow this along. On ASUS, there's a search button for some of the settings that I'm going to mention that we can

Speaker A

that you can use if you're unable to follow along because the menus don't match perfectly. And then same for AMD systems cuz I don't have an AMD system.

Speaker A

We'll try to get some screenshots, but you can also use a search tool. A lot of the motherboards have a search tool now and otherwise you can kind of scan through the settings and find the similar settings. Don't be scared to

Speaker A

look around. Just don't change any options. And the fastest way to look around is to use your keyboard arrow keys and enter and escape. This is the easiest way to do it. So now we're in a Asus motherboard. So the first thing

Speaker A

that we're going to want to do is go to the tool tab. Like I said, go to ASUS Armory Crate and disable this. don't need armor create and this is just a virus honestly. Go to my ASUS and

Speaker A

disable this if it's enabled and then you can hit escape and go to the boot tab. First thing CSM really don't change this based on what your setting is. If you're installing Windows fresh off of a USB and you're doing BIOS settings first

Speaker A

disable CSM. There's no reason to have it unless you're running Linux or something. Secure boot. Go in here. Set the OS type to Windows UFI mode and secure boot mode to custom. Ideally, you would have secure boot off. Secure boot

Speaker A

off is better for performance, but basically all of the anti-ches nowadays require secure boot to be on. Fortnite, Valerant, COD, basically all of them have recently started doing secure boot or have had it for a long time. So, you

Speaker A

probably want secure boot on. There's there's no downside. There is a slight performance hit if you're playing a game that doesn't need this, but most games nowadays do. Hit escape, go to the boot configuration, and disable fast boot.

Speaker A

Number one most important thing probably in BIOS outside of XMPP. Hit escape. And then we're going back to the boot tab.

Speaker A

So after the boot tab, we can head on over to the advanced tab. The first thing that we're going to want to start with is the CPU configuration. You can scroll down. There are some things that you can disable in here. Like we're

Speaker A

going to want to disable if you are only playing games and you don't need efficiency cores for any reason, you can turn this off to zero efficiency cores and turn off hyperthreading. In certain CPU based games, this is going to

Speaker A

provide better performance. So you can turn off hyperthreading and turn off the efficiency cores. In some games, it's going to hurt performance. FPS is not necessarily input delay. So like sometimes you know turning off hyper threading might hit your FPS a tiny bit

Speaker A

but your input delay is significantly better. So test it how it feels not only the numbers that you see on the screen and if you are like streaming on a single PC setup you should probably have both of these on. Then the next thing is

Speaker A

going to be for CPU power management control. Like you can disable Intel speed shift technology. Uh this is going to let your CPU boost more frequently and not drop to as slow of a boost clock. This sometimes will help like

Speaker A

sleep states immediately jumping into high performance games. If you just load into a lobby and you need performance immediately or you alt tab or something, sometimes speed shift can cause issues and even crashes in some situations if your CPU is, you know, unreliable. So, I

Speaker A

like to turn off speed shift. Uh I like to turn off CPU C states completely.

Speaker A

CPUC states basically the same issue that I just described before, but also CPU C states have shown a input delay difference even not in that situation, especially on laptops. So go ahead and disable CPU C states and disable

Speaker A

enhanced C states if you have that and hit okay. Now we can hit escape out of there and hit escape out of the CPU configuration. And there's a couple of other settings that we can mess with in here. You know, we can go to trusted

Speaker A

computing is another one. Security device support. You're going to want this enabled for all the anti-cheets.

Speaker A

Like I said, if you're on Windows 11, secure boot and TPM, trusted computing are required for it to run unless you used Rufus to remove those requirements.

Speaker A

I think that you can disable them now and boot into Windows after it's already been installed and it's fine. But turning this off might help performance a little bit, but like I said, it's still going to cause issues with

Speaker A

antiche. So, you need this on nowadays. You can go to USB configuration and turn off XHCI handoff. Don't need that. You can go to APM. Don't need anything in there. Onboard devices configuration.

Speaker A

Uh, not really any settings to do in here. A lot of people like to change uh some of these PCI like subsystem settings. Um, you're going to want probably resize bar on as long as your GPU supports it. If you get a black

Speaker A

screen, you're going to have to reset CMOS. It's not worth changing this if you don't know what you're doing. Same with about 4G decoding. And there's some other settings like if you can find them or want to search for them, you can do

Speaker A

PCI Express, native power management. They're always hidden in random settings depending on the motherboard. So you can do PCI Express, native, and you'll see native power management. Um, this one you're going to want to disable this. Uh, hit okay

Speaker A

or sorry, remove the search now. reset that. Um, ASPM, disable that. Some like you can set boot performance mode to uh max non-turbo performance. And there are some other ones like C1E. If it wasn't part of enhanced seates, you

Speaker A

can search up C1E. In this case, I don't have it. It was actually called enhanced seates. Um, that's one that you'd want to turn off. you'd want to turn off like R. If you have any RGB and you don't

Speaker A

want it, then you can disable that. There's no RGB, but like um Windows dynamic lighting, don't need that on.

Speaker A

You can hit escape. Uh I believe that the that the LEDs or something is maybe in boot configuration. There's LEDs in here. There's other places where LEDs can be set. So, you can turn those off.

Speaker A

You know, CPU temperature LED switch. You can leave that on those ones. But like for actual like LEDs that are built on your motherboard or whatever, you can turn those off. um fan speeds. You can go into the MI monitor and set your fan

Speaker A

speed curves. Uh you can manually set them. You can even use the Q fan configuration which is going to or sorry the Q fan tuning which will automatically set some of them. You can use AI cooling. You can set these to um

Speaker A

well you can set these to silent turbo full speed manual. These don't really make a difference. Your CPU should handle itself pretty well, but a lot of people like to set their fan modes manually. So you can do that. And

Speaker A

besides that, there's not a lot of things that are going to happen in the rest of these settings. Those are the biggest performance hitting ones. So then you're going to want to head on over to the AI tweaker tab and go to the

Speaker A

AI overclock tuner. And this is the most important one and all of BIOS is the most important. Set your XMPP. XMPP1 2 and tweaked are a little bit different and it depends on the DRAM manufacturer.

Speaker A

In my case, XMPP tweaked is the best one and usually XMPP tweaked is best. On ASUS motherboards, I believe that XMPP tweaked is what a what ASUS has taken your RAM kit and then personally set it themselves along with the RAM kit.

Speaker A

XMPP1, as far as I understand, is what the motherboard manufacturer tested the RAM at in their setup. And then XMPP2 is the XMPP written on the DRAM sticks themselves. I'm going to choose XMPP tweaked because for my dims, that's the

Speaker A

best one. You can try XMPP1 first, and then you can try XMPP2 and tweaked uh and see which one is going to give you the best numbers. But like you can see it right here, even if you just go

Speaker A

through it, like you'll see different numbers in some situations. I believe mine are all the same. XMPP tweaked is what I'm going to run in this case. You can play around with that and even do manual overclocks here. Of course,

Speaker A

there's ASUS multi-core enhancement. Ideally, you have this on disable enforce all limits. You can set this to enable remove all limits at certain ones or auto on 13th and 14th gen CPUs and even 12th gen CPUs. There was an issue

Speaker A

with voltages. They were sending too much voltages to those CPUs. And so, you're going to want to keep like if you're not on a latest BIOS version, ideally you actually update your BIOS version if you're on an older one. But

Speaker A

if you don't know, then go check your motherboard manufacturer website like where we were at and update your BIOS.

Speaker A

But if you're too scared to do that, you can come into the BIOS. Um, you won't have these settings for Intel default or anything like that and the performance, but you can go down to the internal CPU power management and you can set some of

Speaker A

these settings yourself. So like you can set the power limits to what they need to be. Uh we'll have some screenshots up on the screen of what the different ones for the different CPUs should be, but in general for the 13th like 900K and 14

Speaker A

900K, the uh IC max will be disabled for the unlimited. And then for your power limits, you'll have to set like short duration power limits, long duration power limits, um and the current limit max. And that should be it. Sometimes you'll have

Speaker A

to play with the cache ratios and CPU. You can also do some of these um VRM core voltage, your core voltage itself.

Speaker A

You can adjust your CPU voltages for an undervolt. That's always something to consider to improve temperatures. If your temperatures are poor and you don't feel like buying a new cooler, then you can adjust your voltages and wattages to

Speaker A

find out what the minimum voltage and wattage is that you can maintain turbo boost on your CPU while reducing the amount of power that your CPU draws cuz your motherboard's okay at it, but it's not perfect um and your CPU. But setting

Speaker A

these can sometimes help improve temperatures without decreasing performance if you have a poor cooler and you can't upgrade your cooler for whatever reason. Uh, but like I said, we'll have some screenshots up on the screen for the different types of power

Speaker A

limits that you're going to want to set in these settings for uh the 12th, 13th, and 14th gen CPUs in order to fix the instability. And what the instability will show up as is the CPU like the PC

Speaker A

will crash or you'll get horrible stutters or horrible FPS randomly. Um, usually it's like PC crashing once it gets bad enough and once it reaches an instable level, it's basically cooked.

Speaker A

The CPU is ruined. Like once it's permanently unstable. So sometimes you'll have to reduce turbo boost and stuff like that. I had a CPU go bad on me because of that. They extended the voltage or they extended the warranty

Speaker A

for those CPUs. So you can choose an extended or you can sometimes get an RMA replacement if you bought it within like the last 3 years. I think they extended the warranty for affected chips. Uh but at this point it's wellnown. So just

Speaker A

make sure that you're on the updated BIOS to prevent further voltage damage. It's not just setting the wattage and voltage maxes. there is more to it in like the actual motherboard code. So, try to update your BIOS, but you can set

Speaker A

these power limits like I said, and that can sometimes help stability from worsening. But once you're at the unstable level, sometimes it's just too late and your CPU is going to be unstable no matter what, in which case

Speaker A

you have to turn off turbo boost and your CPU performance just becomes terrible. But that's basically everything as far as voltages go. That's just something that I wanted to explain.

Speaker A

Uh for AMD, we're going to have a list of things up on the screen and in the description that you can read to figure out what settings you should disable.

Speaker A

Again, it's going to be things like seastate control, spread spectrum, SMT mode, expo, um, and DS, DOCP is the version of XMP that's on that's on AMD.

Speaker A

So, DOCP or EXPO, and sometimes it's called AXMP, and rarely is it ever called XMPP. Any ASPM, disable that.

Speaker A

SOC/core overclock mode enabled. Uh, power supply idle control and typical current idle. You're going to want like PCIe power management features disabled.

Speaker A

Streaming stores control disabled RGB again. And then you can do things like fan speeds. It can always disable the armory crate. The gigabyte software that's enabled in here. MSI if it's in there. Gigabyte utilities downloader I think it's called MSI driver utility

Speaker A

installer. And then all the ASUS stuff. Like I said in some of the later ASUS motherboards there is somewhere in here.

Speaker A

I think it's download and install ASUS driverhub or autoinstall ASUS utilities. Turn that off. Yeah. Basically we'll we'll have a list but those are all the settings that you're going to want to touch. And then like I said, secure boot

Speaker A

TPM, security device support, MMU, virtualization, those kinds of things you used to be able to turn off and want to turn off, but nowadays a lot of the time they're used for anti-cheats, especially virtualization VT-D. A lot of

Speaker A

people turn those off still. SVM, most people still turn those off, but they're starting to be used for anti-che uh to prevent people from doing all type all types of methods for cheating. And so a lot of those settings that you used to

Speaker A

be able to turn off, you can't anymore, and that's why we didn't touch them in this video. But that's basically it.

Speaker A

That's going to be a full tweak guide for your entire Windows operating system. That is all of Windows. That's all of the game launcher browser settings. That's the PTU for the basic settings, drivers, driver settings, and even BIOS for you guys. Um, once you're

Speaker A

done with this, you can always go and set a user profile. Like you can save a user profile to test different settings and voltages for your CPU. And then go ahead and go to the exit tab and save

Speaker A

changes and reset and hit enter on that. That is going to bring back to Windows.

Speaker A

And if you have any issues booting, then you can look up how to do a CMOS reset on your motherboard. Sometimes there's a switch button in the back of the motherboard that you can click.

Speaker A

Sometimes it's a little switch you have to hit on the motherboard with a screwdriver. And sometimes you have to unplug the PC, take out the little CMOS battery, wait 5 minutes, and then put it back in, plug it in, and turn back on

Speaker A

the computer. That will reset CMOS to get your video back. Usually, that's always going to be caused by either the resize bar that I was telling you about or the XMPP setting. So, just take a look at that and figure out, you know,

Speaker A

what the situation is. You can avoid those if you want to, but XMPP, you're almost always going to want to at least try. Almost everybody will have no problem turning on XMPP. It's pretty rare you're going to have any problems,

Speaker A

especially nowadays. But that's basically everything. I think that's all the disclaimers that I could possibly put out for you guys. Every last bit of performance that we were going to squeeze out of your system. So, let us know in the comments what you think of

Speaker A

the guide and whether or not you guys liked it. This is definitely one of our more in-depth and longer guides. It's explaining everything you can do on the computer. And if you want to squeeze a little bit of performance that's left,

Speaker A

go ahead and get the Apex plan for the PTU. Run the BIOS optimization in there and the other Apex tweaks uh included the modded driver and let those install and let us know what you guys think in the comments below. Like I said,

Speaker A

subscribe and hit the notification button to see future guides from us, especially shorter ones uh and per game tailored, but this is for your entire computer. You guys wanted it, so hope that helps. Have a good day.

Topics:Windows optimizationgaming PC tweaksParagon TweaksBIOS settingsgame performancedisable Windows Game Barmouse accelerationstartup appsprivacy settingshardware GPU scheduling

Frequently Asked Questions

Why should I switch to a local account before optimizing Windows for gaming?

Switching to a local account prevents issues with PIN or password errors that can occur after applying certain system tweaks. It is recommended to do all optimizations before setting a password or PIN.

Is it better to use Windows Game Bar or Nvidia Shadow Play for recording gameplay?

The video recommends turning off Windows Game Bar and using Nvidia Shadow Play or AMD's equivalent instead, as Game Bar can negatively impact gaming performance.

Should I enable hardware accelerated GPU scheduling for better gaming performance?

Hardware accelerated GPU scheduling showed mixed results in tests. It may help some users but generally is recommended to be turned off for consistent performance.

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